Ok, maybe my good deal wasnt' so good after all. The beast; 91 Blazer
S-10, 2 door 4.3 (4x4). It runs good, but after running a tank of gas
thru it, I noticed it had blue smoke this morning after I started it up
the first time. It's been sitting for a week. It only puffs blue
after I rev it up and let off on the gas. So, is that bad intake or
Ok, consensus seems to be valve guides and seals. So, that means
pulling off the heads, might as well do a full valve job then, Then, as
long as you have the head off, isn't it a good idea to do rings and
You don't have to pull the heads to do this. Valve covers and a spring
compression tool IIRC will do the trick for you. I do recommend taking the
hood off if you choose to go this route though, as banging your head on the
roof while doing the rear sets isn't all that fun. Also by doing them in
vehicle, you save yourself from having to deal with extra gaskets and such.
But as you mention, if you go the route of pulling them, you can refresh the
whole top end. Depends on your needs, time, skill, and money :-)
You'll play hell getting the oil pan off the motor with the engine in the
vehicle if it's 4X4.
It can be done-- but for al the disassembly, it's almost easier to take the
damn engine out.
Then, if you're like me, and you have the money, pay Advanced for a reman
unit and replace the whole friggin' engine. 8)
I"d start with just the valve seals first. You can do this
for a lot less money then pulling the heads. You can also
check the guides for excessive play while you are doing
the valve seals (you must be careful at this point, as you
don't want to drop the valve down inside the engine).
Then if you happen to find a worn valve guide, you can
make your decision as to whether you want to pull
the heads. There is a good chance though, that new
valve seals will solve most if not all of your problem.
you can change the seals w/o pulling the heads by
using a adapter from a universal compression tester
and hooking it up to a compressed air source,
this will pressurize the cylinder and hold the valves up.
you can then use a spring compressor to compress the springs and remove the
finally access the guide seal.
if ya wanna do it right then you should pull the heads and
have bronze guides installed and cut them for neoprene
if the motor only smokes at start-up then you don't need oil control rings,
but if it smokes during accelleration then you may wanna drop the pan and
knock the pistons out for a re-ring if there is no ridge at the top of the
indicating a severely worn and out of round bore.
cylinders become oval shaped with wear and the rings conform to this shape
with wear so re-ringing a motor
in this condition would most assuredly be a waste of money as the rings
would never seat correctly resulting in major compression loss past the top
rings and excessive oil consumption.
good luck friend
"jb" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
In my case new stem seals would have been some help, but I ended up
relacing the entire motor.
Got tired of people walking up and telling me that I needed to either
add soe oil or buy another car..... (had a piston slappin that you could
hear from a block away at low speeds)
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