G20 Van Wiper Motor / Module

Can anyone point me to detailed instructions for removing / replacing the wiper motor and / module on my 1995 Chevy G20 van?
Wipers have gone intermittent - somtimes work - sometimes don't -
usually works on HI, but random / no work on LO and variable.
Looks like I have to remove part of the dash and grille on the front - just looking for some pointers before I tear into it....
Thanks in advance.
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Don't know about the G20, but my 95 Astro had a recall for the wiper motor. Got the recall notice last year. Wayne

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Greetings,
I don't know for sure if the G20 vans share the same wiper module as the C/K series trucks, the S-10's, Sonomas, Blazers, Bravadas, etc. of this generation, but here are my instructions that I've posted many times. I hope they help, but I can't guarantee that they are correct for your van.
Mid-90's Chevy and GMC Wiper Module Circuit Board Replacement and/or Repair Procedures
The fault in this circuit board is quite common and is attributed to bad solder joints from either design error or manufacturing flaw. Symptoms which indicate a bad circuit board include (but are not limited to): wipers will not work at all or work intermittently; wipers stop working for no apparent reason, maybe even in mid-stroke; wiper function is erratic, with no delay feature, delay is the same regardless of setting, or no low- or high-speed setting; wipers may start to work if you tap on the wiper module or move the electrical connector.
You have a choice of either Repairing your existing circuit board yourself, or Replacing it.
Replacement - You have at least three options available to you, depending on your relationship with your dealer and how much of a stink you want to put up.
1.. Pay for the replacement part plus the labor to have the dealer install it (~$50 for the part plus ? for labor. Most expensive, least work). 2.. Pay for the replacement part and install it yourself (~$50 for the part, your labor is free. Takes about 15 minutes.). 3.. Have the part replaced under recall if applicable (Free, minus the time your truck will be in the shop. Least expensive, most work.). 4.. (Repair it yourself - Instructions below after Replacement)
Option #1 is very straightforward, just go down to your local dealer and have him do the work and pay the bill when he is finished. You don't even have to read any further.
Option #2 is also very straightforward. Have the parts department research the correct part number for your model year circuit board, purchase the part from them and install it. The wiper module is a small 2"x 4" black box attatched somewhere near the top of the firewall on the driver's side. It has the wiper motor mounted to it, and an electrical connector plugged into the end. Remove the electrical connector first, and using a Torx (6-pointed star) driver, remove the cover from the module. The circuit board sits directly underneath the cover and will be coated with grease. Gently pry the circuit board out of the module, do a little spring cleaning inside the case and add a dab of grease to the drive gears if needed. Install the new circuit board in the same manner as the old one was. Clean the inside of the cover and reinstall with the same Torx head screws. If you purchased a "kit" that included a new cover along with the new circuit board, make sure to use the new cover and screws provided as the new circuit board is thicker and the new cover has been altered to fit it.
Option #3 gets a little involved. First you must find a recall notice for your truck. Start by checking on the internet at www.nhtsa.gov and drill down thru the links for recalls to determine if your truck is actually listed (there are other sites to check as well). Just because your truck may not be listed doesn't mean it's not under recall. It could easily depend on how your truck is described. For example, a 1995 Chevrolet C1500 Pick-up could easily be listed as a C1500, 1500, 1500-3500, C-Series, C/K Series, Chevrolet Truck, GM Truck, C10 (the old designation), etc. It would pay to look under as many designations as you can think of before giving up.
If you find your truck as listed, so much the better. Print out a copy of the recall and wave it at your dealer's service manager and they should fix it No Questions Asked. If they still refuse, contact Chevrolet/GMC Customer Assistance and/or the NHTSA's hotline (both are toll-free and listed on their respective web sites).
If you do not find your truck specifically listed, all hope is not yet lost. Search for the same truck under a different model year, or a substantially similar vehicle which does have a recall (For example, the Chevy Blazer shares the same wiper components as the Chevy S-10 and Astro, the GMC Jimmy, Safari and Sonoma, the Olds Bravada, etc.). Print out a copy of the recall for the other vehicle and go to your dealer's parts department. Have them search for the part number of the circuit board for the recalled vehicle, then for the part number for your truck. Odds are in your favor that they will both be exactly the same. Hence, your wiper module is one of the faulty ones being recalled and should be covered but your truck may have been left off the recall list. Take this info to the service manager and depending on how much he wants to keep you as a customer, he will find a way to have the board replaced under the recall. If not, then you still have options #1 and #2 above, or you could fix your existing board yourself.
Repair - You can easily repair your existing board if you know how to turn a screwdriver and know which end of a soldering gun to hold. If you haven't mastered either of these skills, then have someone else do the job for you.
Step 1 - Locate the wiper module and remove the circuit board as described in Option #2 above. Be VERY careful removing the circuit board. Do not crack, bend or break it or you're outta luck and will have to buy a new one. The circuit board is approx. 2"x 4" and has two distinct sides. The top is the side where all the components live, especially the large black socket for the electrical connector (more on that later). The bottom is where all the lead wires from the electrical components poke thru the board and are soldered to the printed circuit. Carefully wipe the excess grease off the board.
Step 2 - The fault in the board is caused by bad solder joints holding the large socket onto the printed circuit. If the board itself is cracked or broken, then you will have to get a new one. Carefully inspect the tiny mounds of solder underneath the large socket on the bottom of the board. Each drop of solder connects a lead wire from the socket to the printed circuit. A bad solder joint may look like it has a tiny circle in the drop of solder around the wire end, a chip or crack in the little mound of solder, or it may be too small to see. At this point you will need a soldering gun and solder, and a steady hand. (Note - Plain or rosin-core solder has been recommended to me. Do not use acid-core solder as it will damage your work.)
Step 3 - Set your circuit board bottom side up so you can see the solder joints for the socket onto the printed circuit. Heat up your soldering gun and apply just a tiny drop of solder to the tip. Place the hot tip with the melted solder directly onto the existing solder joint in question just long enough until the gun melts the existing solder and the new solder mixes in with it. Remove the gun from the work and allow to cool. Remelting the original solder and adding some extra should repair the joint and make continuity again and reinforce it. Repeat for all the solder joints in question, and/or all the solder joints for the socket. Don't overheat your work, or solder may run down and create a short to another circuit, or you may unknowingly fry a component on the other side of the board.
Step 4 - Allow everything to cool, then reinstall the board as listed in Option #2 above.
Good luck - Jonathan

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On Mon, 12 Jun 2006 03:40:10 GMT, "Jonathan"

Many thanks for the reply Johathan. I've got all the symptoms you describe...... Not sure about the G20 vs the other models - my motor/modue is WAY up under the dash - gotta remove heater duct just to get to it.... and I'm not sure if I can remove the module without (much pain) removing the entire motor assy. I'd love to pop just the module, but......
Any experience with the aftermarket replacement module that claims to have a "thicker" PCB - less prone to warping and cracking the PCB vs. the dealer replacement?. I'm familiar with PCB repair - any idea about success %?
If all else fails, is there a way to jury rig it so I can get manual control - even just hi speed? I live in a rural area, and the van has to stay on the road (electrician), and there is no source of parts etc. when I tear into it on the weekend.
Thanks again.
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The aftermarket thicker PC board IS the replacement that comes in the kit from the dealer and it still needs to be installed in the wiper module, replacing the old one. In truth, the only real significant difference is that the socket is anchored onto the board more securely than the original so it won't break the solder joints when stressed, hence the need for the thicker board. Either way (repair or replacement, regardless of where you buy the new board) you still have to get to the wiper module as the board and motor are integrated into the same unit (speaking for the trucks I described - I still don't know about the G20 vans). With this unit, there is no way to re-route a switch or any wiring around the faulty board for the very same reason, that being it's integrated.
Cheers - Jonathan
wrote:

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Greetings Jonathan
Thanks for the note.
I've got some info you could add to your post regarding replacement of the pulse module in a 1995 G20 van (probably applies to the entire G series).
It is possible to replace the module without removing the wiper motor. First you need to remove the "shell" under the steering column - 3 m12 screws and 4 Phillips. Then you can look in and see the motor, and the cover plate which retains the module. The module cover faces the dash, pointing down at about a 30 degree angle. The module cover screws are Torx t20, and you will need a long extension. I used a 3" plus a 6" plus the screwdriver 1/4" drive handle to reach them - 2 6" would have been evev better. at the end of the extension I had a 1/4" drive by 1/4" hex socket, and I taped my Torx bit into the socket.
My installation had a grey plug and socket connector in the wire before the connector that goes into the module, so I disconnected the motor there. With a bit of finagling, you can hit each of the three screws straight on..... I did the two top screws first (most difficult - top right may need a flex drive to help, but alignment is difficult - not much finger room), and then the "center" screw. Assembled in the reverse order, and all seems to be well. The new Torx screws supplied with the new module "locked on" to my Torx bit nicely - just pointed in, engaged and snugged down.
I didn't notice any cracks in any of the traces, or around the solder pins of the primary connector on the old module. I did notice some apparent "heat damage" by Q1 and Q2, but I did have all the symptoms you described in your post.
Total time about 3 hours, including a 1 hour round trip to Napa, where I got the module ($30) - and the temp was over 90 deg. here in southern Maine!. I also removed the outside cowling grille to lube the squeaking, low tech connecting arm joints.
Grover
On Tue, 13 Jun 2006 05:18:36 GMT, "Jonathan"

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