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4wd problems

Howdy again group.

91 Chevy Silverado, 5.7 liter, 700R4...

Got snow here in Indiana finally and when I put the thing in 4Hi, it wants to hop as if I were turning on dry pavement while I am going straight down snow/ice covered roads. Never had this problem before. I do periodically engage 4wd during the summer for light off roading and sometimes just to lube everything up. It does turn all the lights on to show 4wd is engaged. What happens is it wants to pull to the right or left at different times, bad. I can't go safely over say 35 MPH.

Any ideas? TIA.

Reply to
Dirty White Boy
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Okay, took it in to a reputable shop and they tell me the pitman arm and idler arm are worn. The right tie-rod (OS) is also bent. Their theory is that when the front wheels are pulling, the play is making the truck jump. Anyone have any thoughts?

Also, this will be the third set in 4-5 years for the pitman/idler arms. The shop says they are problematic in all Chevy trucks and I was wondering if maybe the anyone else has run into this in the group.

The truck has 6" of lift and 35" tires. I know that factors in, but is it common to go through these so quick with a lifted truck?

Reply to
Dirty White Boy

I have a friend who has a 89 chevy "4 lift and 35" superswampers tires. He has to change the idler and pittarm about ever 1 and a half years. He hardly evers takes it rode.

Reply to
Brian

6 inch suspension lift? There is geometry designed into the location of the tie rods, center link , pitman arm and idler arm. If your using the stock parts you may have to locate "drop" pitman and idler arms. The tie rods should be close to parallel with the centerlink when the vehicle is sitting on level ground. If the angle is sever it puts stress on the pitman and idler arm they weren't designed to handle. Whitelightning
Reply to
Whitelightning

Whitelightning,

Thanks for the input. Sorry it took so long to reply. I work a crazy schedule.

The lift kit incorporated a drop center link set-up that keeps the same idler and pitman arms. I do believe the tierods have about a 20-30 degree angle (estimate) while parked on level ground. I guess that accounts for the increased wear and tear.

I am contemplating relaxing the torsion bars some to get more of a level tierod angle. Never thought much about it, but I guess one would have to drop them all the way down and count the turns as you go up to the height you want to make sure both are even..??

Worse case scenario, I do some minor trimming on the fenders to get the clearance I need for the tires. Worse-Worse case scenario... solid front axle conversion.

Reply to
Dirty White Boy

My 91 K2500HD has the torsion bars adjusted up nearly to the top and runs stock wheels & tires. It gets low city kms all year (about

10km/day) with some moderate hwy kms and some light to moderate off road with a 1400 lb camper. What I consider very light use. It eats ball joints and idler arms like candy. Apparently the idler arm thing is common. Ball joints not so much. These are usually "Moog" brand. I've gone back to GM replacement parts to see if this helps. b/t/w I almost never turn the steering when the truck isn't moving, a habit with me. I have only experienced this "hop" when once or twice I happened to turn the truck sharply in 4wd on a non slippery surface. I have experienced this on other trucks too. What speed is the "Hop" or vibration? Could the CV joints be faulty? Are the front differential mounts ok? Are all the drive shafts ok? Does the problem change under acceleration /deceleration? Has this problem always existed? Just a few thoughts.

Good luck

Dirty White Boy wrote:

Reply to
Bob

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