Clunking from under body

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I have a clunking from under the body. it occurs when hitting small things, like tar strips, with the front wheels. I don't hear it with big whoop-dee-doos. Hows that for a technical term?
It's a 94 T15 Jimmy. How does one tell if the tortion bar mounts are broken? Dan Colorado Springs, CO My advice may be worth what you paid for it.
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Hit all the grease zerks with some grease first (lube the front-end) and then see if you still have a problem. I've seen more "clunks" and "pops" from dry front-end components.
Doc
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Before you start greasing, it's worth checking the front end... And if you find bad components - just replace them (before greasing so you don't add to the grime of it - but don't delay the check-then grease). Use a jack-handle (or about a 2' steel bar) to gently pry on the front end components (center-link, tie-rods), and tires (while off the ground). If anything moves more than a half inch it's time to replace. This process is striaght forward, though others may have better specs on the tolerable looseness. Also, check the CV-joints for obvious looseness. Elliott

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wasn't the question how do you check torsion bar mounts? i didn't see anyone answer that. you check t-bar mounts by prying up on the crossmember that holds the t-bar adjusers. -Pete
Re: Clunking from under body Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sat, Apr 3, 2004, 10:06am From: snipped-for-privacy@nope.com (Doc)
I have a clunking from under the body. it occurs when hitting small things, like tar strips, with the front wheels. I don't hear it with big whoop-dee-doos. Hows that for a technical term? It's a 94 T15 Jimmy. How does one tell if the tortion bar mounts are broken? Dan Colorado Springs, CO My advice may be worth what you paid for it. Hit all the grease zerks with some grease first (lube the front-end) and then see if you still have a problem. I've seen more "clunks" and "pops" from dry front-end components. Doc
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Pete, Yea you're correct on his original question. Do you know the spec on the movement? Other front end components? I've always just used a judgment of what 'looked' Ok or not (ie: one side vs the other) - but surely someone has a 'correct' spec. Haynes quotes .005" for the wheel bearing - though I'm not sure how one would see that with the ball joints allowing allot more than that (no I don't know the spec on the ball-joints) - does anyone here??? Elliott snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (pete carb) wrote in message

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Doc, At least I offered a helpful suggestion to his problem. Rather than looking for fault in me why don't you provide your own instructions to actually help someone? After the way you harp on safety over a Drive Shaft that's fine you tell this person to just add grease to shut it up??? Without checking it??? and then attack me for suggesting he test it - cause you're picking on a specific spec? That's not good Doc - I thought you'd do better. Can you look up the spec and tell us what it is? The 1/2" I suggested is obviously dependent on where you're looking at the movement (and certainly not in a ball-joint). I don't know the spec but I have decided some were good and decided others were bad - and yes I have replaced front-end parts (ball-joints, center-links, tie-rod-ends, etc). Did the Camaro's full front end in the middle of a 2000mi trip cause it wasn't safe. Elliott

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those parts looked like!!
~KJ~
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My wife says she can hear me coming from down the street. Dan

Colorado Springs, CO My advice may be worth what you paid for it.
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Dan, Have you tried push/pulling on the wheels? Can you jack a front wheel (the side that clunks) off the ground and push/pull to see if you can recreate the sound? Since you said it happens w/ tar-strips and other tiny bumps in the road, you should be able to find it that way. And if you cannot, your original speculation "tortion bar mounts are broken" may be correct. And per Pete Carb "you check t-bar mounts by prying up on the crossmember that holds the t-bar adjusers." Of coarse be careful getting under it - use a jack stand or at least something solid to hold the vehicle once elevated. Please don't just grease and forget - it could be serious. Elliott
Dan Dunphy wrote:

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Doc, I don't think you're just greasing them and sending them on their way - if it's that dry I'd bet you look it over pretty good (even the Jiffy-lube guys do that much). The older stuff I've seen w/ dry clunkin ball-joints weren't safe. Some were dry because the boot was broke and others from pure neglect - either case they were untrustworthy (and moved too much when pried on). I wouldn't recommend he just grease it w/o checking it too. Maybe you can provide a better check-out procedure than I can - and that would be better for him than some sport of finding fault in me. Elliott

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i could see a dry ball joint or other component squeakingm but not really clunking. -Pete
Re: Clunking from under body Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sun, Apr 4, 2004, 1:20pm (EDT-3) From: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net (Elliott) Doc, I don't think you're just greasing them and sending them on their way - if it's that dry I'd bet you look it over pretty good (even the Jiffy-lube guys do that much). The older stuff I've seen w/ dry clunkin ball-joints weren't safe. Some were dry because the boot was broke and others from pure neglect - either case they were untrustworthy (and moved too much when pried on). I wouldn't recommend he just grease it w/o checking it too. Maybe you can provide a better check-out procedure than I can - and that would be better for him than some sport of finding fault in me. Elliott
I have a clunking from under the body. it occurs when hitting small things, like tar strips, with the front wheels. I don't hear it with big whoop-dee-doos. Hows that for a technical term? It's a 94 T15 Jimmy. How does one tell if the tortion bar mounts are broken? Dan Colorado Springs, CO My advice may be worth what you paid for it. Hit all the grease zerks with some grease first (lube the front-end) and then see if you still have a problem. I've seen more "clunks" and "pops" from dry front-end components. Doc
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Yeah Pete I've heard dry front ends pop and crack but not really a clunk. That's usually a good indicator that something's wrong. But I guess none of us can hear it, so all of the opinions are good. My general rule of thumb on front end components is if there is any movement under pressure of a pry bar I would probably replace it.
nospam
I have a clunking from under the body. it occurs when hitting small things, like tar strips, with the front wheels. I don't hear it with big whoop-dee-doos. Hows that for a technical term? It's a 94 T15 Jimmy. How does one tell if the tortion bar mounts are broken? Dan Colorado Springs, CO My advice may be worth what you paid for it. Hit all the grease zerks with some grease first (lube the front-end) and then see if you still have a problem. I've seen more "clunks" and "pops" from dry front-end components. Doc
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Hey that's another thing I forgot about your modified driveshaft, it will be an automatic failure in LI.
--
Steve Williams


"Elliott" < snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net> wrote in message
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The DS is over 400 miles now, been up to 90 and is as smooth as can be. The old one was never smooth - even when it was serviced by the prior owner. Things really can be "ballenced" by "ballencing them" rather than spinning. My stepfather mounts his own tiers and uses a bubble ballancer (for his race car too). My wife will be towing her car with it (the Sonoma w/ the home-ballanced DS) and carrying a load at the same time when we go to LI, and am not at all worried about it. Plus, I will have the extra S-10 (spare vehicle) ready by then too. It's running fine on those home-machined heads (I do hope to have it 'on the road' by then, and runnin in closed-loop mode). Good thing my Grandfather wasn't affraid to try things either - he even welded an engine block for his first car (so he didn't have to walk to school - over the mountain, cross the stream, in 3 feet of snow, ...). Elliott

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so let me see if i understand this: modified transmission GOOD, modified driveshaft BAD, what am i missing here? so does gm know what they are doing or not?
Re: Clunking from under body Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sun, Apr 4, 2004, 11:02pm From: snipped-for-privacy@nope.com (Doc)
Hey that's another thing I forgot about your modified driveshaft, it will be an automatic failure in LI.
--
Steve Williams
"Elliott" < snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net> wrote in message
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (pete carb) wrote in message

Has nothing to do with GM. It has to do with the state laws of the state (NY) that you are moving into.
~TLGM
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I didn't miss the point, responded to it, and also covered the implied point too. So after-market DS replacements are out? I've seen lots of street rods and other modified vehicles in NY (I have lived there before). And it even would have passed with the factory option Floating Drive Shaft that was a POS. Yea I could see one being faild if it moved excessivly and had some wierd looking aspect to it (2 pieces welded crookedly or something). But you guys are just fustrated and want to find fault in it any way that you can - well you've lost - it will be fine. Elliott
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