89 chevy S10 Rear brake line leak looking for cheap alternative to fix!

Lord have mercy this darn truck has drove me nuts!! Well first I replaced the front brake lines which were leaking due to rust rubbing them raw, just to
discover that after bleeding them there was still no pressure, come to find out it is the rear brake line as well luckily thsi truck has a 4 inch lift so easy to climb under, but for the looks of it the leak is on the top portion of the brake line. just leaking everywhere. Since no men in my family know shit about vehicles I'm at a loss. seems like a small hole, tried JB weld for temp job but no use, is there a cheap alternative to fixing this an hillbilly way without crimping off my brake line? I can't afford or have the know how to replace the whole thing. My idea was to just use pipe cutter and cut the leak portion off and apply high pressure rubber hose overlapping botu a Inch on either side and clamping down still allowing my brakes to function? Is this possible?
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Susanm20 wrote:

How much do you value your life and that of anyone who may ride with you? Brakes are NOT something to do redneck repairs on. Just think about what could happen when you going down the road with the kids in the truck and you step on the brakes and they fail!
The rear line is 1/4" and there should be a coupler where it drops down to the frame. IF the line is solid down to that coupler heat it up and take apart the line there. Then go and buy a couple lengths of new line and bend them to match the old line. The rear connection will likely be a bear to get apart, if it is very rusted you could try taking off the lines that go to the wheel cylinders from the block. The line isn't very expensive and it may be easier. Look around and you can find the parts for less than a night at the movies. I just picked up 2 wheel cylinders, a 25' coil of 1/4", a few fittings, a couple 3/16" lines and the rear flex line for under $100.00. Enough to replace all the lines on my 97 S Blazer. The same parts would fit on yours. I do own the tools to bend and flare the tubing but many places rent them and they are not hard to use.
http://robrobinette.com/flare_brake_line.htm http://www.pharmacy.arizona.edu/staff/wunz/NoABSTCS/DoubleFlare.html
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Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
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Steve W. wrote:

And you don't even have to completely remove the old line right away if you can't get it out, just slide the new in beside it. You may need to make more than one trip to the parts store by the time you get the right lengths. I did my 88 and it took three or four different pieces coupled together.
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there are also couplers that you can just cut the leaking spot out of the line and install a coupler in the line to fix the leak. a good brass coupler costs about 4.00 and has compression parts that will last forever. old john

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No way in Hell would I trust compression fitting for brake lines. It's your life and the lives of your passengers. Double flare fittings are the only safe repair for brake lines. -- Old Crow "Yol Bolson!" '82 FLTC-P "Miss Pearl" '95 YJ Rio Grande BS#133, SENS, TOMKAT, MAMBM
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Old Crow wrote:

Yes, and quite frankly once I see any surface rust worthy of mention I just replace them. Here are the priorities in order:
1. Stopping 2. Steering 3. Everything else
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There are two types of people who use compression fittings on brake lines; morons and morons.
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snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net wrote:

And in many states the brass compression fittings are not legal for use on brake lines.
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Near Cooperstown, New York
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