Changing ball joints on 2002 S10 4WD

$800 qoute from shop for this. Ouch!!!
Scale of 1 to 10 how hard is this to do at home and are special tools required?
thanks.
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On Oct 29, 4:27 pm, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

I am getting ready to do this on my 99 Silvy so this might help you also
There is a tool you can buy (or rent from a Auto parts store that rents tools) that is made for just this. I have found them on line for about 75 bucks for the basic kit, plus about 45 more for the GM specific parts. Here is a link to it.
http://djvmerchandise.com/pro1136436.html
Not too hard to do your self with this, no need to remove the arm from the vehicle only to drop the torsion bar and shock, then seperate the ball joint from the spindle.
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On Oct 29, 4:27 pm, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

I am getting ready to do this on my 99 Silvy so this might help you also
There is a tool you can buy (or rent from a Auto parts store that rents tools) that is made for just this. I have found them on line for about 75 bucks for the basic kit, plus about 45 more for the GM specific parts. Here is a link to it.
http://djvmerchandise.com/pro1136436.html
Not too hard to do your self with this, no need to remove the arm from the vehicle only to drop the torsion bar and shock, then seperate the ball joint from the spindle.
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On Oct 29, 4:27 pm, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Thanks for the reply. Looks like mine are $100 and the store does rent the tool for just a deposit charge. Looks like I need to pick up a manaul and read it and goto it.
thanks again.
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On Oct 29, 6:20 pm, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

I would ask how much they charge for the deposit. I called my local store and they wanted more for the deposit then it cost to buy. SO, i figued since this can be used on just about any vehicle out there, I would buy it since no matter what I drive (short of my motorcycle) I will have to replace ball joints some time.
Here is the instructions for how to use the tool
http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/products/104950.pdf
As far as the truck, you have torsion bars right?
Jack up the front, Slide under to the torsion bar crossmember, carefully loosen the torsion bar adjustment bolt, if you have a gear puller you can use this to take the pressure of the bolt first once the bar is loose, slide it out of the lower control are, remove the shock, using a pickle fork or ball joint seperate, seperate the spindle from the control arm in question, following instruction of tool, remove ball joint,
Reverse all for installation, have alligned.
Spelling omitted tonight, I am exhausted.
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Why go to the trouble of removing the torsion bar? On my old '91 I could support the LCA with a floor jack before popping the ball joint loose and work around it from there.
Is the ball joint press even required on an '02 4x4? Both upper and lower ball joints on my old truck were riveted/bolted on, not pressed in.
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wrote:

Well, one HUGE reason for taking the time to remove the t-bar is for safety sakes. Since the t-bar is the "coil/leaf spring" it is under load, popping the LCA away from the spindle with out doing so will surely get the OP seriously hurt. Besides, it takes an additional 5 minutes to do so, so why wouldn't you.

needed.
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azwiley1 wrote:

NOT on the S series > 4X4 <. They are still riveted on. The 2WD are press in.
And if you wrap a chain around the arm and frame it won't go anywhere.
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Near Cooperstown, New York
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A few minutes to place a chain, a few minutes to drop the bar. I'm sorry, I opt for the safer of the two and will always drop the bar.
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Well again, thinking back to my dear departed '91, those torsion bars were heavily rusted into the control arms. Removing them would not be a five minute job by any stretch of the imagination. A floor jack in the correct place under the arm (where it can't kick out) is perfectly safe and more than adequate. Throw Steve's chain around it for added safety if it makes you feel better.
I'm not arguing your point, removing the bar is definitely the safest way to go, akin to blocking both sides of three tires when you change the fourth. But is it worth the extra effort? No.

S-series.
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Every body always talked about how hard it was to change the ball joints.My 88 s-10 Blazer was easy to do.I didn't take the torsion bar loose.I jacked the front up,placed jack stands under the control arms..enough away from the balljoint..took the wheels off.. let the jack down...removed caliper ..hung it on a wire..took the cotter pins and nuts off and used a pickle fork,then hammered them off from spindel...then ground the rivets off..and just put it back together.The best part was I didn't spend a foturne in labor.
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

You won't need any real special tools to remove the ball joints on the 4X4 S truck. They are almost the same from Just a torque wrench for the bolts for the new joints. The upper and lower ball joints are riveted on. You need to either grind the heads off the rivets and knock the rest out OR drill out the heads and knock out the rest. You may need a pickle fork if you don't have a couple of large hammers. If you have hammers you can put one against the steering knuckle and then give the opposite side a good hit with another hammer. That will usually pop the stud loose from the knuckle.
You need a good jack and a couple jack stands. Pull the tires, brake caliper mount and rotor. Then you loosen the nut and break the stud free. Then remove the rivets. Now you can use a bar to move the upper arm enough to remove the old joint. Install the new one (make sure you install the grease zerk) and torque down the bolts to 17 ft. pounds.
The lower is a pain because the knuckle is in the way and blocks access. You can get at the rivets from below easily though. Be VERY careful with the wiring for the ABS sensors and the brake lines.
The book will tell you that you need to unload the torsion bars and pull the drive axle. You really don't as long as you are careful. You can remove the axle nut and push the outer joint back to gain more clearance if needed.
Oh and if you do want to go by the book I have the factory book on the shelf. (Helm # GMT/02-STOS-1,2,3)
Or you can look at the AutoZone repair guide for the 1999 S-Series and make sure you look at the 4X4 section. Same procedure and parts. http://snipurl.com/1sw15 Just don't believe the pictures since they are showing the tie rod ends NOT the ball joints.
On 4WD vehicles both the upper and lower ball joints are removed in the same manner. Once the joint is separated from the steering knuckle the rivets are drilled and punched to free the joint from the control arm. Service joints are bolted into position with the retaining bolts threaded upward from beneath the control arm. In this manner, the joint is replaced in an almost identical fashion to the upper joints on 2WD vehicles.
1.Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands. 2.Remove the tire and wheel assembly. 3.When removing the upper ball joint, unplug the wheel speed sensor wiring connector from the upper control arm. 4.Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint, then loosen the retaining nut. 5. Position a suitable ball joint separator tool such as J-36607, or equivalent, then carefully loosen the joint in the steering knuckle. Remove the tool and the retaining nut, then separate the joint from the knuckle.
After separating the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint, be sure to support the steering knuckle/hub assembly to prevent damaging the brake hose.
6. Remove the riveted ball joint from the control arm: 1.Drill a 1/8 in. (3mm) hole, about 1/4 in. (6mm) deep into each rivet. 2.Then use a 1/2 in. (13mm) drill bit, to drill off the rivet heads. 3.Using a pin punch and the hammer, drive out the rivets in order to free the ball joint from the control arm assembly, then remove the ball joint.
To install: 7. Position the joint in the control arm, then install the joint retaining nuts and bolts. Position the bolts threaded upward from under the control arm. Tighten the ball joint retainers to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). 8.Remove the support from the steering knuckle, then install the ball joint to the knuckle. Make sure the joint is seated, then install the stud nut and tighten both nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) on 1994 models. On 1995-99 models tighten the lower nut to 79 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) and the upper nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
When installing the cotter pin, never loosen the castle nut to expose the cotter pin hole, but DO NOT tighten more than an additional 1/6 turn.
9. Use a grease gun to lubricate the upper ball joint. 10. If the upper ball joint was removed, attach the wheel speed sensor wiring connector to the upper control arm. 11. Install the tire and wheel assembly. 12. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle. 13. Check and adjust the front end alignment, as necessary.
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Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
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On Oct 29, 4:27 pm, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

I am getting ready to do this on my 99 Silvy so this might help you also
There is a tool you can buy (or rent from a Auto parts store that rents tools) that is made for just this. I have found them on line for about 75 bucks for the basic kit, plus about 45 more for the GM specific parts. Here is a link to it.
http://djvmerchandise.com/pro1136436.html
Not too hard to do your self with this, no need to remove the arm from the vehicle only to drop the torsion bar and shock, then seperate the ball joint from the spindle.
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Wow, talk about a screwed up delay. I got an error msg when I posted this and then it shows up three times
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