Advice Requested.after intake repair

Scotch Brite, huh...? I would never use one on an assembled engine...or even on any component after hot-tanking!

Him not doing what you requested isn't being a 'trusted Mechanic' now is it? I think I would have a long talk with your 'trusted Mechanic' about this issue. I will say this though, its amazing how clean something can be kept with balled up paper towels and a small shop vac.

For the particles to get to the bearings they would have to go through the oil filter...not likely. Now cylinder walls...THAT would be far more likely. That and oil pump impellers. Neither of which are near as soft as bearing surfaces. If there was gonna be any damage, it would have happened already.

I don't know if he used a scotch brite pad but at least a wire brush was used to clean the heads. I don't completely understand why... All of the intakes I have ever done nothing more was required then 5 min with a single edge razor and some carb cleaner to clean the gasket surfaces...

Well... I checked the oil today and it turning dark. Which was a shock as it was a clean as a bell before I left his shop. I went ahead and drove it around for 20 miles and then changed the oil as hot as I could get it (wanted to get it all in suspension). What came out was dirty but it appeared to be soot, no metal at all and nothing was stuck to the magnetic drain plug. The oil filter actually had a very fine black sludge in it but also nothing that was metallic. I ran my fingers though the oil and oil filter spoils and I could not feel any grit what so ever, so the material was fine enough I could not feel it. I will keep an eye on it and change it in a hundred miles or if it starts to get dirty before then, I will change it again and again if necessary. Everything else is ok, oil pressure is as before, temp is ok and it runs smooth. No unusual sounds or smells...

Thank you to all who offered advice it was appreciated.

mark

"r_d" wrote

Just had my favorite mechanic change the intake gasket on my 91 suburban (350). Specifically asked him not to use a scotchbrite pad to clean the heads but he did anyway.

I suppose your next post will be;

Oh, never mind. I was just dreaming.

I wish, I did not see him do the job so I am still giving him the benefit of the doubt. Since I did not find any metal particles I am hoping that it was a wire brush. When I asked him not to us the scotch brite he responded, "we always do it that way and have never had any problems" so I assumed when I saw the scratches on the heads... But I am willing to go with your suggestion....that one is cheaper. :)

mark

When ever you remove parts for service, you disturb sediment and sludge build up. So finding this in the oil after 3 or 4 hours is not unusual. Charles

The issue is with Rol-Lock disks, not with Scotch-Brite pads. Both 3M products, Both come in Red/Maroon Medium Grit. Yet Both are Totally Different.

Rol-Lock disks have a compressed Media, which is placed in a press, with a natural(1 inch thick) Rubber disk. The Press heats to 450 to 700 Degrees Fahrenheit(232 to 370 C). Then with 55 to 70 TONS of pressure presses the disk to the backing, the heat adheres the disk to the rubber, the die in the press shapes the rubber, and the heat turns the rubber in to a hard plastic like material.

Scotch-Brite Pads on the other hand come in 6 foot tall by 4 foot wide

1000 pound rolls. Then are cut in to 4 inch by 8 inch pads in rotary head stamper.

If you ask someone not to use Scotch-Brite, they will not think you mean Rol-Lock disks.

Anyone Cleaning a head sealing surface should seal the ports with rags. Then blow the area off or vacuum the area. Charles

Scotch-Brite isn't made of metal...Steel wool is...Steel wool on an assembled engine is, well....hmph...its your engine. I would never go to that 'Mechanic' to check my tire pressure! Good luck!

So it probably is just soot/dirt as suggested. I am going to stay on top of it and see what happens. Thank you all for all your help, I just need to get somebody else's opinion.

Your help was appreciated.

mark