350 Oil Burning

I have a fairly fresh rebuilt 350 with forged steel pistons, rods, and mild cam. The problem im having is that idle when warmed up it will burn oil. Compression is good, no oil trapped in head. If i put a pcv
valve in the other valve cover to have 2 pcv valves, it dont smok at all.
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If this engine is a new rebuild.. it could be either a: break i issue) or B).. you didn't put oil in the spak plugs before starting it to lube the top rings.. I rebuilt a 305 motor and thought "hell ya.. brand new. not gonna have issues" well.. I didn't prelube the engine and it smoked the rings outta it. ALSO the person who did the rings didn't put the rings on the pistonss right .. this is just a guess.. but sounds like what I did

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The rings are on the pistons right, and spark plugs were oiled. I have just tried to remove one of the pcv valves. If i remove the one on the drivers side it dont smoke, if i remove the one on the passenger side it will smoke. When the valve covers were installed, they were put on opposite sides, oil fill on passenger side and pcv vale in back. The drivers side has the pcv valve on the front of the motor. Just wondering what it could be. I have 15000 on the motor.

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How long Have you run this ENGINE ? 100, 200, 500 miles ? long enough to SEAT the Rings ?
We take it u have BLOW BY... SMOKE comming out of the VAVLE covers.. Not out of The EXHAUST PIPE .??
Who Rebuilt the engine..? No warentee ? if it is take it to the person who Charged u for the Rebuild .
a Ring may have broken when they put the piston into the CYCLINDER .
Ring GAPS not Staggered !
Too light of oil
thetinman snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

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I run 5w30 synthetic. No blowby from the valve covers, when warn you can remove pcv valves and have nothing coming out. compression good in all 8 cylinders, It has about 15,000 miles so far on it, so it should be broken in. Ive got 50lbs of oil pressure at cold startup and when fully warmed up off the highway, i get around 25 at 500 rpm at stoplight. is 5w30 to thin?

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On 14 Apr 2007 07:13:09 -0700, thetinman snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

A few questions, what is your oil consumption rate? Next, did you break engin in with SYN oil? (this is not wise to do) Also, how did you break it in after rebuild? ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Oil consumption is about 1 quart every 2500 miles. Not bad. Broke engine in with 5w30 conventional valvoline. Changed oil at 500 with the same. Switched to syn at 3000 miles.

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On 14 Apr 2007 09:43:47 -0700, thetinman snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Okay, I do not consider a quart every 2500 miles a problem. The reason for this is i like to see a engine use a quart of oil every 3000 miles or so because it helps keep upper cylinder lubed. I have a engine that has been "burning" a quart of oil every 3000 to 3500 miles for over 10 years and it has not changed and it has over 180K miles on it now. You might try 10w30 in warmer weather because a 5w30 oil tends to increase consumption sometimes in warmer weather. SYN oil can also increase consumption sometimes too. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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The part about the oil burning stopping is wrong. I had the motor pretty warm after getting stuck, and at idle it puffed out smoke of the exhaust. I hook up the other pcv valve and a few minutes its stopped burning

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==========On Apr 14, 4:42?pm, thetinman snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

OK.....now i'm pissed.
You're wasting our time by posting misleading and false diagnostic test results causing us now backtrack up the diagnostic tree and start from scratch.
so....let's start ALL OVER!!!!!!!!! here we go.....based on your latest diagnostic post........ . . (please note quote marks) :)
1) "the part about the oil burning stopping is wrong"
2) "had the motor pretty warm after getting stuck"
3) "at idle it puffed out smoke"
4) "and a few minutes it stopped burning"
now.....instead you make'n me smoke up all my homegrown to keep from pull'n my hair out.........
let's jest go with this aye........
pull the freek'n valve covers off you lazy bum and replace the guide seals before you dare make one more repost.
then....and only then.......IF it still smokes....... do a repost, and i'll tell you to yank the pistons to ck the rings.
~~ 00 L O
~:~ MarshMonster ~takes a sip of his shroomjuice.....takes a toke......scratches his head... and wonders if he's read'n what yer type'n or if yer type'n what yer think'n.. or if yer think'n bout type'n what yer hope'n we'll be think'n the type'n outta be~
<<who's on first>>
==============
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Marsh Monster wrote:

I was wondering why nobody else mentioned the seals.....
And I'll repeat, double seal them. Use the cup seals as well as the GM seals. On all of the valve stems.


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Now listen here you rednedck m***** f***** dont you dare talk to me like that, it stopped burning for about 2 days. If your pissed to come back to this site. FU

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tss212 wrote:

Hey, asshole, this is not the way to get help.


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========On Apr 13, 5:39?pm, thetinman snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

2 questions..............
What happens if you remove BOTH pcv's?
What is the "actual" oil consumption of the engine when only the "drivers side pcv valve" is removed, and the "smoke" condition doesn't exist ??
~:~ MarshMonster ~sips his mushroom tea~ ~:~
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thetinman snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

May be leaking at the valve guides. Were the heads done? Every time I have done a 350 I have added Ford cup style seals on the valve stems, in addition to the GM seals. Easy to pop the valve covers and do this now. Just make sure you pressurize the cylinder before removing the locks or you will drop a valve and have to remove the head.
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When you have one PCV valve in, is the other valve cover vented or blocked off? It needs to be vented other wise you'll suck crankcase vapors through the motor.
Brian
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I'll add, you'll suck oil through the motor with the crankcase vapors.
Brian
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