'88 Blazer Electrical System Cutout?

Hey Everyone,
Since I fixed my Blazer everything has been running smoothly. I was JUST driving it home when all of a sudden my engine died, the head lights went
out, and my battery idiot light and I think check engine light came on. I rolled it into a gas station, and tried to restart it -- it would crank, but wouldn't start -- I guess no spark?
I did some quick tests. My power windows work, the power locks work, the windshield wipers work, the instrument idiot lights work, as do the gages (but not the backlight). The horn does not work, nor do my headlights, parking lights or interior lights.
The engine was JUST about to be warmed up (~150), no smoke, no bad smells, no sounds. It just cut out.
I couldn't see anything, so I'll have to go back tomorrow AM. If anyone has any ideas what I might check, please let me know.
Thanks in advance, Joe
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Joe Webster wrote:

Joe, I had this problem with my 88 V30 with a 454. The problem turned out to be an intermittent open on a ring terminal at the alternator. HTH, Loren.
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Well as these alternators are not serviceable -- if it was this my only option would be a new alternator? This one is about 3-4 years old.
Thanks, Joe
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Joe Webster wrote:

This was not an internal alternator problem. On my truck (V series, same basic body style as yours, assuming full size K5 Blazer) there are two ring terminals attached to the rear power lug on the alternator. One wire goes directly to the battery via fusible link, the other wire goes to the fuse block under the IP in the truck. The second wire is the b+ for the fuses on the left side of the panel IIRC. These fuses supply power to items that don't require the key to be on i.e.. horn, lights, ECMb. My particular problem was the result of a bad crimp on the second ring terminal. When this happened I would have no lights, no horn, crank but no start. If this happens again, its pretty simple to track down with a test light.
I hope that clarifies it a bit. good luck, intermittent problems suck.
Loren.
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Thanks Loren,
That sounds VERY similar if not exactly the problem I came across. That would also explain the rough idle on startup -- i.e. the ECM was reset and need to 'home' it's sensor readings. This morning I was eyeing wires and three wires caught my attention. The two wires you spoke about, and a thrid going to a isolated connector on the firewall. All three had a SLIGHT bit of corrosion on the ends... causing me to assume that there is more under the plastic of the connector.
The two wires from/to the alternator have something inline -- maybe it's a connector -- or maybe something else -- I'll check the manual tonight... but I'm going to focus on these wires.
I'll let you all know how I make out,
Thanks again, Joe
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Update:
This morning I went back to the truck and it started right up. At first it had a rough idle, but then it quickly (4 seconds?) ironed out.
I drove it back home (about 2 miles), and let it warm up in the drive way. It ran for about 10 minutes, fully up to temp (~210) and all seemed ok. The alt gauge read 14V, and all other gagues were okay.
Not a single problem! I drove it back to my apartment from my parents house -- about 15-20 mins, and gave it hell. Hit every bump I could see, went easy, drove it hard and all over... nothing.
I don't know what is wrong... the only thing I didn't do today was use my heater blower much -- I'll see if that makes a difference.
-Joe
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