Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on?

This summer I've done more work on cars myself than ever before. I started to think that I want have this truck long enough to need to repeat some of the repairs I've done. With that in mind, I've started to use liberal amounts of Anti-Seize compound when I throw everything back together.

Hence, the reason for the post. Are there any parts I should avoid using the Anti-Seize on? Are there some parts that would have their lifespan or effectiveness hindered?

Thanks.

Reply to
jake292
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Reply to
Shep

if the instruction for installation says to USE LOCKTITE, then donnot use ANTI SEIZE!

jake292 wrote:

Reply to
no one

I dis-agree on lug nuts. Which is probably the most over-torqued item on most vehicals on or off the road. I apply anti-seize to the lug studs on my personal vehicals that I drive on the street.

Im also so Anal Retentive that I thread each lug nut down by hand. If a lug doesn't come off "just" right, Ill pitch it and get a new one. Nor will I let some idiot at a tire shop put wheels on my car. Charles

Reply to
Charles Bendig

Reply to
Shep

How about the threads on either side of tie rod ends? Actually, I hope it ok because I already did it. There's a second nut to lock the tie rod end on the one side and a cotter pin in the other. I just wanted it to go easier the next time I might need to replace them.

Shep wrote:

Reply to
jake292

Do NOT use Anti-Seize on bearing fits or any other press fit. That nice silver color is metal powder and it takes up clearance. Metal powder is also not something you would want to wind up in bearings or gears as it accelerates wear.

I don't use any lubricant at all on wheel nuts since I found that they wouldn't stay tight unless they were dry. In the old days removing the hubcaps guaranteed you would break studs. These days the nuts are not drilled through and they don't rust on like they used to even here where we have enough salt on the road in the winter to harden your arteries.

Reply to
The Nolalu Barn Owl

Reply to
Shep

Not really as long as you are not using it where the anti sieze can contaminate something else. Myself I have been using grease or 90w oil for years with excellant results especailly in rust prone areas.

Reply to
SnoMan

Thing rust nearly as bad here in Ohio. It not just from road salt either. Vehicles left sitting for a few months will develop rust in odd places. Galvanic corrosion, Rust & seized up things cost me way to much extra time. Charles

Reply to
Charles Bendig

sorry, but every mechanic I've talked to, and every repair manual that mentions lug studs, say not to use antiseize on them.

It makes sense to me what you're doing-- but then so does the issue about proper torque values. :shrug: Somebody that knows more than me want to chime in? I wouldn't mind not having to fight rusted fasteners every time I take the wheels off my 4X4,. either....

Reply to
burntkat

Reply to
Mike Powers

With the advent of 100 thousand mile spark plug change intervals, a lot of people recommend using anti-seize on the plug threads. There are pro's and con's to this, but just be sure not to get any on the insulator or the electrodes. The particles in the anti-seize are conductive and can cause a misfire.

Dave

Reply to
Hairy

uh, hello? This has NOTHING to do with 100,000 mile changes.

People in the know have been putitng antiseize on spark plug threads since the 60s at least-- it all has to do with having dissimilar metals together-- the antiseize keeps them from reacting together and seizing up.

I vividly remember putting antiseize on the threaqds of the spark plugs in my dad's old MGB when I was 5 years old or so. Don't think it was even an aluminum engine...

Reply to
burntkat

Hi

This has NOTHING to do with 100,000 mile changes.

Thanks for your opinion.

Dave

Reply to
Hairy

No, but it has to do with time passing...it takes time to reach 100K, and time is what it takes for rust to form.

Dissimilar metals isn't the only reason to use. Stainless Steel nuts and bolts need it to prevent galling.

Reply to
Tony

I use Anti-Seize on my cars, been doing it for at least 20 years. I know the book says they should be clean and dry but I feel the important thing is that the torque is equal. If the studs are rusty the torque won't be equal, you know the people working in the tire shop aren't going to clean them. I put anti-seize on them once the first time I rotate my tires, I also apply it around the hub. I applied it 17 years ago to my 1988 Oldsmobile and have never had to had to re-apply it.

Al Bottoms Up Diver

Reply to
ajtessier

You just brought back memories of a 87 Cavalier 4 door. 2.0 fuel injected automatic. Dang number 3 spark plug siezed in the head. Left the threaded shell, broke off just above the nut. The customer decided to just part it out rather then paying me to fix it. Charles

Reply to
Charles Bendig

I know dissimilar metals aren't the only reason to use. I also know that rust takes time to form. However, it has nothing to do, directly, with the 100,000 mile service interval [which is complete horseshit, BTW]

Correlation does not equal Causation.

Reply to
burntkat

On your period this week, huh? Take a Midol and call me in the morning.

Dave

Reply to
Hairy

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