chevy/gmc dually

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Hello: Looking to buy a 1996-2000 kc3500 series dually to pull a 2 horse gooseneck trailer. Can only afford one in the $15000 range. Most there have about 80,000 miles or so on them. any advice what to look
for? and when is life of the 350 motor over?
Thanks,
Katie
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On Wed, 16 May 2007 08:01:03 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote:

There is nothing wrong with a 350 motor and it is a proven strudy engine. It basic design dates back to 50's and it is a good design for no inherent weaknesses. When it lacks in towing it is because of vehicle axle ratio, not because it is a 350. If you get a 350, you want atl east a 4.10 axle ratio which is a GT3 option could. If you can find one with a HC4 option code (a 4.56), it wil, tow really well with even a bigger trailer. As far as serive life of engine, if it has had regualr lube changes every 3K miles or so it should last a couple hundred K miles even towing if it is kept cool. The best setup would be a 454 with a GT5 or a 350 with a HC4 as so equipped, it will tow anything you are ever likley to tow behind it. Also 100K miles of towing on a 454 is nothing really if it has been properly maintained. I would stay away for a used one with a 350 if it has towed a heavy load a lot ( 3 ton and more)and it only has a GT5 axle in it. Also lok for trucks that do not have 5th wheel hitches on them now so you know they have nmot been worked too hard. Stay away from trucks with GT4 axle code as it is not good for a 350 to two with and it is kinda marginal for serious towing with a 454. You should be able to find a nice truck for around 10 grand or less as 15K is way too much to pay for even a used 2000 unless it is very low mileage and clean. 88 to 2000 GM dualies were some of the best trucks of their type GM every made and I find them to be sturdier and more trouble free long term than the newer Silverado ones. You want a 96 to 200 modle as they were of the VorTec design and have more mid range and upper RPM power than the 95 and earlier TBI models. BTW, I have a 89 4x4 suburban that I bought new with over 180K miles on its 350 and it is still going strong and using no oil and runs better than ever. It has also seen more than a dozen cross country trips across and through rockies and has been in 25 states and counting. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Thank you snoman.....one last question...im in upstate ny, what is a good tire for a dually when it snows?
Katie
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On Wed, 16 May 2007 10:19:15 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote:

Being that you are in a snowy area, I would get as agressive a tread as possible on a 215/16 85 tire. If you have the money, a extra set of rims for rear with studded tires would help A LOT as dualies tend to be kinda worthelss in 2wd in snow and ice unless you have a go bit of weight in rear. For what it is worth, I run a couple of snow plow trucks here and have for many years and I have extra rims for them so that I can used studded tires on them in winter. SOme consider this extreme but I go out in the worst of couditions and I have never had any "whilte knuckle" experiances in the winter using them. I put them on the rear of my wife 2000 2wd Cherokee too and it outperforms 4x4 versions without them in snow and especailly on ice. You will get no suddentendacy to trade ends with them on. Years ago I used to run on a wholesale show circuit with some friends selling electronic hardware and supplies year round and we used to run studded tires on their tow vehicles towing big heavy trailers in nasty weather and never came close to loosing them. AOme other people doing the circuit without them were not so lucky. BTW, I have a 2000 K3500 SRW (single rear wheel) with a 350 in it that I also bought new as shares the 88 to 99 body style (there were no 2000 1 ton new style Silverados made). It is stock with a GT5 axle ratio (4.10) and it does a good job with what ever i ask it to do. I would have gotten it with 4.56's (HC4) if i could of but it was only a option of DRW models. If you never plan to tow more than a 2 horse goose neck, do not rule out a 3500 SRW as it is quite up to the task too as would good sturdy 2500 too. Also, be advised that 88 thru 99 2500 have stronger rear springs than the newer 2500HD's do (because they were not trying to push a softer ride on them) and they will handle the hitch weight better than a new 2500 HD will. (this is contrary to GVW ratings but my "old 3500 has same GVW rating as the "new" 2500HD but my old 3500 has a lot more beef in rear suspension than 2500HD and even a old 2500 has more beef back there too). One more thing, I used to trailer horses for many years. We used to just do some hard core trail riding (never did any shows) and used to haul my horses all over with a old 3/4 Jeep truck for many years. I got out of them about 12 years ago as it was either get 3 more horse and a bigger trailer or quit them. I miss riding them sometimes and "might" take it up again when kids are out of college. . We had App's and there were great rides with great horse sense on the trail and very sure footed. (I used to ride with a infant in my lap for a while even on rugged trails as my horse was that trustworthy). I had them trained to where they would load and unload from trailer on command. I had a nice big Circle J trailer most of the time I had them. Do not skimp on stall space/size when selecting a trailer like some do as it helps the horses trailer better for longer periods of time if they can move a round a bit. Keeps them a bit cooler too in hot weather. If you by a used trailer, check condition of floor because some do not use heavy matts in them and the animal waste weaks the floor planks. You want a oak floor too. Sorry if I got on my soap box a bit. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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if you are going to pull a trailer use a diesel they have much more power than a gas duramax is a very good diesel also dodge with a cummins is very good also. now the advice snowman gave you about snowtires with using studs in the tires i dont know what state he is in but you use studs here in wisconsin and they catch you it is a very big fine it chews up the roads they may use them in other states but not here you will hafto check with your state to see if they are allowed
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I think NY State may allow for studs in certain areas of the state, but you are correct it is best to check the local laws. Besides, stud would require you to have two sets of tires, one for winter and one for other seasons. I personally would not rec'd studded tires, a good M&S rate tire that is mildly agressive will do you well 98% of the time in Upstate NY.
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azwiley1 wrote:

NY allows studs statewide from October 16 - April 30 Chains are required during a designated snow emergency.
I can count about 15 days I actually needed studded tires on a personal vehicle over the past 20 years. They only work well on ICE and the rest of the time they are just noisy and because your actually riding on the studs you have less traction on bare roads.
--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
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wrote:

They work pretty good in packed snow too. The noise is a draw back but traction loose in minmal on dry/wet pavement and I have NEVER had a vechicle try to trade ends on a icy overpass with them but I have many times in the past without them. It is very cheap insurance. Even if you need then 5 or 10% of the time, the 5 or 10% can be a killer at times especailly towing. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Studs are legal here from Nov 15 till April 15 and anyone that tells you that regualy M+S tires are as good as studded tires 98% of the time has never lived with them and is realy quite clueless on the subject. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Well, I will tell you that I disagree. I was born and raised in Buffalo, NY and have had the previalge of driving with both types of tires. While I will say that when you are dealing with icy road, studs or chains are a much better choise then "plain" tires, however if you are driving in snow, packed or loose, studs are of no real benefit.
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The problem is "loose" snow can pack under tires to ice or near ice especaily when wet and studs do help. Sure you can skate around without them and get by like many do but i choose not to and in my snow plowing bussiness I go out when roads are at their worst and sometimes closed and we get icy storms here from time to time too. Sine I sarted using them years ago they have made driving in the slick stuff a LOT less nerve wracking and even if they only make a big difference 5 to 10% or the time, the 5 or 10% can be a life saver. I run 4 studded tires on plow truck and 2 on rear of wifes 2wd RWD car and that car easily out performce 4x4 's on the slick stuff and never wants to trade ends. They are great for towing on slick stuff too as it just takes on icy bridge or curve without them to really spoil your day. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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wrote:

This is very subjective. Properly geared a 454 will pull ANYTHING a diesel will and quietly too. I get so tired on "you have to have a 1000lbs plus diesel motor " to be able to tow anything well. THat is what automakers would like you to beleive too and tend to gear gas trucks stock so they do not do their best and make the high profit oil burners more attracktive but this can be overcome. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Thanks guys! How much is it to change gears in the rear?
Katie
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On Fri, 18 May 2007 07:37:21 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote:

That depends on if it is a 2wd or 4wd but if you get a 454 with a GT5/4.10 ratio in a dualie, you are not going to need to change gears unless you start getting over 10,000 or 12,000 lbs in trailer weight and tow in hills a lot. A 454 is a great gas tow motor. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote:

Between $1200 and $1800 depending on the prevailing local labor rate, where the parts are sourced from and what all is replaced as part of the job. Naturally, if the truck is 4X4, figure double.
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On Sat, 19 May 2007 20:03:40 GMT, aarcuda69062

Guess again, maybe at a car dealer, around 1400 or so for both axles on a 4x4 abd about half that for a 2wd. The gears are about 225 for rear and under 200 for front for quality aftermarket ones. There is no need to replace bearing in axles with a gear change unless it is have problems as the axles in a truck of that era are pretty sturdy. (many may try to tell you otherwise and like to to milk you for more coin) The D70 it should have in rear is not a labor intesive axle to setup (if you know what you are doing) nor in the front pig with the 9.25 IFS. If you go a acle change route, buy the gears in aftermarket and then shop around for best price and job. If you buy gears and bearings at a dealer figure on paying about 3x what they cost otherwise. Yukon and Precision make a good aftermarket gear and gear for those axles are very easy to come by. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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Unlike you, I don't have to guess. I do this for a living, I know first hand what the finished product sells for.

Maybe that's where they feel most comfortable having the work done.

Just because they can be bought for that price doesn't mean that is what a shop is going to sell them for.

That issue is between the customer and the shop doing the work. No shop in their right mind is going to warranty used parts, but since they're the last ones to touch it, that's what the customer is going to expect. Or, they can have it done by you and get a half assed hammer job with a warranty good for the length of your driveway.

Hey genius, D70s suffer from chronic bearing failures. You'd know that if you actually had a clue.

"best price" equals Walmart mentality.

And if they supply their own parts, they get no warranty and the labor charge is increased. SOP at most shops.
You farmed out your leaking intake gaskets TWICE, why should anyone believe anything you say, especially regarding drive gear servicing?
I'll give you this; if someone wanted advice on how to establish a bad working relationship with their repair shop, you can give very accurate advice.

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hi: How do you find out what gear ratio comes with your truck guys? (96-00 chevy 3500)
Katie
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Look in the glove compartment for a sticker with a bunch of 3 letter/number combinations. One of these RPO codes will tell you. Hopefully someone will post a list if they have one, or you can google RPO codes and find a list.
Tinker

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You can check the RPO codes at www.rpocodes.com.

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