Hey guy I was just wondering if anyone else cam e acrross this
I have a 84 chevy 4x4 all done up mechanically..........
msd ignition ......
everything else stock
the issue at hand is the battery goes dead over nite....
thus I did a draw test.which is putting a test light from the ground
terminal of the battery to the graound cable in sereis.....and if the light
is on then there is a drwa......
what I have done to try to find it......
unhook stereo.............nothing changed
took all the fuses out......nothing
took the brake control out..........nothing
unpluged the colum....nothing
un hook alt .........nothing
unhook hearter motor..nuthing
unhook wiper motor..nothing..........
I am thinking it is in the cluster or the ignition switch........they are
just wondering if anyone else has had this issue.........
Until you can find the problem and to keep from having to jump it off all the
time, install a master batter switch somewhere in the cab or at the battery.
This also works as an exellent theft deterrant.
On my truck it was the under hood worklight, I left it on and about 3 months
later when it sat long enough to draw down the battery to where it wouldnt
start i forgot it had a switch. I checked a lot of stuff before I remembered.
Yeah, I had that problem too. I forgot about it for about 3 weeks on my
96 Tahoe and eventually it got more and more difficult to start until it
totally crapped out. As soon as I touched the jumper cables to the
battery and saw that light pop on I nearly smacked myself silly. Oh
well, it was time to replace the original battery anyway :)
Well I think I found the problem today...I took the ignition swithch and
unpluged it.no changes...so the last thing I has was the gauge
cluster.unpluged it and draw went away...........so no I have to determine
what in the cluster is up.so I take it apart and find out when I unpludg
the gas gauge in the cluster my draw is gone....so it has to be in the gas
curcit of the truck but I do know there is no power going down to the
tanks..just grounds.and I tested the gauge hookup in the cluster
......shouldn't there be no power when key is off to the gauge?????
Lets see....I've been in the 12 volt business for 10 years. In those years,
I've seen all sorts of things that don't agree with Ohms law, as you
For example, import pin switches will cause the same problems. Not only
will a rusty pin switch pad cause the interior light to work intermittently,
or not at all....but it also seems to be the cause of slight voltage bleed.
Clean the pad and the surface, reassemble and the bleed is gone.
Unfortunately your ohms law assertion tells us nothing about this. So....I
figured if it happens with a pinswitch, it could happen with the sending
units ground....thats all.
HINT = not all things in the 12V world make sense
Who says voltage has to remain the same through this bad
connection/ground? Voltage drops low, current shoots up, usually fuses
blow. When they don't, wires heat up & burn things. Bad connections are
the main reason houses burn down when electricity is the culprit. I've
replaced 3 burnt duplex outlets in my sister's house because the
original electrician chose to wire them with the "push in" terminals in
the back. All power sent to the receptacle goes through a tiny metal
tab. Similar episode at work when 2 coffee pots and a refrigerator were
plugged into 1 outlet. Breaker didn't trip, outlet in room on the
backside of the overloaded one had burned out, sending black scorch mark
5 feet up the wall. For this incredibly unsafe reason I never use the
push in terminals, always use the screw terminals.
I've been into electronics since 1970
broadcast engineer and all that, seen more DC circuits than I care to
remember, and one thing is certain:
when voltage goes down, current goes down
HEAT might be created as a result of increased resistance ( P= I x I x R),
but let me assure you that a decrease in voltage across a DC circuit is
always accompanied by a decrease in current through that circuit
now, do you want to re-phrase your premise about why things get hot, or
shall I continue ?
Neato....lets see. there are LOTS of gremlins in dc electronics that cannot
be explained by ohms law on its own. Ohms Law, unto itself, makes perfect
sense. however, mix in age, rust, wear, and the operating characteristics
that differ from one circuit to another, and some cases it isn't always the
explanation. in the 12 volt industry, we see this almost everyday....stuff
that happens and makes no sense at all...
Ya' think because you can install a car stereo, a remote start, a security
system or goddamn neon lights you're in "the 12V industry?" Gimme a
thanks for the free advertising! ;) actually, what you see on that small
website amounts to nothing more
than hobby installations. interesting how defensive people get!! isn't it
always what you /don't/ see that
makes the man?? anyways....I work with 3 local, full time shops in town on
a wholesale product/service
basis year-round So I stay pretty well connected with the comings and
goings of busy shops, and often
participate first-hand in trouble-shooting and "interesting" cases....and
believe me theres LOTS of em.
thanks for the note bud!
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