Two reasons I am replying to my own message:
1: To cross post to alt.trucks.chevy
2: I also forgot to mention: How hard is it to put the doors back on. AND
figure I'd like to do this as a 1 person job.
And again.... I'd assume that it's legal to have no doors in NH - but the
mirrors are on the door. Do I have to have those mirrors, can I have no
mirrors, or do I have to put mirrors on in the meanst while? I've notice
that CJ's have the mirrors mounted to the body - but that doesn't
necessarily mean you *need* mirrors?
Taking the doors off will entail:
Removing the door panels, then removing every wire from it's retaining clip,
noting where it is routed. So that when you reinstall it, the window won't
tear it on it's way up or down.
You'll have to unplug the wire from the power window motor, lock servo and
mirror, and follow the above directions. then snake the wires out of the
hole in front of the door, and remove the grommet.
Get a tire crayon, or a good permanent marker that will contrast against the
color of your truck, then trace around the hinges (This doesn't absolve you
of adjusting the doors when you put them back on!)
Get a floor jack that will go up high enough, get foam padding and put it on
the jack saddle. Place the jack about a little off center towards the front
of the door, it's a little heavier at the front. Start removing the bolts,
and pray like a Mo-Fo that it doesn't tilt in either direction and drop to
To answer your mirror question: Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards
specify that: "There shall be at least a mirror on the driver's side
outside, in some configuration!"
Two wires to:
The lock Servo
The power window motor
The speaker (If so equipped)
6- To the power mirror
4- To the power window switch
2- To the power lock switch
6- To the power mirror switch
The power mirror wires come out of the door, because only the power feed
comes into the grommet and boot.
All in all, I think you can do it, but I'm sure you'll need someone to hold
the door, and you'll have to fine tune the adjustment on the door after
bolting it back on.
A word to the wise: Leave the hinges on the truck, then there will be less
adjusting to do! and the bolts on the hinge to pillar are a bit tough to get
to, unless you have universal sockets.
I was more thinking about the # of wires going through the door jam. I
wasn't very specific though... So do all those go through the grommit?
The only reason I ask about the wires is because they make plates that have
4 contacts. You put one on each side of the door jamb, and they connect when
the door is closed (and disconnect when it's open). But then there are no
wires to disconnect if I were to do this often. However, the plates are
pretty large and if I were to make provisions for all of the (potential) 24
wires that would be 6 plates - per door - (maybe 2 fewer wires on the
passenger side door because only 1 window switch, still the same # of
plates). Anyway you slice it - 6 of these plates (I think there about 3"
tall) would be hard to fit....
I wonder if anyone has ever made it as easy to do as it is on a jeep.....
Thanks for the help.
I wouldn't trust those plates!
You have taken a flexible connector, and turned it into a moving part. Many
vehicles with inoperative door lights, power window switches and license
plate lights. Have some variant of the plates you are describing, a very
unreliable set up.
Alternatively, look for a multi connector plug, or several different shaped
plugs, so that you can not mix up the plugs on reassembly. If you choose to
remove the doors regularly.
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