350 that hesitates when its cold- anyone have any ideas

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Save your $$$$, all you need is the injectors, not the whole damn TB.
Doc
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I'll have to buy the injector's new and that's alot more than buying a uses TB. $30 isn't that bad. Kev
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You didn't mention it was only $30 for the whole TB in your other post. For that price, go for it.
Doc
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So have you ever heard of wiring a switch under the gas pedal. See previous post.
Kev
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The switch was actually above the gas pedal:
With a chain and a wheel for it to go through, to make it pull when you stepped on the pedal.
You can get the switch out of up to an 83 C-K 20or30 P/U with 2 or 4WD that had a TH400.
The ultimate switch setup came out of the 65 to 67 big bodies, like the Impalas, Catalina's, 88's and 98's. Those could be adapted to anything!
Refinish King

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I need an electric switch, because there is no cable on the tranny to hook up too. At least as far as I can see. I think the electric switch is suppose to hook up to the connection on the drivers side.
Kev
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I know:
I worked on these from the 60's. I gave you an idea what to look for, or look in the B&M catalog.
Refinish King
PS I forgot which company it is, but one company makes a kit that you can put under the hood at the carb linkage. To make it easier to adjust.

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please ignore my last about this, then.
Learn something new every day....

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<TOP POST>
King gave you the correct lowdown on the factory switch.
however........
Summit Racing sells the part you need, around $30-$40. Bolts to the TB. Easy to install. You should be able to find it at ANY reputable "speed shop". It's readily available for TH400 conversions.
or.......... you could make one for around a dollar, and a little frustration investment.
MarshMonster ~:~ ==========On Jul 8, 2004, 1:13am (CDT+5) snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (kev) was talking with the Doctor when he asked.........
So have you ever heard of wiring a switch under the gas pedal. See previous post.
Kev
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wouldn't do it.
I'd attach the switch to the throttle lever.

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Changing the 305 TB to a 350 TB worked got lots of power now. Now for the tranny kickdown. The switch under the gas pedal will have to be electric any idea where you hook the wires too, or should I just go back to the orignal tranny for that truck? Could I get an even trade for my turbo 400.
Kev
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Nope, not an even trade. The 700's are worth tons more than the 400's. For example, a rebuilt 400 runs 800-900, a rebuilt 700 runs 1300-1500
Doc
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Checked the ignition timing lately?
Doc
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No I just assumed the guy who rebuilt it set the timing right. How many degrees from tdc is it suppose to be?
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With the EST unplugged (MUST be unplugged) it should be right at TDC (or 0*BTDC). You can run it up to 4*BTDC without issue.
Doc
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Ping Doc, et al:
got an 89 S10 Blazer, Vin Z, TBI, 4.3, 700R4:
new TPS, IAC, cleaned and rebuilt TBI, new FPR <to include spring>, CTS, MAF <or is it MAP?> sensor, O2 sensor. Basically everything but the knock sensor.
I'm running rich as evidenced by the soot-coated exhaust pipe and the smell of gas at the pipe.
Computer throws no codes, I have logged data from WinALDL but am not sure how to interpret it.
Am installing an Air/fuel gauge, but haven't had time to do more than physically mount it due to the weather and having my garage full of crap <just moved into a house>.
No info on fuel pressure. I would assume a dying fuel pump would put out less fuel and therefore make the engine run lean.
Air filter is a K&N, and is cleaned regularly.
Checked base spark timing as per the manual- disconnect the ESC wire, set timing to 4deg BTDC, reconnect. When I check the timing during operation, it retards to abotu 10deg BTDC. So apparently there is something being told to the ECU to make it retard. I can hear no spark knock or other mechanical noises other than a tapping exhaust pipe or something of the sort at idle, which goes away with application of throttle. Again, haven't had time to investigate.
I'm getting 14MPG, and I bet if I track this down I can get 3 more. She's running REALLY retarded <!?> and really rich...
ideas?
Doc- you said something about the HB being off a tad- how would one check for that? I know normally you can pull a plug, put a dowel in the motor, and turn it over by hand till you're at TDC and compare the HB's position re: the timing marks. However, this basically being a smallblock- the spark plugs enter the head at an angle, so that would be a ballpark operation at best.
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sorry- meant to post a new thread.

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