Axle woes have returned...need a lifespan estimate.

Might be safer to try to find a rear end around there and have it installed to get it home.

Well...that option has been explored.

I did locate a used 10-bolt with 3.08 gears for $350 + tax, free delivery in the area, and a shop willing to install it for $225.

Realistically, what's involved in swapping one out if me and someone else were to attempt it? I don't have a lift or access to one obviously... Could I jack it up, remove the wheels, then lower the frame onto jackstands and do it that way? I know it'd be a tight fit, but I'm really on a budget here.

If that option is feasible, what will need to be replaced? I'm assuming the rear u-joint should be while I'm under there, but what about the u-bolts holding the axle to the leaf springs?

Anything else?

~jp

Shades (at dot) wrote:

bring new u bolts, breaker bar, or an impact with some ass, a torch would be nice as well

10 bolt axles a basically pretty cheap in bone yards as they are not like 10.5 inch 14 bolts or D60's that are in demand. That axle was used for 73 until 91 in blazers (after that to but different spring pad spacing) so they are not hard to find in just about any bone yard. Just find one that has no been sitting in the dirt for a few years. There was also some 12 bolt axles that were used from 67 till 75 or so and they will bolt in too. It you had it rebuilt 9 months ago, you either got rpped off or it got full of dirt or water and fluid was not changed because they do not wear out that quick unless you are running reaaly big tires and in which case I would not waste time putting another 10 bolt in it/ Look for a 9.5 inch 14 bolt semi floater as they can be had with 6 lug hubs and are about the equal of a D60 in strength. (there is the 10.5 inch 14 bolt full floater which is about the equal of a D70 but it has 8 lug hibs and weighs a lot more too) Also, GMC pickups 67 up thru 72 orso had D44 rear axles in 1/2 tons and this is another option too.

----------------- The SnoMan

I would not do it with good air tools anymore. THey can make a nasty job go pretty quick.

----------------- The SnoMan

It better be complete and 100% good for that price!

free

Not bad..

Only if you are swapping between a 10bolt and a 12bolt and/or if its bad...your on a budget remember...

It would be a good idea. Check if they were replaced durring the rearend rebuild...your on a budget remember...

TOOLS!!! Torch for the u-bolts(if replacing), breaker bar and 6pt. deep well impact socket to tighten(loosen?) the u-bolts, line wrench for the break line, combo wrench for the u-joint retainer, GOOD floor jack(2.5T), 4 wheel chocks for the front and rear of both front tires, with the lack of a lift, use a stack of foundation blocks...2 side-by-side style stacking(holes verticle), NOT single stacking. Use a piece of 2x10 or so between the frame and blocks. Grease gun, 80W-90, brake fluid, etc, tools, etc, etc...

Running stock tire sizes--31"... I don't know what happened. It was fine and showed no weird symptoms. There was no leakage of fluid onto the driveway, either when I'd park in the carport (flat, level surface) or in the driveway (steep grade). It seems to have happened at once.

In a roundabout way, I can add the axle to the list of things that the engine fire cost me. If that'd never happened, the truck would've been on the road for those 6 months and I probably would've had axle failure much sooner--while it was still under warranty.

I still have access to a free 14 bolt, but that's not a Sunday afternoon project, nor does the free axle make the conversion free, or even cheap. Plus, it's a 1-ton 14 bolt, not the 3/4 ton version. I think they're identical, but don't the 1-ton versions have their spring perches welded onto the tubes in a different location?

~jp

SnoMan wrote:

Well, I don't have the ability to go junkyard hunting right now, and if I did, I wouldn't have a way to haul the axle home. Luckily, I have a friend up in TN that actually has a trailer and can go pick it up.

Noted...

Noted...

A torch might affect the budget. What about hacksawing or using a grinder to remove them (if the nuts are stuck on there)??

~jp

No there are the same if it is the same body style and a SRW axle (actually axles are the same here though depending on year it might be a D70 or a 10.5) Perhaps when your rear axle was rebuilt, they set the pinion preload too high which would toast the pinion bearings and seal with time due to excessive heat that it would cause. If you could trade for a 9.5 inch 14 bolt it is a sanday project to install it as it is basically a bolt in and it is a very sturdy axle that you will never tear up easily in your blazer. A plus with it is that it even supports a ARB and other lockers than 10.5 does not and even the GM GovLoc is a lot sturdier in it than in the 10 bolt.

----------------- The SnoMan

Try the link below, it has worked for me more than once

----------------- The SnoMan

They are hard steel and would require a supply of HIGH quality blades and ALLOT of elbow grease! A cut-off wheel on an electric grinder would be MUCH faster with good wheels and a great grinder. Check your local pawn shops for a small portable Oxy-Acetylene torch. You also might consider a rent=all place in the area of your stranded K5...

Well, I'll try a breaker bar first... if that doesn't work, we'll do what we need to do.

Since they were removed back when the axle was rebuilt, it's possibly that they might be able to be removed without too much hassle...but only if my luck changes...

~jp

Shades (at dot) wrote:

I wish you good luck my Friend...

Put it on a trailer and tow it home. PEP Boys, that makes me shudder. Whitelightning.

If you have access to air and have a 3/4 inch impact, they will come off. (they will either unscrew or wring off but they will come off) Also I ALWAYS grease the threades when I put it back together with 90w oil. It keeps it from rusting on and will allow you to remove them again if need be.

----------------- The SnoMan

PEP Boys...? Who said anything about PEP Boys?

I did in the original post... That was at the time the closest and most available shop.

~jp

Shades (at dot) wrote:

Do the u-bolts need to be torqued to a certain spec?

~jp

SnoMan wrote: