Front wheel bearings-2000 Blazer??

How diffiicult are these to replace?
Just paid over $500.00 at the dealer to have the right one done and now I can hear the left side begininng to whine.
I just had the ball joints replaced. Would the bad ball joints cause the wheel bearings to go out?
Thanks
Ed
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On Mon, 30 Jul 2007 07:55:17 -0700, " snipped-for-privacy@msn.com"

Not really though bad aligment can add a bit a strain to bearings sometimes. versized tires and lifts can be very hard on bearings and ball joints. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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snipped-for-privacy@msn.com wrote:

The hub assembly will cost you about 200/250 bucks. DON'T buy the cheapest one.
Tool wise you will need a 13 and an 18mm combination wrench, 12,13 and 18MM sockets. LARGE socket that fits the axle nut(51 or 52 MM forget which)some sandpaper or a way to clean off rust/crud Torque wrench. Lug wrench. Pry bar. Regular screwdriver. Dead blow hammer. Jack and stands.
Jack it up, pull the wheel off and use a pin to lock the rotor in place so you can remove the axle nut. Then TAP the end of the axle to loosen it up. Now remove the caliper and bracket using the two 18mm bolts that hold the bracket to the spindle. Hang the caliper and bracket with heavy wire so it doesn't strain the hose. Now pull the rotor off. Disconnect the wiring that goes to the wheel sensor (it is on top of the frame behind the rubber shield). And remove the bolts that secure the wire to the frame and the A Arm, the one at the end can just be pried open gently and the wire removed, the others wrap around the wire. Now you can remove the three bolts that hold the hub to the spindle. They will be TIGHT and they have loctite on them. Once they are out give the hub a few hard whacks with the mallet to break the rust free and remove it, make sure the O ring comes out. You will want to tap the axle out and catch the washer that was under the nut. Now clean up the spindle where the hub bolts on. Clean the rust off the brake backing plate where it is sandwiched between the hub and spindle, clean the rust off the rotor hat (part that goes over the studs)on both sides. Clean the ENDS of the hub retainer bolts where they are rusted, Don't remove the blue thread locker though. Now reverse the process to install the new one. Put a LIGHT coat of a non petroleum lube on the new Oring and get the bolts all started in the hub before you tighten any of them. The bolts securing the hub to the spindle get tightened to 77 ft pounds, the axle nut gets 107 ft pounds. Brake caliper mounting bracket bolts are 133 ft pounds.
Should take the average DIYer about 2 hours.
--
Steve W.

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Steve:
Thank you very much. You answered all of my questions perfectly. This really hepls. I needed those toruqe values and I wasn't sure if it was metric. Now I can be prepared.
Thanks again for taking the time.
Ed in Spokane
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On Tue, 31 Jul 2007 14:58:08 -0700, " snipped-for-privacy@msn.com"

If you torque brake caliper bracket bolts to 133Ft lbs you will likely break them. The officail GM dealar manual call for 70Nm or 52 ft lbs and 102 ft lbs on axle nut (it would not hurt to do a bit more but you do not really want to be less than 102 on this nut. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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SnoMan wrote:

Want to bet. Those numbers ARE factory numbers. The book is sitting next to me on the shelf, Oh and I just did one yesterday as well. The 52lb ft is for the REAR brake caliper mount NOT the front.
GM Manual section 5-62 Disc Brakes
Caliper bracket to knuckle mounting bolts (Front)- 133lb ft
GM Manual section 3-83 Front Suspension
Steering knuckle to wheel hub - 77lb ft Speed sensor to wheel hub - 13lb ft (not usually needed because most new hubs come with sensors installed) Drive axle nut - 103lb ft.
--
Steve W.

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wrote:

My "offical" computer based GM dealer manual version Jume 2005 says otherwise. It clearly speel of torque for front disk brake brackets. It would take a bolt a lot bigger than those to relaibly take 133 ft lbs without premature failure. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com
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snipped-for-privacy@snoman.com says...

Cant make out half of what Snojob said but my gosh I have the "Service & Parts Operations" disc too and heres what they say:
"Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Mounting Bolt (Dual Piston Front Caliper) 180 Nm 133 lb ft"
That is a direct copy and paste! Wow once again Snoball has failed to figure out torque specs. Yeah big surprise.
(Now lets see which one of his lame insults he's going to use that we've already heard a thousand times before.)
----------------------------------- Snojob Follies: SBJ: Dumb brake question http://tinyurl.com/2ya3wo
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You should get a new wheel sensor with most hubs assy when applicable. Be sure to install the new sensor with the new hub assy. I have found in the past that not all wheel sensors are made exactly the same length depending on manufacturer. Occasionally the original wheel sensor will be damaged when used in a new non-OEM wheel hub - use the one included with the hub.
James
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James1549 wrote:

I've only seen a GM dealer hub that came without the sensor for that very reason. Most of the aftermarket ones come with a fitted sensor.
Oh IF you did need to reuse the old sensor for some reason and it is a bit long you can use a file and take a small amount off the sensor tip. Just go slow and stop when it is free.
--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
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Got it done yesterday. It all went smoothly. Used a gear puller to slip the hub off the axel.
Well worth the time and effort.
Thanks agin for the good information.
Ed
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snipped-for-privacy@msn.com wrote:

Find a use for your old hub yet? I've turned a few into bar stools. Also have made a few wind powered items using them as well.
--
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York
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wrote:

Don't the studs poke ya in the butt?
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