So I have a rear diff. seal leak on my 2002 4x4 Sonoma and I plan
on taking it apart to drain the oil and replace the seal. I haven't
replaced one before so I'm lookin for a little guidence. Anyone who
Yeah the cover seal, I assume it's pretty easy...drain it unbolt it
scrape the old seal off and spread on a new one then refill the oil
once that's set. I just don't wanna get started and run into something
I wasn't expectin.
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 11:53:33 -0000, email@example.com wrote
Everything is pretty straightforward. I would add that both surfaces
should be cleaned with acetone until no oil remains, not even oil from
your hand. I recommend Permatex Black -without- a gasket (some gaskets
will block the oil passages to the axles -- those two big holes beside
the bearing caps, you'll see them when you pull off the cover). Follow
the Permatex directions -exactly-, let it fully cure, and -then- put
the oil back in. Do it this way and you won't have to re-do it later.
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 05:39:09 -0700, Frank Gilliland
If you want to go gasket replacement with RTV only, you really want on
surface to be a bit oily (diff) and the dry surface (cover) has the
RTV applied to it. Let RTV skin over a bit them install cover finger
tight and let sit overnight and then snug it up next day and fill with
oil. If you clean both side and use RTV, you will have a hard time
removing cover in future because it will kinda be glued on.
yeah? If you do it your way(leaving oil on the surface)it'll surely
leak. To remove a cover sealed with RTV only, remove all the bolts,
and tap the cover sideways. The RTV has a low sheer strength(that's
resistance to sideways movement)and will release easily by tapping
Old Crow "Yol Bolson!"
'82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl"
'95 YJ Rio Grande
BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Never had one leak my way. Works every time. Part of the trick is to
tighten it only finger tight at first then snug after cure. (a big
mistake some make is snugging it down before it cures fully when it is
replacing gasket) Also shear strength is not that low and if you glue
both sides it will be hard to remove and on surface is not lightly
wetted with oil.
The reason I clean both surfaces is because I was taught to do it that
way by a GM tech, who also taught me that oily surfaces are the #1
reason why gasket sealers fail. If your's didn't then you didn't keep
it very long, or didn't drive it hot much..... or maybe you were just
plain lucky. I don't know. But I -do- know that I've never had a leak,
and never had a problem getting the cover off after doing it the way I
On Sun, 23 Sep 2007 01:49:37 -0700, Frank Gilliland
I the old days when you used old style permatex which was a sealant
based on petrolem (it was used as a solvent or vehicle in them) this
was true but today with RTV which is not soluble in pretol based
products you want a light film or residue on on surface to prevent the
RRV from clinging to it tightly. It will seal if you do it like I
said. People make the mistake of tightening it before it cures and
squezing sealant out when being used as a gasket replacement. When you
let it cures finger tight it forms a new gasket the you snug up after
it cures and the result is a good seal.
I don't know where you get your information about Permatex changing
from a petro to a non-petro solvent but it's wrong. The stuff has been
around a long time (probably longer than me) and has always had a base
solvent that was an aromatic hydrocarbon, usually toluene.
NEVER torque or "snug up" an RTV sealant after it cures. That's a sure
way to CREATE a leak where none existed before.
If you follow the directions on the package, as I stated before, you
won't have any problems. The directions for Permatex Black says -not-
to torque (snug) the bolts after the sealant cures. If you need a
sealer in an application where you -need- to torque the bolts, like on
transfer cases and such, the best stuff is Loctite 514 and torque the
bolts -before- the sealant cures. But you still need clean, oil-free
<snip argumentative back-pedalling>
Just follow the directions. The directions on the tube say that the
"surfaces (plural) must be clean and dry". You don't work on my truck,
so if -you- want to use it on an oily surface then by all means do so.
Myself, I would rather do it the right way.
Though I am not as old (age wise) as some in here, I can say that I
can never recall one time, using any form of RTV or sealant regardless
of intended use or design that does not instruct the user to ensure
that BOTH surfaces be clean, oil/grease free and dry.
I don't understand why anyone (except maybe one that will remain
nameless) would go through the process of repairing something only to
finish the last part of it half assed and take the risk of a premature
failure due to a piss poor seal.
Some people (who will remain nameless) are nothing more than magazine
mechanics who will say anything, right or wrong, that gives them a
feeling of self-importantance. It's also possible that he's working
for GM sales division, trying to trick us into destroying our old
clunkers so we have to buy brand new clunkers.
Either way, anyone who recommends leaving a film of oil on a surface
that is to be sealed against oil leaks has absolutely no credibility
How about some one that tells a poster to trade in a perfectly good
truck (all be it a dodge) because of a 30 dollar sensor being bad?
The same nameless person did just that. This same nameless person has
no credibility in numerous groups, so you are not alone Frank.
I will tell you what, I have seen some GM techs that are clueless too
and had a few of them work on my truck under warranty too. Most GM
techs do not give much thought to maybe having to repair same thing
again as they just want to do it as quickly as possible and get paid.
You can do it to "dumb" or "tech" glue it on method or take time to do
it correctly and be able to get it apart without a hammer and a
screwdriver or a prybar and possible damage seal surface in process.
You know lots of good ways to repair cars that doesn't require
Like for example, how would you deal with a burned out tail lamp
without changing a part?
What about a leaking water pump?
How about the infamous V-6 and V-8 intake gaskets that leak?
Or the Buick 3800 upper plenum EGR burn thru?
You talk pretty stupid.
Oh, wait, you think an early 90s GM pick-up truck AC system has a
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