only if its blowing 38 degree air
I bet it isn't,so that indicates a leak and you are low on freon.
Now is it a very slow leak or a recent leak?
Converting to R-134a at an AC shop would be best.
No, that CRAP they sell at walfarts autozombies etc is CRAP, those DIY kits
are a JOKE.
: Is it normal for the S10's A/C compressor to cycle off and
: on about 6 times a minute at moderate speeds?
In that case, it's normal. :)
Actually it's currently right at 40 degrees at highway
speeds on an 80-degree day. I've tried cranking the pressure
sensor up and down. At a few pounds higher PSI the cycling
gets quite rapid (about a 3-second cycle), at a few pounds
lower PSI (where it is now) it cycles about once every 10
seconds at cruising RPM's or not at all at lower RPM's. I
may try cranking the sensor down even more to see if that
will completely stop the cycling without freezing the system
up - but first I wanted to make sure I wasn't trying to fix
something that ain't broke.
The high-side pressure is a touch higher than I'd like and
from the way it cycles I'd say that the low-side pressure
wants to be just a wee bit lower than it should be. Not
enough that I'd worry if the system were working right, but
if there's a problem then the slightly-off pressures might
be telling me that a screen or orifice is partially blocked.
However I'm not going to open the system up again unless the
problem gets worse. The compressor cycling is a little
annoying but it isn't going to hurt anything, and I can
easily live with 40-degree air.
Neither. After assembly I vacuum-tested it. Then, just to be
sure, I added a UV dye when I pressurized it.
True enough for the average consumer but any halfway
competent driveway mechanic should be able to do a R134A
conversion themselves. Problems are rare if you do the job
right - in other words, if you flush all the old oil out of
the system, replace all non-R134A components with quality
parts, draw a vacuum, and test and refill by-the-book.
They're worse than a joke, they're a fraud that's not only
cheated millions of consumers but in many cases ruined their
expensive A/C components. I don't know how the manufacturers
get away with it.
I wish I'd read this before I converted mine. I didn't see where the
consumer conversion kit said anything about flushing out a system to
get the old oil out
but followed the directions and I haven't had any problem with mine
for well over a month now. Its not as cold as I'd like, but its not
If it has any leaks they must be very slow leaks because I'm not able
to add any additional r134a since I first filled it up. The system
darned near empty, almost no pressure, before I started and I have no
way of knowing how
long it had been that way. The power plug to the compressor was
disconnected and fried
like someone had taken it off when the engine was hot and left it on
intake manifold. Chevy dealer told me the compressor was out because
he couldn't spin the clutch on it by hand. All it needed was to be
in. Is it any wonder why people don't like dealers? My walmart
kit has worked fine so far.
I just finished a R134A conversion, and did it by the book
(replaced hoses, evaporator, compressor, etc, drew a vacuum,
monitored low and high-side pressures as I added R134A, and
so on). More likely it's a clogged orifice or somesuch. I
just wanted to be sure before I went looking for a problem
that may not exist - on some vehicles, it's normal for a
compressor to cycle off and on at about that rate to keep
the evaporator from freezing up.
well I can tell you that fast cycling of the compressor is a classic
sign of low freon. Thats not to say that maybe one of the switches
incolved in the systtem may be faulty.
Any time you replace the compressor or any majore component
you need to replace the orfice tube also.
On Thu, 26 Jun 2003 20:41:20 GMT, techie
How do you draw a vacuum at home? My last conversion, my mechanic let
me use his A/C vacuum machine, but that's 20 miles away, and I have
another car I want to convert.
On Thu, 26 Jun 2003 01:38:18 GMT, techie
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