Just bought a used 96 Yukon 4x4 w/350. I took it to the local dealership
for an oil change and 27 point inspection.
I knew it had a small oil leak and asked if they could find the source while
they were under it.
The service manager came to me with an estimate of over $1300 to fix
everything on the truck.
Said my oil leak was mainly from the P/S Pump, but the tranny tailshaft seal
and oil filter housing were leaking too.
He said they checked all the fluids in the diffs, tranny, and transfer case
and they all looked dirty and needed replacement.
Over $600 on the estimate were to "BG" all the fluids. I saw a sample on
the front counter of how the BG service was supposed to clean and flush the
system and completely remove the old contaminants.
Is this BG service worth the money?? How hard is it to change out the fluid
in the Diffs and the transfer case and are there any synthetic fluids
One other question. The truck has a remote oil filter mount that has the
filter under the drivers side behind the running board.
I thought this might have been a factory option to move the filter away from
the front axle, but the dealer gave me the impression this isn't stock.
Does anyone else have this as stock?? There is a small leak where it
attaches to the engine block and I am considering just removing it and using
the stock filter if it will fit.
Thanks in advance for any advice,
Is vasoline included in the repair order cause' they're trying to bend you
over and give you a stiff one. That is the most ludicrous price for a fluid
exchange and a few leak repairs I've ever seen.
The ps pump shaft seal, the trans tailshaft seal, and oil filter adapter
gaskets and seal (if they are talking about the factory one) are all
very normal types of leaks for these trucks.
I wouldn't bother with "BG" treatments. Frankly, if you have even
the slightest bit of mechanical know how (like you can find the right
sockets and wrenches and you can turn them) you can drain and fill
all the fluids yourself. Both the front diff and the t/case have drain
and fill plugs, very easy to do. The rear diff in that year doesn't have
a drain plug, but it's not rocket science to remove the rear cover,
install a new gasket and install new fluid. If you want to install
synthetic fluid, you can...but...you must not use RTV on the
diff cover (it probably has a gasket anyway, some of the larger
diffs still used RTV) as the synthetic fluid will eat the RTV. Plus,
if you go with synthetic in the front diff, you must change up
the vent to an updated vent that can handle synthetic. Again,
the old black vents would react to the synthetic, and either
pop out, or start leaking. You can get the updated vent at
your dealership, provided the parts department has half a
This is not factory....I would just toss it and try to
go back to the factory set up. I can see no reason
for a remote filter setup on this vehicle, unless the
original owner was just too lazy to get under the
truck and get at the oil filter (which makes no sense,
as you have to get under approx the same area to
reach the drain plug on the oil pan.
T/case fluid, I would just stick with whatever it came
with. Probably ATF in that year...just double check
in the owners manual.
On Sun, 1 Feb 2004 10:31:37 -0600, "MICHAEL ATKISSON"
I'm gonna take the side of the other 2 posters, they both know their
stuff (Ian better, he works at a dealer!). They're charging A LOT for
fixing those leaks, I had the 2 diffs, the t-case and the tranny
serviced at a local dealer. Total cost, with a tire balance, was just
I will also agree with the other posters.
Changing the fluids yourself should be sufficient enough. I wouldn't do any
kind of special flush, unless there was a real good reason to.
As far as synthetic fluids go, that has been a debate as old as time itself.
I run synthetic diff. fluids, simply because I have to park it (1999 Yukon
4wd) outside in -45 temp. When it is that cold, I find that the conventional
diff. gets too thick, and no length of idling will warm it up. The x-fer
case I run the GM fluid (the autotrac takes a special type, not sure what
the diff. is.)
As far as the price go, that's a little excessive.
But, mind you, they (GM) charged me 1/2 hour to change the serpentine
Had a wheel alignment done, and tranny fluid done and some other stuff.
The shop called me and said the belt was done, I said ok, change it.
Even if there was a min. charge, I would have thought it wouldn't have
applied, since I had a whole shopping list of stuff to do.
The book should read 1/6 of an hour to change. 10 min. tops.
No mechanic should take 1/2 hour to change one of those things.
Often it doesn't, just depends on the shop and what work
was being done. Let's say that you also needed the front
pump seal done on the ps pump....in that case, I would not
charge the .5 to replace the serp belt. Mainly, because you
already have it off.
> The book should read 1/6 of an hour to change. 10 min. tops.
No, the book is quite fine where it is.
How long it takes is of little consequence. If the belt is sitting on
the fan shroud, truck in my stall, it might take me all of 1 minute
to install late model chev small block serp belt. But, that's only
what it takes to actually install the belt. And I'm good.
As I'm sure you know, flat rate cuts both ways. My theory is
that the person that says "it's a piece of cake, should only take
10 minutes max" should be putting the belt on themselves. If
you have any excuse whatsoever why you can't do it yourself,
ie: too busy, no tools, it's too cold....etc.....then just pay the
bill and be done with it.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.