2002 Chevy 2500HD: stalling problem...any advice?

Hello,
About a week ago I bought a used 2002 2500HD crew cab w/ 8.1L gas motor with 54K miles on it. Normally it seems to run very well, but in the past two or three days it has stalled out or hesitated on me 3
or 4 times. Once was while pulling away from a toll booth...stepped on the gas and the truck lurched forward and then hesitated, and the battery light even came on, but the vehicle recovered after a second and drove away fine.
The next time was while at idle in traffic...it stalled out, I restarted it, it ran rough for a few seconds, then ran fine. Then a little later on, while driving at about 30 or so mph, with my foot on the gas, it kept intermittently running rough then running fine. I'm not sure, but the battery light may have been coming on when it did this.
I don't even know where to start with this vehicle. I used to drive a 73 jeep, then drove a mercedes diesel. This is the newest auto I've owned, and unlike the jeep, I have no idea where to start. I thought perhaps it was bad fuel, or perhaps water in it, so I went and filled up and put some gas line antifreeze in it at the advice of a friend. This was before the stall out at idle, which happened today. This evening I went and got a fuel filter, thinking that could be the problem, but I haven't replaced it yet.
I'm familiar with using a haynes manual to fix some of the basics, but Haynes hasn't published one for this vehicle yet. I don't want to shell out $120 for the service manual just to replace the lousy fuel filter...I don't even know if that would fix it. Where should I start? Should I bite the bullet and take it to the dealership? I fear they are going to shrug their shoulders and say they can't find anything wrong with it, and then I'll be stuck with this vehicle that stalls out 4 or 5 times a week.
Thanks for any help,
Krazygl00
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----- Original Message -----
Newsgroups: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2003 5:25 PM Subject: Re: 99 Yukon Electrical cut-out?

that
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Krazygl00 wrote:

I hear you... I'm not very dealer friendly either, after a few poor experiences with obvious problems to some old vehicles of mine.
The fuel filter wouldn't hurt - it's a rather easy 30 minute job. A little messy, that's for sure. You don't really need a manual to do it.
My old '02 5.3 seemed to idle at 550 almost all the time. My '04 6.0 seems to like to drop the idle as much as possible that still allows the engine to run mildly well. I'll be at a stop light and I'll feel the truck start to shudder a bit. I'll look down at 450rpm on the tach. It'll usually catch right back up, and sit around 500rpm. Some days its happy at 500, others closer to 600.
I believe the battery light is just a byproduct of the poor idling/ running condition. The alternator can't supply enough voltate at lower rpm's (lower than 400 or so), so the battery light gets tripped.
Unfortunately, this might have to be a dealer call. They should have the technology to go in and monitor all of the fuel injectors and 02 sensors to see what's happening 'real time'.
-marc
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Considering how new it is, you need to take it to the dealer. if for no other reason, to DOCUMENT the problem. If they can't fix it, and make the vehicle usable, then you need to check into your states lemon laws. Regardless of what they are, step 1 is to document the problem.
--
John
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John wrote:

Sorry, I went back and read your original post, and now see you bought it used, and it has 54K miles on it (Out of mfgr warranty). However, if you bought it from a dealer, you probably have at least a 30 day warranty. If from a private seller, you may have recourse if he/she had taken to be serviced for this problem, and therefore knew about it and didn't disclose it to you.
--
John
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Thanks to all of those who posted advice...it has helped out a lot. Yes, the truck is out of warranty, and the previous owner didn't report any of these problems when he sold it, so I won't press there unless it becomes absolutely necessary.
I did however pay (a nice sum) for an inspection prior to buying, so I figured since this guy got $(undisclosed amount) of my money for about an hour and a half of work :-) and gave the vehicle the "thumbs up", that he could at least give me some advice.
The course I'm going to take is to replace the fuel filter, and see if that helps. The idle normally is around 600-700 rpm. The problem isn't the idle gradually get lower and start to get rough; it seems to be more an on-or-off problem. Also I'm going to keep a notepad in the truck and record all the details if this happens again (op. temp, mileage, idle vs. driving, climate control on/off, etc.) and see if I can find a common condition. If I cannot, I may take it to a dealership to see if they can scan it while reproducing the problem. The vehicle inspector said that Ford can put a scanner on their cars that stays with the driver for a few days and records data, then the mechanic can look at what was happening while the problem happened. Chevy may have that too.
If anyone in this newsgroup is in the Atlanta area, the inspector I used was Kedrick Kennerly of http://www.autoinspectors.net I HIGHLY recommend him! He has been very helpful with advice, and more than willing to help out! I plan to go to him for mechanic work.
Again, Thanks for the advice!
P.S. Aside from the 4-5 times it has either stalled or gotten a little rough, I LOVE my truck! I didn't notice the problem today at all...we'll see.
On Sat, 20 Dec 2003 00:06:44 -0000, "John"

Krazygl00
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Inline......................
wrote:

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wrote:
Inline......................

Krazygl00
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What type of plugs are you using? The 8100 Vortec does not like the Bosch quad 4 plugs, can cause problems like that. Cam
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Not sure what type...I haven't put new ones on since buying the truck. More woes this weekend...more stalling...I think it is electrical/electronics now. I still haven't checked the engine ground but will soon. More when I know it.
krazygl00

Krazygl00
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Had the same problem with my 1999 tahoe. although i looked at the battery terminals and thought they looked good, i had read another post about them,and so i removed the cables, saw they were corroded inside. Scraped them clean, washed in baking soda and the problem was gone and never came back. 1 year later, still ok. john

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Thought I'd post a followup/resolution real quick...
A while after this post, I got a OBDII cable from http://www.obddiagnostics.com and hooked it up. It pulled a stored code, P0335, Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction. Took it into a shop that was referred to me and the mech. went over the options. It was good that we got the code, that could very well be the problem, but might not be. Since this was going to be difficult to catch in the act, replacing this sensor was really just an act of trial and error.
Replaced sensor a little over a week and 200 miles-or-so ago and so far, no stalls. I'm pretty sure the problem has been fixed, since it was happening about every other day before repair. The mech says the replacement one looked different from the old one...could be Chevy revised this sensor? I can post pics of the old sensor if there are any requests.
So the Crankshaft Position Sensor can cause intermittent stalls. One for the knowledge base?
Thanks,
Krazygl00
P.S. I can finally enjoy my new truck!
On Fri, 19 Dec 2003 05:04:31 GMT, Krazygl00

Krazygl00
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Wondering if you had to pay for it? Strangely my girl's '96 Pontiac sunfire runs just fine with a faulty one... read about someone else who has had a failed one for years... It's supposed to help the ECM have enough resolution to tell which cylinder is knocking, not that the engine isn't just knocking.
~KJ~
wrote:

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Vehicle is out of warranty, so yeah, I had to pay for it :-(
There is so little that is user-serviceable on these trucks...wish it weren't that way. I'm used to busting out a Haynes manual and replacing shit. Doubt I'd want to make one into a trail ride. I will however use it to tow a trail-ride :-)

Well, I'll let y'all know if it stalls again...so far, so good.
K
Krazygl00
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wrote:

Indeed, a defective and/or crankshaft position sensor (CKP) can cause stalling, momentary engine cut-outs, and crank but no-start conditions. Intermittant CKP's can cause these symptions without necessarily setting a DTC or sometimes setting an improper DTC. This is because the interruption of CKP input to the ignition control module is less than the dwell time programmed into the system to set a CKP DTC. On GM vehicles equiped with traction control this manifests itself often in the traction control locking out. (again with or without a DTC being set) When CKP input to the ignition control module is interrupted, the engine speed reference being supplied to the powertrain control module (PCM) is interrupted as well and the PCM reports the failure via the class 2 serial bus to the EBTCM (electronic brake and traction control module) which promptly disables the traction control. The dwell time for this failure is MUCH less than the time for a DTC to be set. This almost always clears when the ignition switched off. So everything appears normal until the CKP hiccups again. So when encountering these problems on a GM vehicle, the CKP is the likely culprit but a defective ICM could also create the same problems. On certain "W" bodies (Impala, Regal, Grand Prix 1997-2002) a wiring harness problem can cause similar problems where there is a chafing problem where the harness goes around the A/C accumulator. GM service bulletin 00-06-05-049A addresses that situation.
.......Fred
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