1999 Chevy Tahoe 4X4

My security light stays on and sometimes i have trouble starting the engine. The motor turns over fine and seems to not get fuel. After a few minutes or sometimes and hour or so the engine will start. I
changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump seems to be operating fine. Does anyone think that I may have and electrical problem with a wire harness.
tyreboy
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Does anyone think this could be the passlock security system?
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I have a 2000 Chevy Tahoe with a remote starter installed. The security light will come on at times. The truck will not start, turns over fine. Wait exactly 5 mins and starts right up. Talked to the people who installed remote starter system, seems they have to cut a wire to bypass the passlock system. The passlock system in theses vehicles are very touchy to different resistance and cause the passlock system to be activated this will disable the vehicle from starting. The remote starter people replaced the module to the remote starter this has fixed the problem in my truck. So if you don't have a remote starter I'd check with the dealer on the passlock system.

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GW I think your right. A buddy has two customers that keep getting the same trouble code from 2 different GM's and the one thing in common is they both have the same remote start setup. It was something to do with not detecting the chip in the key because it wasn't there. If needed I can ask him for full details.
G.W. wrote:

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I had a similar problem a few years back in my 99 Tahoe. Started up, drove five feet into the middle of the road and died. Started fine an hour later. Checked the voltage on the junk WallyMart battery and saw the voltage was a little low, so I broke down and replaced it with an Optima Red Top. Not a single problem since.
If that hadn't worked, it was beginning to make sense to bypass the passlock system. There's a couple companies that sell modules to do this at maybe $40 a pop? that are typically used for remote starter installs.
I think the later year Passlock systems, not positive on the generation number, didn't use the a resistor embedded in the key. It's working the same way as those older systems, but it just checks for resistance in another way. Maybe just with any key? That would make sense if only for the fact that it's just trying to keep people from hotwiring it.
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I worked on car like one time..... It just stopped running randomly. Everything checked out. Car had been in the shop a few times with different people looking at it. Hard to find the problem when it runs fine.
Anyway I drove it... I tested it.... I did everything I knew to do... (back in the 80's) so... I check the battery...when I'm checking out the battery cables...I don't notice anything wrong just on appearance...then I start to disconnect one of the cables from the battery...that's when I see what the problem is... The battery somehow had a complete separation of the threaded insert where the side-post battery cables connect. The stud or bolt was still in place but you could turn the bolt 360 degrees....and the whole "lug" in the battery would turn as well. Replaced battery and end of problem. Apparently the battery cable had a good connection at least part of the time and I guess vibration would cause slight movement, just enough to loose battery connection and the car would eventually quit running. Weird deal.
On 6 Mar 2006 06:15:14 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Elbert snipped-for-privacy@me.com
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