I put a new distributor in tonight and the truck started fine, idled and
showed decent throttle response. My manual tells me i've ionstalled the
distributor a tooth off and to use "procedure 2" Procedure two reads like
a pain in the ass. Is there any problem with me pulling the distibutor up
moveing it a tooth and putting it back in? If I don't get it right the
first time I plan on going three teeth back the other way. I'd rather not
pull off the valve cover and turn it by hand if I can help it. All advice
with be appreciated.
As for finding TDC, pull #1 sparkplug, stick your finger in the sparkplug
hole and have someone "bump" the starter untill compression pushes your
finger out. Then watching the timing marks on the balancer, continue to turn
the last little bt to TDC. Drop in the distrubutor with the rotor pointing
to the proper place. This will probably get it close enough to run with a
No problem bro,
Rotate the crank to TDC and plop the distributor in so it points at #1 wire
If it backfires thru the carb it's 180 degrees out,
pull it up and rotate 180 degrees so it's pointing the
other direction.Fire it up and adjust the timing to spec.
Greg O's technique will work just as well.........
On Sat, 03 Jul 2004 12:30:07 -0400, Mad Dog wrote:
I cleared the code and moved the distributor tightened it back and
fired it up and pulled the codes. Two times of that was all it took. As
fsr as adjusting the timing to spec i don't believe the computor will let
me. THere is no actual timing pointer on my 96 k 2500. Some of the gm
mechanics probably have a trick for that but, maybe they just get it
cloose and let the brain finish time it.
Ok, sometimes they will put a chisel mark on the base of the distributor
that will line up with a chisel mark on the manifold.
You have to set the initial timing yourself, the computer will not set it
On Sat, 03 Jul 2004 18:17:45 -0400, Mad Dog wrote:
chisel mark? hell, the damn distributor is made of plastic. I had over
300,000 on my other chevy and I've only got 151,000 on this one. We looked
a five reman at the NAPA warehouse and every one had the ears made of
epoxy. Is there a solvent or some other way to remove the blue thread lock
when i put my next cap on in 50,000 miles? The instructions say to use a
thread chaser to avoid breaking the housing. Have you ever seen a sheet
metal screw thread chaser? THis whole thing started when i broke an ear
off of the housing with a new cap. I drove it for two weeks with a small
c-clamp snugged down and the hanlde tie wired
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