$800 qoute from shop for this. Ouch!!!
Scale of 1 to 10 how hard is this to do at home and are special tools required?
thanks.
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$800 qoute from shop for this. Ouch!!!
Scale of 1 to 10 how hard is this to do at home and are special tools required?
thanks.
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--------------------------------- --- -- - Posted with NewsLeecher v3.9 Beta 2 Web @
I am getting ready to do this on my 99 Silvy so this might help you also
There is a tool you can buy (or rent from a Auto parts store that rents tools) that is made for just this. I have found them on line for about 75 bucks for the basic kit, plus about 45 more for the GM specific parts. Here is a link to it.
I am getting ready to do this on my 99 Silvy so this might help you also
There is a tool you can buy (or rent from a Auto parts store that rents tools) that is made for just this. I have found them on line for about 75 bucks for the basic kit, plus about 45 more for the GM specific parts. Here is a link to it.
Thanks for the reply. Looks like mine are $100 and the store does rent the tool for just a deposit charge. Looks like I need to pick up a manaul and read it and goto it.
thanks again.
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I would ask how much they charge for the deposit. I called my local store and they wanted more for the deposit then it cost to buy. SO, i figued since this can be used on just about any vehicle out there, I would buy it since no matter what I drive (short of my motorcycle) I will have to replace ball joints some time.
Here is the instructions for how to use the tool
Jack up the front, Slide under to the torsion bar crossmember, carefully loosen the torsion bar adjustment bolt, if you have a gear puller you can use this to take the pressure of the bolt first once the bar is loose, slide it out of the lower control are, remove the shock, using a pickle fork or ball joint seperate, seperate the spindle from the control arm in question, following instruction of tool, remove ball joint,
Reverse all for installation, have alligned.
Spelling omitted tonight, I am exhausted.
You won't need any real special tools to remove the ball joints on the
4X4 S truck. They are almost the same from Just a torque wrench for the bolts for the new joints. The upper and lower ball joints are riveted on. You need to either grind the heads off the rivets and knock the rest out OR drill out the heads and knock out the rest. You may need a pickle fork if you don't have a couple of large hammers. If you have hammers you can put one against the steering knuckle and then give the opposite side a good hit with another hammer. That will usually pop the stud loose from the knuckle.You need a good jack and a couple jack stands. Pull the tires, brake caliper mount and rotor. Then you loosen the nut and break the stud free. Then remove the rivets. Now you can use a bar to move the upper arm enough to remove the old joint. Install the new one (make sure you install the grease zerk) and torque down the bolts to 17 ft. pounds.
The lower is a pain because the knuckle is in the way and blocks access. You can get at the rivets from below easily though. Be VERY careful with the wiring for the ABS sensors and the brake lines.
The book will tell you that you need to unload the torsion bars and pull the drive axle. You really don't as long as you are careful. You can remove the axle nut and push the outer joint back to gain more clearance if needed.
Oh and if you do want to go by the book I have the factory book on the shelf. (Helm # GMT/02-STOS-1,2,3)
Or you can look at the AutoZone repair guide for the 1999 S-Series and make sure you look at the 4X4 section. Same procedure and parts.
After separating the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint, be sure to support the steering knuckle/hub assembly to prevent damaging the brake hose.
To install: 7. Position the joint in the control arm, then install the joint retaining nuts and bolts. Position the bolts threaded upward from under the control arm. Tighten the ball joint retainers to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm). 8.Remove the support from the steering knuckle, then install the ball joint to the knuckle. Make sure the joint is seated, then install the stud nut and tighten both nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm) on 1994 models. On 1995-99 models tighten the lower nut to 79 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) and the upper nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
When installing the cotter pin, never loosen the castle nut to expose the cotter pin hole, but DO NOT tighten more than an additional 1/6 turn.
I am getting ready to do this on my 99 Silvy so this might help you also
There is a tool you can buy (or rent from a Auto parts store that rents tools) that is made for just this. I have found them on line for about 75 bucks for the basic kit, plus about 45 more for the GM specific parts. Here is a link to it.
Wow, talk about a screwed up delay. I got an error msg when I posted this and then it shows up three times
Well, one HUGE reason for taking the time to remove the t-bar is for safety sakes. Since the t-bar is the "coil/leaf spring" it is under load, popping the LCA away from the spindle with out doing so will surely get the OP seriously hurt. Besides, it takes an additional 5 minutes to do so, so why wouldn't you.
Why go to the trouble of removing the torsion bar? On my old '91 I could support the LCA with a floor jack before popping the ball joint loose and work around it from there.
Is the ball joint press even required on an '02 4x4? Both upper and lower ball joints on my old truck were riveted/bolted on, not pressed in.
NOT on the S series > 4X4
A few minutes to place a chain, a few minutes to drop the bar. I'm sorry, I opt for the safer of the two and will always drop the bar.
Well again, thinking back to my dear departed '91, those torsion bars were heavily rusted into the control arms. Removing them would not be a five minute job by any stretch of the imagination. A floor jack in the correct place under the arm (where it can't kick out) is perfectly safe and more than adequate. Throw Steve's chain around it for added safety if it makes you feel better.
I'm not arguing your point, removing the bar is definitely the safest way to go, akin to blocking both sides of three tires when you change the fourth. But is it worth the extra effort? No.
S-series.
Every body always talked about how hard it was to change the ball joints.My 88 s-10 Blazer was easy to do.I didn't take the torsion bar loose.I jacked the front up,placed jack stands under the control arms..enough away from the balljoint..took the wheels off.. let the jack down...removed caliper ..hung it on a wire..took the cotter pins and nuts off and used a pickle fork,then hammered them off from spindel...then ground the rivets off..and just put it back together.The best part was I didn't spend a foturne in labor.
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