79 chevy blazer w/350 and 4x4 stock full size won't idle...

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Hello,
This is a continuation of a continuing project that I have been working on. I had changed my dads heads on his truck and we are just getting it back
together and it sounds strong but it won't idle. I checked the vacuum lines and some are clogged so I will be changing them. I checked the EGR and its was clogged and I cleaned it out and it still won't idle. I was wondering if you can help me? Am I forgetting to check anything here?
Thanks.
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"D.L. Man" wrote:

Do you have access to a vacum gauge and can you read vacum at a idle? (what it is and how it acts before it dies)
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I can't get it to idle. It simple dies. It won't even get close to idle before it dies. I can have it run at high speeds though. I checked the timing and it was very advanced but that could be because its running so fast. Do you know how it runs when the vacuum line in the front of the carb is disconnected? Or if the EGR is open and it just dies instead of idling that's how its running. I checked the vacuum lines up front and plugged the EGR and it still is doing it.
I don't have a vacuum gauge either.
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I agree......It may the wrong base gasket under the carb causing a major vacuum leak
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Mad-Dog
'79 Chevy K-10
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I thought that I followed the installation procedure when I installed the intake. I even waited for the PCV to dry in the corners before I put the intake back on. I didn't remove the carb but I will check all those spots to see how they are sealed.
I was wondering what the compression should be on the cylinders though? I did come across a compression tester.
I am not getting all the post in my news reader. I don't know why either.
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Since you did remove the heads it's best to start at the beginning where vacuum is created and go from there. Compression could be as high as 150psi. So let's use 100psi as minimum acceptable. Disconnect the coil wire to be sure the engine won't start and set the carb to stay wide open. Hook up the gauge and turn the engine 4 compression strokes. Watch the gauge on each stroke...a low reading on the first stroke which does not build up on the following strokes indicates leaking valves, blown head gasket, or even a cracked head. If you have two adjacent cylinders with similar low compression it's most likely the head gasket not sealing.
After you replaced the heads, what method did you use to adjust the valves.
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I started at TDC on the #1 piston set the rocker arm by twisting the push rod until it had a little drag then I rotated the crank 90 degrees to the next cylinder in the firing order and did the same for all of them. I got back the #1 plug and set the other rocker by setting the lash with a little drag. I had a friend help that might not have moved the correct 90 degrees because he didn't understand why I wasn't setting the lash while the engine was running so I might have over set the lash on a few. I did notice some backfiring when I started the car and put a load on it.
I think I have to start over setting the lash. And then check the timing again. If it idles I could check for a vacuum leak in the intake manifold.
I was going to change the carb because the one on there sucks. But I still am not sure where I should be focusing on. The carb I was looking at is a edelbrock 650. But I don't know if it will be to much.
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When starting on #1 TDC lift the distributor cap to see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 terminal. At this point the lifters for both intake and exhaust should be off the cam lobes (valves closed). Check the rotor to terminal position as you go down the firing order. You more than likely have hydraulic lifters but the set up you describe would be more correct for solids. Once you know you are on the #1 compression stroke go ahead and adjust both intake and exhaust in the same method as you did earlier before moving on to #8. Turn 90 then set both for #8. Turn 90 then on to 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2. If in fact these are hydraulic lifters...once you have the free spin out of the push rod, give the ratchet an extra 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Once you have these base settings and are reusing the original cam and lifters it may be necessary to do as your friend suggests and make a final adjustment with the engine running. You mention the carb...this could also be the cause of poor or no idle. If it's a quadrajet...personally I would clean and rebuilt it as opposed to the edelbrock. But first things first, set the valves and check the compression.
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Ok I just got a chance to work on it again. I pulled the valve covers and set the #1 to TDC and checked the rotor and it was pointing at the #1 plug wire. I figure this was on the compression stroke so I tightened the valves closed again. (There were few that were loose too) I went on the next one setting the lash again for each one. Some needed it some didn't. I started finished and we started it up. My dad pushed on all the valves and he didn't tighten any down. So I guess it passed his inspection. While it was stated and with the valve covers off we put it in gear. There wasn't any backfiring thru the carb this time. I was happy to see that. But we couldn't advance the timing anymore either. And when it got down to what seemed like a good idle. And was checking the timing the mark was very advanced. Like 1-2 inches past the last mark on the timing mark thingy. We tried to retard it a little and it was coming back too. But then it started ticking. So we advanced it and the ticking stopped. But it is back to where we started. The carb that is on it now came off my brothers truck and is a manual chock. I don't really know if its a POS. But we bought a Holly II remained Quadra or Rochester that we are looking to put back on it. The old carb that we pulled off had an electric choke and this one has a vacuum choke. I don't know if this matters though?
We will put it on in the morning and see what if any difference it makes. But I think that I should add that I had to set the idle high on the old one just to get it to run and when its turned off there is a cloud of smoke that comes from the carb and it lingers there like fog. I know its gas but I don't know for sure if its the idle of the fuel pump that is adding so much gas that it flows like that. My dads truck vapor locks during hot weather so he put a electric fuel pump in there. And the truck fires right up. It could mean that his old fuel pump is bad because its not delivering the gas in hot weather. Or that the electric inline fuel pump is to strong.
When let me know what I can do and if I am missing something?
D.L. Man
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D.L. Man wrote:

    Egads, Stop the torture. Tow the dang thing to a Mechanic! Charles
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"Charles Bendig" wrote:

Why? If he would get a vacum gauge and do a few tests he could find out what is going on. Without one he is shooting in the dark though at this stage.
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SnoMan wrote:

    If you have your timing out by one to two Inches off the timing pointer, you have a problem. If you can't set initial valve lash with out geussing your at TDC on the compression stroke, and you don't bother to do a final valve lash. How do you expect this guy to check his vaccume?
    Vaccume gauges are more for setting up carburators then for generial engine tuning. Their aaint many tests needed to be done on a old school small block. If you have the proper compression, and the cylinders don't leak down. If the cooling system holds pressure, and it pulls vaccume your good to go. If your Initial Timing is set right, your cam timing is right, setting ignition timing is a snap.
    This guy does not seam to be grasping the basics of correct repair proceedures. At this point he should seek help from a professional.
Charles
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Sounds like you are making some progress. Did you reset ALL the valves whether they were loose or not and did you give the ratchet an extra 3/4 turn. Just to rule some things out...did you remove the distributor or timing chain at any time. Check the vacuum advance on the distributor. Take the vacuum line and suck the air out and look to see if the rod on the advance is moving. If it does not move or cannot hold the vacuum it will need to be replaced.
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I did turn the valves another turn before we put the valve covers back on. I didn't mess with the timing chain. I did have to remove the distributor though.
I will check the vacuum advance also.
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Forgot to ask...are you trying to set the timing with the vacuum going to the distributor connected. This should be disconnected and the source closed off when setting the base timing. Reconnecting the vacuum will pull the mark past the "thingy".
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"" wrote:
> > > > > > > > > > I agree......It may the wrong base gasket > under the carb > > causing > > > a > > > > > > major > > > > > > > > > vacuum leak > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sounds like you have a major vacum leak. It > is one of few > > > > places, > > > > > > one > > > > > > > > > > is the gasket under carb, the second is a > leak in vacum > > power > > > > > brake > > > > > > > > > > booster. third is a defective PCV valve and > the fourth > (and > > > most > > > > > > > > > > likely here) is a defective of improperly > installed intake > > > > > manifold > > > > > > > > > > gaskets because you said you just had heads > off. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I thought that I followed the installation > procedure when I > > > > installed > > > > > > the > > > > > > > > intake. I even waited for the PCV to dry in the > corners before > I > > > put > > > > > the > > > > > > > > intake back on. I didn't remove the carb but I > will check all > > > those > > > > > > spots > > > > > > > to > > > > > > > > see how they are sealed. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I was wondering what the compression should be > on the > cylinders > > > > > though? > > > > > > I > > > > > > > > did come across a compression tester. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I am not getting all the post in my news reader. > I don't know > > why > > > > > > either. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Since you did remove the heads it's best to start > at the > beginning > > > > where > > > > > > > vacuum is created and go from there. Compression > could be as > high > > > as > > > > > > > 150psi. So let's use 100psi as minimum > acceptable. Disconnect > > the > > > > coil > > > > > > > wire to be sure the engine won't start and set the > carb to stay > > wide > > > > > open. > > > > > > > Hook up the gauge and turn the engine 4 > compression strokes. > Watch > > > the > > > > > > gauge > > > > > > > on each stroke...a low reading on the first stroke > which does > not > > > > build > > > > > up > > > > > > > on the following strokes indicates leaking valves, > blown head > > > gasket, > > > > or > > > > > > > even a cracked head. If you have two adjacent > cylinders with > > > similar > > > > > low > > > > > > > compression it's most likely the head gasket not > sealing. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > After you replaced the heads, what method did you > use to adjust > > the > > > > > > valves. > > > > > > > > > > > > I started at TDC on the #1 piston set the rocker arm > by twisting > the > > > > push > > > > > > rod until it had a little drag then I rotated the > crank 90 degrees > > to > > > > the > > > > > > next cylinder in the firing order and did the same > for all of > them. > > I > > > > got > > > > > > back the #1 plug and set the other rocker by setting > the lash with > a > > > > > little > > > > > > drag. I had a friend help that might not have moved > the correct 90 > > > > degrees > > > > > > because he didn't understand why I wasn't setting > the lash while > the > > > > > engine > > > > > > was running so I might have over set the lash on a > few. I did > notice > > > > some > > > > > > backfiring when I started the car and put a load on > it. > > > > > > > > > > > > I think I have to start over setting the lash. And > then check the > > > timing > > > > > > again. If it idles I could check for a vacuum leak > in the intake > > > > manifold. > > > > > > > > > > > > I was going to change the carb because the one on > there sucks. But > I > > > > still > > > > > > am not sure where I should be focusing on. The carb > I was looking > at > > > is > > > > a > > > > > > edelbrock 650. But I don't know if it will be to > much. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > When starting on #1 TDC lift the distributor cap to > see if the rotor > > is > > > > > pointing at the #1 terminal. At this point the > lifters for both > > intake > > > > and > > > > > exhaust should be off the cam lobes (valves closed). > Check the rotor > > to > > > > > terminal position as you go down the firing order. You > more than > > likely > > > > have > > > > > hydraulic lifters but the set up you describe would be > more correct > > for > > > > > solids. Once you know you are on the #1 compression > stroke go ahead > > and > > > > > adjust both intake and exhaust in the same method as > you did earlier > > > > before > > > > > moving on to #8. Turn 90 then set both for #8. Turn 90 > then on to 4, > > 3, > > > 6, > > > > > 5, 7, 2. If in fact these are hydraulic lifters...once > you have the > > free > > > > > spin out of the push rod, give the ratchet an extra > 1/2 to 3/4 turn. > > > Once > > > > > you have these base settings and are reusing the > original cam and > > > lifters > > > > it > > > > > may be necessary to do as your friend suggests and > make a final > > > adjustment > > > > > with the engine running. You mention the carb...this > could also be > > the > > > > > cause of poor or no idle. If it's a > quadrajet...personally I would > > > clean > > > > > and rebuilt it as opposed to the edelbrock. But first > things first, > > set > > > > the > > > > > valves and check the compression. > > > > > > > > Ok I just got a chance to work on it again. I pulled the > valve covers > > and > > > > set the #1 to TDC and checked the rotor and it was > pointing at the #1 > > plug > > > > wire. I figure this was on the compression stroke so I > tightened the > > > valves > > > > closed again. (There were few that were loose too) I > went on the next > > one > > > > setting the lash again for each one. Some needed it some > didn't. I > > started > > > > finished and we started it up. My dad pushed on all the > valves and he > > > didn't > > > > tighten any down. So I guess it passed his inspection. > While it was > > stated > > > > and with the valve covers off we put it in gear. There > wasn't any > > > backfiring > > > > thru the carb this time. I was happy to see that. But we > couldn't > > advance > > > > the timing anymore either. And when it got down to what > seemed like a > > good > > > > idle. And was checking the timing the mark was very > advanced. Like 1-2 > > > > inches past the last mark on the timing mark thingy. We > tried to > retard > > it > > > a > > > > little and it was coming back too. But then it started > ticking. So we > > > > advanced it and the ticking stopped. But it is back to > where we > started. > > > The > > > > carb that is on it now came off my brothers truck and is > a manual > chock. > > I > > > > don't really know if its a POS. But we bought a Holly II > remained > Quadra > > > or > > > > Rochester that we are looking to put back on it. The old > carb that we > > > pulled > > > > off had an electric choke and this one has a vacuum > choke. I don't > know > > if > > > > this matters though? > > > > > > > > We will put it on in the morning and see what if any > difference it > > makes. > > > > But I think that I should add that I had to set the idle > high on the > old > > > one > > > > just to get it to run and when its turned off there is a > cloud of > smoke > > > that > > > > comes from the carb and it lingers there like fog. I > know its gas but > I > > > > don't know for sure if its the idle of the fuel pump > that is adding so > > > much > > > > gas that it flows like that. My dads truck vapor locks > during hot > > weather > > > so > > > > he put a electric fuel pump in there. And the truck > fires right up. It > > > could > > > > mean that his old fuel pump is bad because its not > delivering the gas > in > > > hot > > > > weather. Or that the electric inline fuel pump is to > strong. > > > > > > > > When let me know what I can do and if I am missing > something? > > > > > > > > D.L. Man > > > > > > > > > > Sounds like you are making some progress. Did you reset > ALL the valves > > > whether they were loose or not and did you give the > ratchet an extra 3/4 > > > turn. > > > Just to rule some things out...did you remove the > distributor or timing > > > chain at any time. > > > Check the vacuum advance on the distributor. Take the > vacuum line and > > suck > > > the air out and look to see if the rod on the advance is > moving. If it > > does > > > not move or cannot hold the vacuum it will need to be > replaced. > > > > > > > > > > I did turn the valves another turn before we put the valve > covers back on. > > I didn't mess with the timing chain. I did have to remove > the distributor > > though. > > > > I will check the vacuum advance also. > > > > Forgot to ask...are you trying to set the timing with the > vacuum going to > the distributor connected. This should be disconnected and > the source > closed off when setting the base timing. Reconnecting the > vacuum will pull > the mark past the "thingy".
You could have had a handle on this a day or two ago if you would go to the basic vacum testing first.
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I disconnected the vacuum advance and plugged it. I restabbed the distributor too. This time I cranked the crank shaft over by hand to make sure that the timing is set. I think that I have a problem with the vacuum lines. I don't get any sucking coming from them. I need to know where I can find a vacuum diagram. The one under the hood is gone. Is there and online source? It has an EGR, and cats.No other emissions crap.
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"" wrote:
> > > > > > > > I agree......It may the wrong base gasket under > the carb causing > a > > > > major > > > > > > > vacuum leak > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sounds like you have a major vacum leak. It is > one of few > > places, > > > > one > > > > > > > > is the gasket under carb, the second is a leak > in vacum power > > > brake > > > > > > > > booster. third is a defective PCV valve and the > fourth (and > most > > > > > > > > likely here) is a defective of improperly > installed intake > > > manifold > > > > > > > > gaskets because you said you just had heads off. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > > > > > > > I thought that I followed the installation procedure > when I > > installed > > > > the > > > > > > intake. I even waited for the PCV to dry in the > corners before I > put > > > the > > > > > > intake back on. I didn't remove the carb but I will > check all > those > > > > spots > > > > > to > > > > > > see how they are sealed. > > > > > > > > > > > > I was wondering what the compression should be on > the cylinders > > > though? > > > > I > > > > > > did come across a compression tester. > > > > > > > > > > > > I am not getting all the post in my news reader. I > don't know why > > > > either. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Since you did remove the heads it's best to start at > the beginning > > where > > > > > vacuum is created and go from there. Compression > could be as high > as > > > > > 150psi. So let's use 100psi as minimum acceptable. > Disconnect the > > coil > > > > > wire to be sure the engine won't start and set the > carb to stay wide > > > open. > > > > > Hook up the gauge and turn the engine 4 compression > strokes. Watch > the > > > > gauge > > > > > on each stroke...a low reading on the first stroke > which does not > > build > > > up > > > > > on the following strokes indicates leaking valves, > blown head > gasket, > > or > > > > > even a cracked head. If you have two adjacent > cylinders with > similar > > > low > > > > > compression it's most likely the head gasket not > sealing. > > > > > > > > > > After you replaced the heads, what method did you use > to adjust the > > > > valves. > > > > > > > > I started at TDC on the #1 piston set the rocker arm by > twisting the > > push > > > > rod until it had a little drag then I rotated the crank > 90 degrees to > > the > > > > next cylinder in the firing order and did the same for > all of them. I > > got > > > > back the #1 plug and set the other rocker by setting the > lash with a > > > little > > > > drag. I had a friend help that might not have moved the > correct 90 > > degrees > > > > because he didn't understand why I wasn't setting the > lash while the > > > engine > > > > was running so I might have over set the lash on a few. > I did notice > > some > > > > backfiring when I started the car and put a load on it. > > > > > > > > I think I have to start over setting the lash. And then > check the > timing > > > > again. If it idles I could check for a vacuum leak in > the intake > > manifold. > > > > > > > > I was going to change the carb because the one on there > sucks. But I > > still > > > > am not sure where I should be focusing on. The carb I > was looking at > is > > a > > > > edelbrock 650. But I don't know if it will be to much. > > > > > > > > > > > > > When starting on #1 TDC lift the distributor cap to see if > the rotor is > > > pointing at the #1 terminal. At this point the lifters > for both intake > > and > > > exhaust should be off the cam lobes (valves closed). Check > the rotor to > > > terminal position as you go down the firing order. You > more than likely > > have > > > hydraulic lifters but the set up you describe would be > more correct for > > > solids. Once you know you are on the #1 compression > stroke go ahead and > > > adjust both intake and exhaust in the same method as you > did earlier > > before > > > moving on to #8. Turn 90 then set both for #8. Turn 90 > then on to 4, 3, > 6, > > > 5, 7, 2. If in fact these are hydraulic lifters...once you > have the free > > > spin out of the push rod, give the ratchet an extra 1/2 to > 3/4 turn. > Once > > > you have these base settings and are reusing the original > cam and > lifters > > it > > > may be necessary to do as your friend suggests and make a > final > adjustment > > > with the engine running. You mention the carb...this > could also be the > > > cause of poor or no idle. If it's a > quadrajet...personally I would > clean > > > and rebuilt it as opposed to the edelbrock. But first > things first, set > > the > > > valves and check the compression. > > > > Ok I just got a chance to work on it again. I pulled the > valve covers and > > set the #1 to TDC and checked the rotor and it was pointing > at the #1 plug > > wire. I figure this was on the compression stroke so I > tightened the > valves > > closed again. (There were few that were loose too) I went on > the next one > > setting the lash again for each one. Some needed it some > didn't. I started > > finished and we started it up. My dad pushed on all the > valves and he > didn't > > tighten any down. So I guess it passed his inspection. While > it was stated > > and with the valve covers off we put it in gear. There > wasn't any > backfiring > > thru the carb this time. I was happy to see that. But we > couldn't advance > > the timing anymore either. And when it got down to what > seemed like a good > > idle. And was checking the timing the mark was very > advanced. Like 1-2 > > inches past the last mark on the timing mark thingy. We > tried to retard it > a > > little and it was coming back too. But then it started > ticking. So we > > advanced it and the ticking stopped. But it is back to where > we started. > The > > carb that is on it now came off my brothers truck and is a > manual chock. I > > don't really know if its a POS. But we bought a Holly II > remained Quadra > or > > Rochester that we are looking to put back on it. The old > carb that we > pulled > > off had an electric choke and this one has a vacuum choke. I > don't know if > > this matters though? > > > > We will put it on in the morning and see what if any > difference it makes. > > But I think that I should add that I had to set the idle > high on the old > one > > just to get it to run and when its turned off there is a > cloud of smoke > that > > comes from the carb and it lingers there like fog. I know > its gas but I > > don't know for sure if its the idle of the fuel pump that is > adding so > much > > gas that it flows like that. My dads truck vapor locks > during hot weather > so > > he put a electric fuel pump in there. And the truck fires > right up. It > could > > mean that his old fuel pump is bad because its not > delivering the gas in > hot > > weather. Or that the electric inline fuel pump is to strong. > > > > When let me know what I can do and if I am missing > something? > > > > D.L. Man > > > > Sounds like you are making some progress. Did you reset ALL > the valves > whether they were loose or not and did you give the ratchet an > extra 3/4 > turn. > Just to rule some things out...did you remove the distributor > or timing > chain at any time. > Check the vacuum advance on the distributor. Take the vacuum > line and suck > the air out and look to see if the rod on the advance is > moving. If it does > not move or cannot hold the vacuum it will need to be > replaced.
Around and around they go with out doing the basic vacum check. Do you want to really help this guy or not?
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"" wrote:
> > > > > > > I agree......It may the wrong base gasket under the > carb causing a > > > major > > > > > > vacuum leak > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sounds like you have a major vacum leak. It is one > of few > places, > > > one > > > > > > > is the gasket under carb, the second is a leak in > vacum power > > brake > > > > > > > booster. third is a defective PCV valve and the > fourth (and most > > > > > > > likely here) is a defective of improperly > installed intake > > manifold > > > > > > > gaskets because you said you just had heads off. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > > > > > I thought that I followed the installation procedure > when I > installed > > > the > > > > > intake. I even waited for the PCV to dry in the > corners before I put > > the > > > > > intake back on. I didn't remove the carb but I will > check all those > > > spots > > > > to > > > > > see how they are sealed. > > > > > > > > > > I was wondering what the compression should be on the > cylinders > > though? > > > I > > > > > did come across a compression tester. > > > > > > > > > > I am not getting all the post in my news reader. I > don't know why > > > either. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Since you did remove the heads it's best to start at the > beginning > where > > > > vacuum is created and go from there. Compression could > be as high as > > > > 150psi. So let's use 100psi as minimum acceptable. > Disconnect the > coil > > > > wire to be sure the engine won't start and set the carb > to stay wide > > open. > > > > Hook up the gauge and turn the engine 4 compression > strokes. Watch the > > > gauge > > > > on each stroke...a low reading on the first stroke which > does not > build > > up > > > > on the following strokes indicates leaking valves, blown > head gasket, > or > > > > even a cracked head. If you have two adjacent cylinders > with similar > > low > > > > compression it's most likely the head gasket not > sealing. > > > > > > > > After you replaced the heads, what method did you use to > adjust the > > > valves. > > > > > > I started at TDC on the #1 piston set the rocker arm by > twisting the > push > > > rod until it had a little drag then I rotated the crank 90 > degrees to > the > > > next cylinder in the firing order and did the same for all > of them. I > got > > > back the #1 plug and set the other rocker by setting the > lash with a > > little > > > drag. I had a friend help that might not have moved the > correct 90 > degrees > > > because he didn't understand why I wasn't setting the lash > while the > > engine > > > was running so I might have over set the lash on a few. I > did notice > some > > > backfiring when I started the car and put a load on it. > > > > > > I think I have to start over setting the lash. And then > check the timing > > > again. If it idles I could check for a vacuum leak in the > intake > manifold. > > > > > > I was going to change the carb because the one on there > sucks. But I > still > > > am not sure where I should be focusing on. The carb I was > looking at is > a > > > edelbrock 650. But I don't know if it will be to much. > > > > > > > > > When starting on #1 TDC lift the distributor cap to see if > the rotor is > > pointing at the #1 terminal. At this point the lifters for > both intake > and > > exhaust should be off the cam lobes (valves closed). Check > the rotor to > > terminal position as you go down the firing order. You more > than likely > have > > hydraulic lifters but the set up you describe would be more > correct for > > solids. Once you know you are on the #1 compression stroke > go ahead and > > adjust both intake and exhaust in the same method as you did > earlier > before > > moving on to #8. Turn 90 then set both for #8. Turn 90 then > on to 4, 3, 6, > > 5, 7, 2. If in fact these are hydraulic lifters...once you > have the free > > spin out of the push rod, give the ratchet an extra 1/2 to > 3/4 turn. Once > > you have these base settings and are reusing the original > cam and lifters > it > > may be necessary to do as your friend suggests and make a > final adjustment > > with the engine running. You mention the carb...this could > also be the > > cause of poor or no idle. If it's a quadrajet...personally > I would clean > > and rebuilt it as opposed to the edelbrock. But first > things first, set > the > > valves and check the compression. > > Ok I just got a chance to work on it again. I pulled the valve > covers and > set the #1 to TDC and checked the rotor and it was pointing at > the #1 plug > wire. I figure this was on the compression stroke so I > tightened the valves > closed again. (There were few that were loose too) I went on > the next one > setting the lash again for each one. Some needed it some > didn't. I started > finished and we started it up. My dad pushed on all the valves > and he didn't > tighten any down. So I guess it passed his inspection. While > it was stated > and with the valve covers off we put it in gear. There wasn't > any backfiring > thru the carb this time. I was happy to see that. But we > couldn't advance > the timing anymore either. And when it got down to what seemed > like a good > idle. And was checking the timing the mark was very advanced. > Like 1-2 > inches past the last mark on the timing mark thingy. We tried > to retard it a > little and it was coming back too. But then it started > ticking. So we > advanced it and the ticking stopped. But it is back to where > we started. The > carb that is on it now came off my brothers truck and is a > manual chock. I > don't really know if its a POS. But we bought a Holly II > remained Quadra or > Rochester that we are looking to put back on it. The old carb > that we pulled > off had an electric choke and this one has a vacuum choke. I > don't know if > this matters though? > > We will put it on in the morning and see what if any > difference it makes. > But I think that I should add that I had to set the idle high > on the old one > just to get it to run and when its turned off there is a cloud > of smoke that > comes from the carb and it lingers there like fog. I know its > gas but I > don't know for sure if its the idle of the fuel pump that is > adding so much > gas that it flows like that. My dads truck vapor locks during > hot weather so > he put a electric fuel pump in there. And the truck fires > right up. It could > mean that his old fuel pump is bad because its not delivering > the gas in hot > weather. Or that the electric inline fuel pump is to strong. > > When let me know what I can do and if I am missing something? > > D.L. Man
When a vehical vapor locks it is because the fuel in the line under hood gets hot enough the boil to vapor under pressure and only vapor is delivered until line is purged. A electric fuel pump can boost pressure and raise vapor temp enough to keep fuel in a liquid state longer. I would still strongly recommand you get a vacum gauge to put on engine to see what it is doing as you try to bring timing back because I still do belive that we are dealing with a vacum leak here that over advanced timing allow it to idle with lean mixtures cause by leak. You can tell a lot about a old engine with a vacum gauge and it is a good tool to have.
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Ok say I have a tester. What should I look for? If I find a line with no vacuum what should I do?
I can get one from the store. I found out they rent them.
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