Drum brakes suck donkey d*ck/I hate cheap lug nuts

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I hate having to adjust the drum brakes on my 1990 F/S GMC Jimmy every 2,000 miles. I really hate it because I have *the* worst lug nuts every devised -
designed by retarded Mongolian monks to self-destruct if looked at side-wise. The first I can fix with a conversion. The second I haven't been able to fix with much $$ spent.
I am looking for a 60* bevel lug nut that is not thru-nut (acorn I guess) for a 3/8" fine thread(?). I want a solid piece lug nut, IE: nothing pressed in, on, through, etc. I would prefer a 7/8" lug (IIRC this is the size of the OEM lug "wrench" so if I don't have my road kit, I can change a flat with that P.O.S). I have found a 20 piece set that almost fits this requirement, except the chrome on it sucks. The first time you put a wrench to it, it cracks, and then it weeps rust all over my nice shiny stock rims. Also 4 of those pieces are "locking" lug nuts - a moronic idea and just plain annoying. So for like $25.00 I get 16 junk lugs, 4 junk locking lugs, and I'm still 4 lugs short. yay. Plain ole' 60* thru-nuts don't work, too shallow for my STOCK aluminum alloy rims (been dere, dun dat). The rims have a recess for each lug, and the center caps makes that recess all the deeper. If you know of a place that doesn't sell CRAP like every parts store I have ever been too with this problem (AutoZone, PepBoy, Sanel Autoparts, VIP Auto, and several local dealers you wouldn't have heard about) I would love to look at a link or whatever. About the only place I haven't gone to is NAPA. And if anyone has some 6lug (GM compatible) 16" black steelies in southern NH I'm making offers. Thank you for reading my rant.
-- "Ignorance is preferable to error; and he is less remote from the truth who believes nothing, then he who believes what is a wrong." - Thomas Jefferson Formerly: KJ the Lonely Grease Monkey
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2,000
if
pieces
like
short.
alloy
have
love
who
KJ,
For the drums, Take the self adjuster OUT. Completely remove the fork from the threaded body. Use a wire brush or a wire wheel and polish the threads. Put some never seize grease on the threads, then screw the fork back on. Voila, problem solved.
For the lugs, take one off, go to NAPA, buy new ones. It ain't that hard.
Doc

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I've bought MANY lug nuts, they all sucked. From places that sell good parts and bad parts - they have all sucked. I've spent like $80 on lug nuts for my K5/Jimmy and I still end up removing 1 or two with a bolt-out type device every time I work on it. I'll try napa though, that's about the only place I haven't gone. Now the brakes. Are you saying to leave some portion physically out during re-assembly? If not - I've already done as you have said. I took everything out, cleaned everything up, painted everything, greased every joint so I wouldn't have to force anything ever again - and it still just doesn't work. Drum brakes just suck, and they stop working in the mud.
-- "Ignorance is preferable to error; and he is less remote from the truth who believes nothing, then he who believes what is a wrong." - Thomas Jefferson Formerly: KJ the Lonely Grease Monkey

guess)
I
so
the
and
southern
from
threads.
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========<KJ starte the thread with a goodly little rant about his drum brakes and lug nuts> ======( the Doctor heard KJ's painfull screams, and came running with hyperdermic in hand...giving him some relief with....)
For the drums, Take the self adjuster OUT.
Completely remove the fork from the threaded body. Use a wire brush or a wire wheel and polish the threads. Put some never seize grease on the threads, then screw the fork back on.
Voila, problem solved.
For the lugs, take one off, go to NAPA, buy new ones. It ain't that hard.
Doc ============(KJ....having calmed a bit after the Docs injection....seemed a bit mellow when he wrote.....)
I've bought MANY lug nuts, they all sucked.
From places that sell good parts and bad parts - they have all sucked. I've spent like $80 on lug nuts for my K5/Jimmy and I still end up removing 1 or two with a bolt-out type device every time I work on it. I'll try napa though, that's about the only place I haven't gone. Now the brakes. Are you saying to leave some portion physically out during re-assembly? If not - I've already done as you have said. I took everything out, cleaned everything up, painted everything, greased every joint so I wouldn't have to force anything ever again - and it still just doesn't work. Drum brakes just suck, and they stop working in the mud.
KJ ==================KJ, good rant.
I think ole Doc wuz uh tell'n you to do what you said you've tried, cleaning them up good and grease'n the parts. The "Anti-Sieze" does work best. ....... onto yer brake prob......
Does the PARKING BRAKE work? if not....then get it operational and use it from time to time and your adjusting nightmares W I L L B E over.
no bout a doubt it!!
........ as to yer lug nut troubles.............
Have you tried the Dealer?
I mean.......you've already got over $80 invested in crappy ones. Why not take a ride down to the dealership and walk the lot to see if you there's any that you like the looks of. Then.....go talk to the parts dude and see if you can't take a look at one or two .....and see if the quality isn't better. They're definately going to be a bit more pricey, but not so much so if they LAST.
And take it from me bud.....I'm yank'n em off everyday.....some of these vehicals have had the dang tires yanked off plenty...and the aftermarket lugs for the most part are just what you called them ....junk.
~:~ marsh ~passes the jug to KJ...thinks the shot that Doc gave him is kick'n in...and the drink will maybe inhance the experience~
============
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Hehe... it broke the last time I tried to use it (e-brake). I was also talking about it to Doc a while ago, when I first did the brake job and couldn't get a good pedal. He told me just how to adjust them, and that the auto/self adjusters sucked so he just manually adjusted his every 5k or so - which wouldn't be so bad, but 2k is pretty annoying... I'll mozey on over to the $tealer see if I can't find something satisfactory...
-- "Ignorance is preferable to error; and he is less remote from the truth who believes nothing, then he who believes what is a wrong." - Thomas Jefferson Formerly: KJ the Lonely Grease Monkey

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========== ========== (concerning parking brake cables)
On Jul 11, 2004, 2:19pm (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@ebay.com (GMCGremlin) wrote in.....
Hehe... it broke the last time I tried to use it (e-brake).
<snip>
I'll mozey on over to the $tealer see if I can't find something satisfactory...
=========== ===========
I don't like yer new handle. I'm gonna thunk of a better one fer you.
I'm kinda lean'n toward "Cheap Nuts" right now, but i'm leave'n "Patch" on the table as an option.
lmao @ the little grease monkey
marsh ~walks out to his herb garden to pick some thought enhancer to help him with KJ's new nic~ =========== ===========
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Whatch dats chew say sunny!?
-- "Ignorance is preferable to error; and he is less remote from the truth who believes nothing, then he who believes what is a wrong." - Thomas Jefferson Formerly: KJ the Lonely Grease Monkey
I don't like yer new handle. I'm gonna thunk of a better one fer you.
I'm kinda lean'n toward "Cheap Nuts" right now, but i'm leave'n "Patch" on the table as an option.
lmao @ the little grease monkey
marsh ~walks out to his herb garden to pick some thought enhancer to help him with KJ's new nic~ ====================
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Which part is doing the wiggling?
LOFL!
Refinish King

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LOFL!
Marsh strikes again!
Refinish King
PS I better watch it, He'll give me a new handle too?
(GMC Gremlin) wrote in.....
Hehe... it broke the last time I tried to use it (e-brake).
<snip>
I'll mozey on over to the $tealer see if I can't find something satisfactory...
==================== I don't like yer new handle. I'm gonna thunk of a better one fer you.
I'm kinda lean'n toward "Cheap Nuts" right now, but i'm leave'n "Patch" on the table as an option.
lmao @ the little grease monkey
marsh ~walks out to his herb garden to pick some thought enhancer to help him with KJ's new nic~ ====================
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If you're doing a lot of mudding, maybe you should buy some of the adjuster plugs that seal up your drum so you don't get moisture and mud in them. That might help things out. I never adjust my drums, and they work great.

etc.
for
the
VIP
is
truth
hard.
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<snip rant>
Stop and use your head:
1. Did you take apart the self adjuster and clean + grease the threads?
2. Ever think that maybe the LUGS aren't the problem but rather the studs?
I've never had either of the problems you're having, so it ain't the drums or everybodies lugs, it's your truck that's the problem.
Doc
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I took everything I could apart. I was left with a backing plate and the end of my stub shaft sticking out. Everything else got buffed clean and painted with rustolium. Then it was put back together with AutoZoned brake grease. Now, would you like to see a picture of the after market lug nuts? The ones where the cap has popped off, and now the piece under the chrome is neither metric nor standard. Or perhaps the ones where the top of the lug crushed in, making the nut round. Or perhaps a picture of the rim that has carbon imbedded in the clear coat, from where I had to burn a lug nut out in -20* weather... But I guess it's my bolts....
-- "Ignorance is preferable to error; and he is less remote from the truth who believes nothing, then he who believes what is a wrong." - Thomas Jefferson Formerly: KJ the Lonely Grease Monkey

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studs?
drums
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I thought saying "I took _everything_ apart" three times would mean I took the adjuster apart as well. I broke down every portion I could when I took it apart. Also I changed all the springs.
Why would 48 studs on 2 different trucks correctly torqued to 115lbs all exhibit the same problems? I have some lugs that don't exhibit these characteristics - because they are solid metal, drilled out and taped with no plugs or caps pressed in/on to achieve the affect. But they weep rust like a bastard once the chrome cracks (after first tightening) and it comes in a set of 20 with 4 locking lugs, so 16 usable lugs.
http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_013.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_014.jpg
In #13 you can see two lug nuts that look like they don't have caps. That's because they don't, the chrome caps popped off, leaving me with that. It's neither metric nor standard, maybe it's that weird English set - Alison or something? My opinion is that they are just junk - cuzin I dun't abuse em w/ over torque or removing them with oversized sockets (where applicable).
-- "Ignorance is preferable to error; and he is less remote from the truth who believes nothing, then he who believes what is a wrong." - Thomas Jefferson Formerly: KJ the Lonely Grease Monkey

studs
bust.
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GMC Gremlin wrote:

The GM factory nuts are like this too, they were designed to be the correct size "with" the chrome cap on. Even the GM one's fall off eventually, but they seem to be quite hardy as I've always hit them with an impact wrench, and nothing happens until they have been around for 5 or more years.

Why don't you just try a set of factory nuts?
Ian
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You could always look in the yellow pages for a machine shop near you and get them to make you a set out of stainless steel that you could then polish. Chrome and wrenches do not interact well......like cats and dogs,,,,,,,,RUFF>>>>>
GMC Gremlin wrote:

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I agree with the toughness and non corrosiveness of a stainless steel lug nut. But stainless fasteners are prone to galling if used with high speed tools like impact wrenches. They would have to be turned by hand to insure they don't gall.
Brian

but
them
take
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============= ============= (the Doctor snuck up and stabbed the little monkey in the arse with a hyperdermic full of truth serum....and asked....)
KJ, Answer the goddamn question!
DID YOU OR DID YOU NOT take APART the self-adjuster, NOT remove it from the drum, we all know you did that, but did you take the two pieces of it apart, clean the threads and grease them before putting the two parts back together.
Next, I've used AZ lugs for ages without any problems. Perhaps your studs are the problem. If the threads are chewed up or widened, it will take excessive torque to install/remove the lugs which would cause them to bust.
Doc ============== ============== snipped-for-privacy@ebay.com (GMCGremlin) (scratched at the prick mark on his arse... rubbed his little greasy monkey head and mumbled....)
I thought saying "I took _everything_ apart" three times would mean I took the adjuster apart as well.
I broke down every portion I could when I took it apart. Also I changed all the springs.
Why would 48 studs on 2 different trucks correctly torqued to 115lbs all exhibit the same problems?
I have some lugs that don't exhibit these characteristics - because they are solid metal, drilled out and taped with no plugs or caps pressed in/on to achieve the affect.
But they weep rust like a bastard once the chrome cracks (after first tightening) and it comes in a set of 20 with 4 locking lugs, so 16 usable lugs.
http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_013.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_014.jpg In #13 you can see two lug nuts that look like they don't have caps. That's because they don't, the chrome caps popped off, leaving me with that.
It's neither metric nor standard, maybe it's that weird English set - Alison or something? ================== ==================
Wiggles,, if the NORMAL socket size is 3/4..... (also 19mm) use an 18mm socket to get them off after the chrome cover takes a sheet.
if the NORMAL socket size is 13/16..... (also 21mm) use a 20mm socket to get them off after the chrome cover takes a sheet on you.
This usually works jest fine, however........ if'n it don't.....then you need to use the close'st socket that WON'T go over the lugs..... AND POUND THAT SUCKER ON THERE!!! Usually a 12 point that's one size smaller than the original size works jest fine.
The 12 point socket deal works great for the locking lugs too.
...... Now.....bout them brakes....
1st.... I was wondering.....during all this professional brake work that you've been doing on the back of this thing....did you ever have the drums turned? If they are out of round bad enough, that can very likely be the reason you have to adjust them so oftern.
2nd..... fix the parking brakes...so you don't have to worry about it anymore.
3rd.... most brake shops will adjust the rear brakes for you as part of their "free" brake inspection. So what if you don't need any work done.... they don't need to know that.
marsh ~:~ ========= =========
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(GMC Gremlin) (scratched at the prick mark on his arse... rubbed his little greasy monkey head and mumbled....)
I thought saying "I took _everything_ apart" three times would mean I took the adjuster apart as well.
I broke down every portion I could when I took it apart. Also I changed all the springs.
Why would 48 studs on 2 different trucks correctly torqued to 115lbs all exhibit the same problems?
I have some lugs that don't exhibit these characteristics - because they are solid metal, drilled out and taped with no plugs or caps pressed in/on to achieve the affect.
But they weep rust like a bastard once the chrome cracks (after first tightening) and it comes in a set of 20 with 4 locking lugs, so 16 usable lugs.
http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_013.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/hawkeye649box/Jimmy_014.jpg In #13 you can see two lug nuts that look like they don't have caps. That's because they don't, the chrome caps popped off, leaving me with that.
It's neither metric nor standard, maybe it's that weird English set - Alison or something? ================================== Wiggles,, if the NORMAL socket size is 3/4..... (also 19mm) use an 18mm socket to get them off after the chrome cover takes a sheet.
if the NORMAL socket size is 13/16..... (also 21mm) use a 20mm socket to get them off after the chrome cover takes a sheet on you.
This usually works jest fine, however........ if'n it don't.....then you need to use the close'st socket that WON'T go over the lugs..... AND POUND THAT SUCKER ON THERE!!! Usually a 12 point that's one size smaller than the original size works jest fine.
The 12 point socket deal works great for the locking lugs too.
...... Now.....bout them brakes....
1st.... I was wondering.....during all this professional brake work that you've been doing on the back of this thing....did you ever have the drums turned? If they are out of round bad enough, that can very likely be the reason you have to adjust them so oftern.
==Didn't know it could cause loss of pedal, just pulsing. However I didn't have them turned. I guess I'll look into it - thanks! == 2nd..... fix the parking brakes...so you don't have to worry about it anymore.
==I've been meaning too - just busy. == 3rd.... most brake shops will adjust the rear brakes for you as part of their "free" brake inspection. So what if you don't need any work done.... they don't need to know that.
marsh ~:~ ================
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I bought a set of:
Heli-Coil Save-A-Stud, when I found out that you weren't supposed to use anti-seize on lugs?
Refinish King
PS I still use it on the hub area when I put the rotor, drum and wheel back on, I hate hammering off wheels, drums and rotors!

threads?
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