350 Small Block Starter

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Hi all,
I have a 84 Silverado with a 350 small block. The bolt hole nearest the outside of the block where the starter bolts on broke away. I've had it
welded but it keeps breaking off. Does anyone know of a different starter that can be mounted not using this hole?
Jimb
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You spammed your own message? Sweet! .

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George, As I told Ed I am trying to find a solution to a problem I have. I've tried welding and it keeps breaking loose. Its a fairly recent rebuild or I'd dump the block and replace it. I've had the screen name Rebel48 for a number of years. My son recently set up new email and newsgroup servers for me and used Dad as my user name. I didn't know it till I had posted a few times. If this makes me a spammer, so be it. I'm new to the news group scene but I see lots of users with their web addresses on them. So why don't you get a life. I notice that you don't have the balls to use your real email address. BTW thanks for the 411 on the URL for GM parts but I already have that. I'm looking for something someone might have knowledge of that took some ingenuity to make work. Not a OEM part.
--

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www.abetinternational.com
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*Last entry* OK - maybe it ain't you -I'm sorry you were offended. First I do have a life. Second, having balls means nothing to using a "real" email address. The big time spammers use spambots to harvest email addresses from the news groups. I have my email "munged" to prevent getting a few hundred spam messages. There is nothing wrong with having your web address in your replies. When I called it spam, there wasn't an answer to your problem - just the reference to your website (which doesn't sell starters!) So I'll stand by my first inference - its spam. I'm not here for a pissing contest - I just hate spam about as much as junk mail and unsolicited phone calls. As for the original problem - a starter puts pretty good torque when it engages. If the weld doesn't hold, it just may be time for a new block. .

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No, that doesn't make you a spammer....
THIS makes you a spammer.... "
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Funny part is that this place doesn't even sell starters....
-- ---------------------------------------------------------------- Ed Murray Certified Locksmith My Enthusiast's Website: http://www.crooked-ridez.com

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Ed, I'm not looking for smart ass answers. Just some legitimate information.
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http://chevy-parts-for-less.com/motors.html
These guys sell starters, too! This is what spammers do - post some off topic shit to make a buck. I don't make anything off the link but if you get a new block, your starter should bolt right up. Ed was right, and I didn't think he was being a smartass. Here's some legitimate information - you're a spammer! .

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Thanks George. I would appreciate it if you wouldn't e-mail me Rebeldad, I already have enough junk in my inbox to delete.
-- ---------------------------------------------------------------- Ed Murray Certified Locksmith My Enthusiast's Website: http://www.crooked-ridez.com

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Then send a legitimate message.
Die, spam, DIE! 8)

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Where did it break, through the hole itself or between the holes? As far as a different mounting on a SBC never seen anything other than the bolts through the starter and the brace to the block off the rear. Maybe weld it and then put a threadsert insert in. That would take some stress off the casting.
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Steve Williams
Near Cooperstown NY
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Dad and Rebel48 are the same person....pretty lame...
-- ---------------------------------------------------------------- Ed Murray Certified Locksmith My Enthusiast's Website: http://www.crooked-ridez.com

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I don't think Castings take weld well either I suggest using some JB weld epoxy instead they claim that farmers have use it to fix cracked blocks on tractors and such. If you let it dry properly it holds pretty well. A weld won't do anything good though
Corey

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Yes you can weld castings. You just have to know how to do it-- preheat the casting and so on.
Noone said it would be easy....

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NOT something you do with oil in it, in a truck. I'd think MAYBE brazing, but again.... NOT something you do with oil in the truck...
~KJ~

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I wouldn't have a problem with welding on the block near the starter location with it in the truck.As long as your paying attention it is not a problem. Just lock the broken part in real good (after baking it in an oven or using a torch on it to get any oil/water out of the casting) Then heat the block area with a torch till it is warm, then weld the broken area with a high nickel rod and hit it a few times with a slag hammer to help relieve the stress. Once it is welded then use a tap to clean up the hole (if broken through the hole) or use a threadsert kit NOT a standard heli-coil to repair the holes threads. Then maybe put a strap steel brace up across the casting from the ear up to the next mounting hole.
Steve W.

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:nods: listen to him- he knows the score.
I'm willing to bet if this block's been welded and has broken again, it was NOT welded properly.
We welded the top two links of a 4-link suspension to the cast iron on my buddy's Dana44 in the back of his TJ and it's held up with no damage at all. That rig is running a built 350, 700R4, Atlas transfer case, about 12" of lift, and a driver who thinks the throttle is an on/off switch <VERY heavy-footed>.
Not so much as a crack in the welds. I'm SURE this takes a hell of a lot more beating than a starter bolt.
When welding cast, it's all in the preparation and preheat.

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As I know perfectly well. I still don't think you can do it properly to an engine block full of oil with wires and shit hanging all around it.
~KJ~

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You're not welding the oil pan.
Use MIG process with the appropriate gas and electrode, and the heat is actually pretty localized.

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