6.2L Diesel Starter

I have a 1984 K5 with a 6.2L Diesel with starter problems. I know it is missing the back mounting bracket. I just want to know if this is the only problem.
Right now when you try to start it the starter grinds bad. Does this start require shimming like other GM starter or is not in the right place becuase of the missing bracket?
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Hello,
The starter's mounting bracket is towards the front and is required to prevent damage to the starter, plus you do not want the starter mounting bolt(s) to shear off in the block because of lack of support.
Use shims as required (available at local auto parts store) to get the proper starter pinion to flywheel gap.
If you have to replace the starter, you have a choice between standard replacement or gear-reduction replacement.
Good luck, Franko

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I was given the truck because of the starter problems. Here is the story as I know it. It is originally a Military truck so it had 2 alternators and batteries and a 24 volt starter. It was converted over to 1 alternator and battery and 12 volt start before they bought it. They decided to hook up the other alternator and install another battery. This then supplied the starter with 24 volts. The claimed the starter died and broke one of the 2 bolts. They installed a new starter and unhooked the second alternator and battery. They were never able to get it to work right so they gave it to me. They're maybe more to the story that they are not admitting. I looked at the flex plate and it looks good the starter looks good. I plan on going to the Chev dealer today to buy the missing bracket and pick up a shim kit. Is there anything else to look at?
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No just replace the broken bolt if it hasn't been done. I have an 83 and broken bolts are very common, there is a massive amount of torque on those two bolts. You will need the two batteries but hooked in parallel not in series. So decide which side battery will feed the truck and just get cables long enough to reach from the second battery to the first one. But hook red to red and black to black, the red one from the second battery to the red of the first battery and so on. One battery will not be enough to start the truck in the winter time. Otherwise go with what Franko said, you do need a shim with this starter. I would also check the starter gear on the torque converter to make sure it isn't beaten to death. If it is warn out it will destroy every starter you put on it in the future. Good luck and be careful the starters are heavy. I would also leave out the second alternator and use it as back-up should the primary fail. Otherwise it sounds like a win for you. A free truck... :) as a side note if it is a military truck the trans is probably a TH350 (or TH400) and not a 700R4 so if the dealer asks...this may make a difference in shim thickness... Let us know how you make out.
good luck, mark
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Make sure you install NEW starter bolts, GRADUALLY torqued to spec, using thread lock blue.
Always install identical batteries for dual-battery setups. Install the "largest" CA/CCA capacity that will fit your budget/engine compartment. For dual-batts (per Mark), use at least 4 ga. red cable from + to + terminals (shortest possible). Use at least 2 ga. red cable from the + terminal of one battery (closest to starter) to the starter. Use 4 ga. black cables from the NEG terminals of the batteries to the engine block grounds. Use 6 or 8 ga. from the NEG terminals of the batteries to the fender/frame (scrape to bare metal if required or use heavy sheet metal screws with external star washers).
Clean all electrical contacts -- remove all nuts and washers, degrease if required and wire brush to remove corrosion. Do the same for the alternator contacts and the two engine ground straps.
Spray red battery terminal protector spray (available at AutoZone or other auto parts stores) on battery terminals, ground points, starter terminals, etc.
For top post connectors, use the red/green felt battery terminal rings ($1.25 a set stops headaches down the road with corroded connectors). Use them cautiously with side connectors because they may get in the way and prevent good contacts.
If you have an engine block heater, use it when it gets colder than 32 deg F -- I have mine on a timer for 2 hours before I start it in the a.m. Below 20 deg F, I have the heater on for at least 3 hours.
When it's cold, if you park where you are unable to plug in the block heater, you will need to cycle the glow plugs twice or thrice before attempting to crank the engine to start. This is when the dual-batt set up is a life saver.
Use synthetic oil for easier cold starts.
Good luck and let us know how you go!
Regards, Franko

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Forgot to add...
Spray red battery terminal protector spray AFTER assembling/tightening connections.
Regards, Franko

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OK next problem. I broke the bolt on the starter Solenoid. I went to the part store and every one they pull is different than the one I need. They pulled a starter that they say is for the truck and it is diffent that the one I have. Other than buy there starter $170 any ideas. There really are no numbers on the Solenoid is 12V. The numbers on the stater are 12V UNI9-03. I assume the 12V is 12 volts but any ideas one what starter I have? Not sure if this will help but the Solenoid has the plunger on it and a rubber boot over it. Will the starter they want to sell me going to work?
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Hello Ron,
Which bolt on the solenoid are you referring to?
Try searching for a local shop that rebuilds starters/alternators -- they should be able to repair your unit for much less than a "new" one from the autoparts store (rebuilds). I suspect you may have a military starter.
Franko

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The bolt holds the wire from the ingition switch.
Ron
Franko wrote:

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Hello Ron,
If I remember correctly, that's a copper bolt? If you feel comfortable opening up the solenoid to replace that bolt...
If you cannot find a copper replacement, use a brass one, otherwise stainless steel. Go for it and if you cannot fix it yourself, do the local rebuild shop and maybe they'll let you watch how they do it. Let us know and good luck.
Franko

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