2000 Silverado AC

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Hi all,
I bought a used 2000 Silverado and the AC has never worked. When i try turnning on the AC nothing happens (no light nothing), I tried hooking up power directly from the battery to the AC and the clutch does
try to engage but it stalls out the truck...
I was wondering if this means the AC compresson is done seized or just not enough refrigerant?
Someone told me that the AC might not be able to be turned on because the refrigerant is empty..
I just need a few ideas before going to the garage.
Thanks
nevlis
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2000 Silverado AC Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Mon, May 30, 2005, 1:33pm (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@removesilven.canada.com (nevlis) Hi all, I bought a used 2000 Silverado and the AC has never worked. When i try turnning on the AC nothing happens (no light nothing), I tried hooking up power directly from the battery to the AC and the clutch does try to engage but it stalls out the truck... I was wondering if this means the AC compresson is done seized or just not enough refrigerant? Someone told me that the AC might not be able to be turned on because the refrigerant is empty.. I just need a few ideas before going to the garage. Thanks nevlis
If it detects low or high pressure the clutch will not come on....Disconnect the cycling switch from your dryer..Jump the two wires your compressor will come on if it has power...Have you even hooked up some gauges to it?It would tell you right away if you had any charge in the system....Not really enough information for a poper diagnosis..But you can turn on the compressor by jumping the switch even if there is no charge in it...As long as it has power...Could be any thing bad cycling switch ,,AC relay,Compressor,low charge due to leakage,High pressure due to blockage,A shorted control head.. But like i said not enough info.... S Cook.
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Steve Cook) wrote in (nevlis)

Hi Thanks for the reply,
I did not hook any guages at all to it. The only thing I did so far was I tried jumping the wires directly without disconnecting the cycling switch, the clutch did try and engage because it stalled out the truck.
Would stalling out the truck be normal with the jumping procedure I just mentioned?
I am just trying to find out a little info before going to the garage.
Thanks
nevlis
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You must need a new compressor if it stalls the truck when you jump it. It shouldn't stall the truck, period.
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Agreed. H
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Re: 2000 Silverado AC Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Mon, May 30, 2005, 8:50pm From: snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Hairy)
You must need a new compressor if it stalls the truck when you jump it. It shouldn't stall the truck, period. Agreed. H
He didnt jump it he indused power....Not the same thing... S Cook
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From his description, it's hard to tell exactly what he did.
"I tried hooking up power directly from the battery to the AC"
"I tried jumping the wires directly without disconnecting the cycling switch"
It all depends on what he did and how he did it. H
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unless he had an inductor coil in the circuit somewhere, he did NOT induce power.
Explain the difference, as you see it?
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apologies here, I see where you guys are going with this. Have learned a few things in this thread!
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Re: 2000 Silverado AC Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Mon, May 30, 2005, 6:50pm (CDT+1) From: snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (RobinAndrePont) You must need a new compressor if it stalls the truck when you jump it. It shouldn't stall the truck, period.
Not true...Now do you have a manual or a automatic HVAC system.?Also you need to jump your cycling switch from terminal to terminal ...Not your high pressure switch considering the said he induced voltage to the switch I believe it has a 5volt refference sending 12 volts through it would for sure stall the engine when it detects high voltage like that..This system dont run power off of a high pressure switch but the cycling switch the high pressure switch is a reference sensor for the PCM...Which will make it stall I done know how many times Ive seen it shorted to power inducing too much voltage and stalling...The easiest way insted of just changing parts you dont know are bad ...Is to jump your cycling switch see then if the clutch comes on...If it does does it get cold? If it dont see if you have power from the fuse box to your cycling switch....If it does get cold and works normally..Replace your cycling switch....By the way does your switch have a brown band around it?????? If it does there is a updated switch for it ....There is a TSB for the switch... S Cook
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Steve Cook) wrote in (RobinAndrePont)

My switch does not have a brown ban all it has is a snowflake
Thanks
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ok, I think I see what you are getting at now. Please ignore previous 8)
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Robin AndrePont wrote:

engine when AC is called for. If the computer is not seeing that AC is being requested, no enrichment would occur. Forcing the clutch on at this time with no extra gas could stall the motor.
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Ok guys thanks for all the replys... I just want to note that I am in no way a mechanic of any type.
All I did was take two wires one from the positive side of the battery and one to the negative side and touched them to the two wire plug found at the top of my AC compressor... I believe one wire was black the other green. At that point the truck stalled.
Thanks nevlis
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"nevlis" wrote:

Find you a friend or a trust worth mech that can work on A/Cs and do not waste time (or money) with diagnosis and have them replace the compressor, the expansion valve/orifice (because it has a screen that can be trashed full from a compressor failure) and the receiver/dryer assembly (because you should always replace them with a compressor change). Add correct amount of oil (parts will come with instructions to the effect for mechs) and vacum down system and install R134a and you should be as good as new.
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Re: Re: 2000 Silverado AC Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Mon, Jun 6, 2005, 6:38am (CDT+1) From: snipped-for-privacy@AutoForumz.com (SnoMan) "nevlis" wrote: All I did was take two wires one from the positive side of the battery and one to the negative side and touched them to the two wire plug found at the top of my AC compressor... I believe one wire was black the other green. At that point the truck stalled. Thanks nevlis Find you a friend or a trust worth mech that can work on A/C's and do not waste time (or money) with diagnosis and have them replace the compressor, the expansion valve/orifice (because it has a screen that can be trashed full from a compressor failure) and the receiver/dryer assembly (because you should always replace them with a compressor change). Add correct amount of oil (parts will come with instructions to the effect for mechs) and vacum down system and install R134a and you should be as good as new.
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I did exactly this on my 89 S10 Blazer. 4.3, 4X4, 700R4.
Afterwards, the compressor made a rattling noise. Nothing is loose, all tensioners on the engine are in good shape.
Compressor came with a clutch on it, and a warranty. Warranted it out, replaced it. Same damn thing.
Any ideas?
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BTW- added GM-type PAG oil each time, directly to the compressor, first thing. also, the noise goes away when I turn the AC off. When I turn it on from a cold start, it's quite the first couple seconds, then starts making noise.
With a full charge of 134a <reading 35 PSI while compressor runs, at 80deg ambient temp>, it blows 46 degree air.
Any more info you need, let me know. Much appreciated!
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"burntkat" wrote:

Maybe in some trucks but it can be for 25 to 50 PSI depending on tempature and humidity because humidity can have a BIG effect on outlet temp and pressure. (under low humidity the air will be colder and pressure lower to and under high humidity, air will be warmer and pressure a lot higher too so one day it might be 35psi and 46 and another day 55 and 45PSI. (may truck runs 25 to 30 PSI on lower 80s with some humidity and my wifes 20 to 25 PSI and hers is cold too) It is not set in stone and you have to look at high and low side to really judge how it is working in a specific tempature and humidty.
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ok, now that I'm thoroughly confused..... ;)
I have a testing/charging manifold. Tell me what I need to look for on both sides of the system?
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