87 V20 starting trouble

I have had a problem with my 87 V20 4x4 not starting. I have replaced the battery, starter and ignition switch and it still won't start. What am I overlooking? I didn't see any fuses in the fuse block that looked
like they were involved in starting. There is voltage to the headlights but not to the dash when turning the key.
I would stop trying if I didn't love this old truck so much. Thanks in advance.
Jake
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P.S. I forgot to mention.
When I say won't start, I mean not turning at all, no click from starter, no fuel pump whirr, nothing.
Sorry for the P.S.
Thanks again. Jake
jake292 wrote:

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Check for current thru the trans nuetral switch to the purple wire on the solenoid?

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Not yet but, I will tomorrow. Weather permitting.
Shep wrote:

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jake292 wrote:

    Check the fuse-able links. Check the battery cables. Charles
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No dash lights but have headlights. Sounds like a fusable link more likely than a couple of blown fuses. Does any lights come on at all on the dash ? (sos op etc... lights)

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Nope, no dash lights. No responce from at all while turning the key; Acc, Run, Start, nothing. I will say, when this all started, I was in the truck about the fire it up when, the volt gauge started jumping around. From no voltage to max voltage a few times, then nothing.
Any thought about voltage regulator? Could that have gone bad and take the fusable link with it?
Thanks. Jake
69SScamaro wrote:

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Voltage regulator couldn't make the gauge jump up if it was not running. If it jumped when off it probably was a spike as the fusable link burned out. If there was something shorted it would have drawn a lot of current and as the fusable link blew it would have probably caused a spike from the high current flow stopping suddenly. I would measure voltage from all the points. Check for voltage to all of the fuses not as much for a blown fuse but to see which circuits are missing voltage. Remember to turn on key so they should all have voltage present.

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Is the fusible link on the starter switch to starter motor wire in the cab or in the engine compartment? It seems to be well hidden, after looking and testing for some time I cannot find it. Will keep trying but, any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
69SScamaro wrote:

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OK, what's a V20? You said you have had a problem. What fixed it before? Or did it get worse? Was it raining? Or damp conditions? What about the plug going thru the firewall? How about brake lights? Flashers?
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Bill wrote:

    1988 Old Body trucks went from being C/K's to R/V's. V-20 would be a 4WD 3/4 Ton. R/V trucks go from 1988 to 1991. Charles
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I could see why he would want to keep it. Thanks for the info. Shame they do not make them like they used to.
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Got it!! The fusible links were fine. Frustrated, I disconnected the wires from the starter and pulled them out of the harness all the way back to the fuseblock. The wire that feeds voltage to the fuseblock had corroded so badly that it broke off. So, no starter signal, no fuel pump, no fan, no radio.
Thanks everyone. Jake
jake292 wrote:

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They do corrode behind there pretty bad. So it's running now ? Good job...

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Well, it's not running just yet. After a couple days looking I found the correct terminal end that would seat into that monster plug. Now, I'm trying to clean all the light green powder from that location on the fuse block where that plug connects. I called around about a new fuse block but, the dealership doesn't have any info before 1992 and the salvage yards I've been to don't have the years that would work. I'm hoping that the block is something that I can take apart and replace that terminal socket for a better connection.
69SScamaro wrote:

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Ok, I fixed the broken wire in the plug that brings power to the fuse block as well as the connector within the fuse block that said wire couples with. I finally have power to the starter switch but now it goes dead when I turn the key to run or start. I do have power in acc. It is a brand new switch and just to see, I tested the old switch with the same result. I've been told it's probably the ACSU/ECU. Which seems to make sense, electrical short kills ECU. What do you guys think? Is there a way to test my ACSU?
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