Converting a 10-bolt to 8 lug hubs...

Ok, the 14 bolt is finally ready to go!!!
Now, I still have that 10 bolt in the front, and I want to convert it to an 8 lug hub so I won't have to carry 2 spares...
Is there a kit available to do this? If not, which parts are needed?
Thanks,
~JP
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Easiest way...Find a 3/4T front and pull everything off the knuckles.
-in order- Tire/wheel, brake caliper, lockout hub, lockout internals, spindle nut/lock-plate/spindle nut, rotor/bearings, 5 spindle retaining nuts, caliper plate.Now, here's the tricky part, you can reuse the 1/2T spindle IF the 3/4T hub uses the same size inner bearing. If it has the larger bearing, remove the spindle with a soft face dead-blow hammer(tapping firmly from different directions with a rocking motion to loosen).
Install the spindle(if required), install the larger caliper plate, torque the nuts to spec, thoroughly clean the spindle, repack the current 3/4T bearings or pack new bearings and install new races(NEVER use new bearings and used races(or visa-versa)), new seal, install 3/4T rotor(have it turned to avoid rework), snug spindle nut(GO BY THE BOOK ON HOW TO SET THE FIRST NUT! DONT DO IT BY 'FEEL'), lock-plate/spindle nut(torque to spec), lockout internals, lockout hub, brake caliper(some are the same between 1/2 and 3/4T so get the 3/4T one just to be safe) with new pads if needed, 16inch or bigger tire/wheel...
I am doing a highbred 1/2T-3/4T front so I can run 15x10 8lug white-spokes . Its a bit of engineering and tad of machine work. Not for the sane to attempt.
Where are you located at, if your close, maybe we could get together so I could help you out if you need it. I am in NW Iowa.
After all that, you might want to find a complete, good, 3/4T front and install it!

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...6 spindle retaining nuts...sorry
"Shades" <shades_1970(at)netins(dot)net> wrote in message

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Thanks for the info...
I wish I had a wrenching buddy around here. I've got one, but he's quite a ways off. I'm in Atlanta GA.
I'm just glad to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I've had so many different options appear then fizzle out. The 14 bolt out back is what I want, and so I'm finally gonna get it.
I have access to another 14 bolt and Dana 60 front end from a burned out 1 ton CUCV. But moving that truck and then stripping it would be quite an exercise. I don't have the facilities to do it myself, so I'm having to pay someone. I just don't want to tow that CUCV to the shop, and pay the dude to swap the front axles out. Although that's a good option, I'd be stuck trying to figure out what to do with a burned out CUCV with a 1/2 ton front end.
I suppose there's worse things to worry about :-)
Thanks again,
~JP
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Jon Pickens wrote:

    Offer it to a salvage yard if they will give you back the front diff plus pitman arm.
    Get it ready to swap, then if need be, pay some one to do it, or to help you do it. Charles
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"Jon Pickens" wrote:

This is water over the dam but you should have used a 14 bolt 9.5 inch semi floater in the rear that GM used in a lot of LD 3/4 ton trucks. It is a lot stronger than a 10 bolt (about the strength of a D60) and it usually comes with 6 lug hubs plus it can use a ARB and a few other diff options not possible in a 14 bolt 10.5 because its stradle mounted pinion limits carrier design. I am not saying the the 10.5 is a bad axle because it is not but in upgrades to 1/2 ton truck the 9.5 inch 14 bolt is often overlooked and it is a good study rear axle with heavier axle shafts, tubes and housing that a 10 bolt and yet more ground clearance than a 10.5 has. The 9.5 is pretty solid up to 38s to 40s, even with a locker.
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Yeah, I'm not disputing the value of the 9.5" 14-bolt... But this 14-bolt FF is brand new (never used), on a pallet, with 4.56 gears, and more importantly, I'm only trading 2 bottles of Gin for it.
:-)
Also, ARB does now make an air locker for the 14-bolt FF. Check out the "USA Air Locker applications" link at http://www.arbusa.com/air_locker_locking_differentials.htm . It's a PDF file. Also, Peterson's 4-Wheel & Off Road magazine has been building up a '75 K10 for the last 4 issues. They installed an ARB in the 14-bolt FF that they built up for the rear end.
I believe mine's coming with a factory Detroit, and I'll live with that for a while. I still have other upgrades to do, and at some point the Detroit will be swapped for the ARB. Now if someone would just make an electric locker for it....
~JP
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Well the 14-bolt FF is costing me 2 bottles of Gin. Not to mention it's brand new, on a pallet covered in plastic, and has 4.56 gears already installed.
Also, ARB now makes an air locker for the 14-bolt FF. Peterson's 4wheel & Off Road mag installed one in the 14-bolt FF they built up for their project truck over the last 4 issues.
~JP
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For any fullsize truck application getting tires gears and more power. That should be a no-contest affair between the SF and FF. IMO it's a no brainer. The 9.5" semifloater is an inferior differential by design. A 10.5" 14bolt with a Detroit with NO other upgrades is the stoutest rear diff short of a rockwell out back. Throw disks on it and shave the housing, then you're really cooking with fire. And, Not considering a 11.5" D80 rear, with no gain in axle shaft diameter it's a moot point.

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That reminds me, I've seen mention of an 11" or 11.5" (can't remember which) 14-bolt FF. Is this correct, that there's an even bigger version of the 14 bolt FF?
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I think that is what comes with the 3500 series with an 8.1 or D-max.

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