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Are there any parts I shouldn't use Anti-Seize on?

The time it takes for "rust" or oxidation to form is dependent upon (1) the dissimilarity of the two metals in contact -- dissimilarity in the scale of noblest to least noble metal, i.e., the further apart in the scale the two metals are, the more galvanic action; and (2) the solution the two metals are "immersed" in, e.g., saltwater really speeding up the process.

Anti-seize compound is made up of aluminum powder/paste, i.e., quite conductive, but may, in itself, be the sacrificial "anode" between two other dissimilar metals.

Anti-seize' main purpose is not to halt or slow down rusting/oxidation, although it may do just that depending upon the situation -- its main purpose is to... TADA!!! prevent seizing of parts. It can be used successfully and without downstream issues on head bolts, starter bolts, intake/exhaust manifold bolts/studs, exhaust flanges, mating exhaust pipes/mufflers, (not on any internal engine component, all external applications, especially if exposed to the elements), and lug nuts.

The key to using on any torque value-sensitive task is (A) cleanliness of the mating parts PRIOR to conservative application of the anti-seize compound (the micro-welds between the mating parts are decreased somewhat but not enough to affect holding capacity while the surface imperfections are filled in by the very soft aluminum powder -- end result is no galling during tightening or loosening); and (B) torquing gradually to spec, then retorquing after a certain period of time or use.

Worst thing to use on closed/capped lug nuts is grease -- ask any Porsche purist...

Franko

also know

do, directly,

horseshit,

Reply to
Franko
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Your quote: "it all has to do with having dissimilar metals together-- the antiseize keeps them from reacting together and seizing up."

Well, it seems from what you said, you didn't imply any reason other than dissimilar metals.

If you took the time to apply some reason, you'd see the parent to your post indicated that it would be a good idea to use the 100K service interval to apply to the plugs.

Got it, Jr?

Reply to
Tony

very inteesting post, Frank- what's the Porsche bit about?

Reply to
burntkat

Hello burntkat,

Porsche lug nuts are of the "closed end" type and are designed to torque down leaving a very small gap to the tip of the wheel lugs/studs. Owners using axle grease on the lugs and nuts would inevitably squeeze the excess into this gap -- the grease has nowhere else to go. The owners would torque down the lug nuts to spec not knowing that the incompressible grease was not allowing the nuts to hold the wheels on tightly enough. I did not hear of any wheels flying off but common problems were bent rotors, damaged alloy wheels, and irregularly worn tires (in that order of occurrence). This was back in the 80's. I had called my close friend in Long Island who had a 911 Targa (still has it, actually) to ask him if he was still greasing the studs -- he laughed and said the anti-seize he switched to as advised by his mechanic worked "much better because your hands don't get greasy anymore rotating the tires."

Conservative application of anti-seize on very clean mating parts, gradual torquing to spec, then retorquing after a certain period of time or use. Good stuff if used properly.

Regards, Franko

Reply to
Franko

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