Chev 1989 4x4 heater vent

hi
anyone have any advice on the easiest way to check if my heater vent is closing properly ?
Im not getting much heat so i think it must be partially open.
Should i go at it from under the dash on passenger side, behind the glove box etc ?
thanks argos
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drop the glove box all the way down and look at the cable bracket which controls the vent door. Slide the control and watch the cable at the end. Is the bracket broken or the cable pulled out ?

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Black Dog's reply answers this question (But don't drop the glove box down, simply pull it out)... But I would like to add that my 89 4X4 never had any heat either.... it's been like that since brand new. The book says (Clinton) the air temp coming out of the vents at full heat should be about 140 F... More like 70 if I'm lucky. I've been meaning to 'fix' this for years now. I'm sure the cable needs adjusting... another one of those "next weekend" jobs. Funny thing though, it gets warmer when the fan is on full high (3), but returns to warm at 2. Never understood why 1, and 2 fan speeds are so much slower than #3.... #3 blows hard enough to pressurize the cab for high atmospheric flight.
HDS
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I had the glove box "out" before and i didnt see any problem with the cable or bracket, but i will check again.
Im wondering how can i get at the door/vent or whatever and find out for sure it is closing the right way.
someone told me they had a pencil in theirs one time that was keeping it open a bit .
btw, in your truck , did you ever notice if you got heat when youi parked it and revved the engine? when i do that i get all kinds of heat. but i get about 70 otherwise like you.
I have already changed, my thermostat, heater core, heater core outlet hose, topped up antifreeze etc.
thanks argos

simply
either.... it's

out
I've been

another one of

on
speeds are

high atmospheric flight.

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Ok, I fixed mine... now I have heat!!! Have no idea why I waited 16 years to get this fixed.
Argos, the following instructions are for our 89 chevys WITHOUT AC... but it still might be the same with an AC unit, it's just that I never worked on one with AC:
1. Pull out the glove box. Four hex head bolts on the inside walls hold it in. Use a flat head screw driver to gently bend the box past the tabs that hold the door straps.
2. Inside on the left is a white handle, about in the middle of the air management system, with a cable looped on it. When the white handle is fully pulled back toward the DRIVER'S side, the heater flap is closed for full HEAT. The control cable end has a white plastic adjusting slider with small teeth that is mounted in a black plastic female version.
3. Pinch the end of the white handle, and pull off the cable. Push the handle as far as it will go toward the drivers side. It should stop right about 11:00 o'clock. Set your heat range on full red. If the eye of the cable loop is even just a hair past the mounting point on the white handle, you wont get full heat! (On a really cold day, it would make a big difference).
4. With a fat, flat end screw driver, or a punch, push gently on the white cable end until just a tiny, tiny bit of white is still showing past the black plastic cable mount/holder. Re-attach the cable end/loop to the plastic handle. You might have to set the temp range a'little cooler to align the loop hole to the white handle post, but that's OK... you want a tight seal on that door flap when it's closed. Also, if it is really hard to push the cable adjuster back, make sure the cable is not resting on a small ridge of the upper air management system. Pull it off there so it can have bending room towards the floor.
Bingo, your done.
HDS
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Hi
thanks for the info. interestingly enough i did pretty much what you are describing yesterday afternoon.
the only thing i did different was i adjusted the little teeth thing while the cable was set to MAX heat.
i see now that if i set it a little less than max heat before i adjust the teeth, that it will give me a tighter seal when i push it to MAX heat,
(no one will understand unless they have looked at it :) )
So maybe i will readjust, after the cuts on my hands heal.
the other thing i might do is open the glove box and run the truck and hold the white lever all the way to the left and see if the extra pressure helps at all .
On your cable, where the teeth are connected to the metal bracket, is it pushed into the bracket from the top down or from the bottom up ?
mine is from the top down, meaning the cable runs oiver the bracket, but it seems like it would line up with the white lever betterif it was underneath. (i beleive my truck had the dash replaced at some point)
Waht i would really like to do , is have a look at the door inside. im still convinced there is a pencil or somethign in there.
anywone know how to get at that ?
thanks argos

or
get this fixed.

still might

Use a flat

straps.
management system, with a

DRIVER'S side,

plastic adjusting

as far as it will

your heat range

mounting point on the

a big difference).

cable end until just

mount/holder.
the temp range

that's OK... you want

hard to push the cable

upper air management

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Snip

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My cable 'hangs' under the bracket. Nothing has been done to mine, so that's how the factory set it up.
As far as getting into that flap area... didn't look at it enough to figure that out ... but it looks like a job to get to the top part. I believe you can see the bottom of the flap if you pull the heater core, but that's a guess on my part.
HDS
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ok thanks
now i know my cable is in the wrong place .
yeah it does look like a big job ,
i should have looked under there when i was replaing the heater core :)
thanks argos

pushed
how
that out ... but it looks

flap if you pull the heater

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