Gas Milage, 5.3 Liter

Still you are not standing still long idling because it would not be that high if you were. Simple physics but glad your happy. I use 4 banngers for my comuting and I consider 25 to 30 good town and 35 to

40 on the road the norm to. At today fuel prices if you drive alot you can easily save several thousand dollars a year in fuel cost and save enough more in several years to pay for the 4 banger and then some and make the big iron last a lot longer too.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

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SnoMan
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I haven't had my new wheels for an entire week yet, so I haven't been able to determined MPG yet. I'm hoping to get close to 30/hwy. Not superb for a 4-cyl, but it's not an econo-box...it's a convertible Saab

9-3 turbo, so we shall see.

Monday morning I'll head out to work on a full tank with the tripmeter reset. Friday evening when I pull into the gas station near the house I'll do the numbers.

The K5 was getting around 11.7mpg on the interstate. In town was much worse. I was usually putting in $20 of premium daily to make the 60 mile round trip to work and back. I figured that much gas was equal to a car payment, and when the K5's most recent rear axle gave up the ghost it just made sense. I gotta say though, having things like a radio and A/C again is *awfully* nice... :-)

BTW Snoman, I noticed your website is done in PHP. Did you do it yourself? I'm really needing to get into PHP for a project at work and would appreciate any recommendations on good tutorials / books for learning the stuff. I'm assuming it's driving a MySQL database on the backend.

Let me know...

~jp

SnoMan wrote:

Reply to
Jon R. Pickens

Yes it is in PHP driven by MySQL I plan to do more with it at a later date. Right now I am using PHPBB 2.0.21 software and may take to 3.0 when it passes beta and gives me a lot more options but my websever will need to upgrade PHP version to support it so we will have to wait and see. As far as books on it. There a a few good books on it by SAMS and a few other writers. You might check out your local library if you have a good one as I got a lot of them there. I am not a wizard with PHP and MySQL but I try to manage. I am strong in other aspects of it though.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

My 2003 Z71 4x4 5.3L extended cab, short bed is getting around 14mpg - about half of my daily driving is city and half is highway; I have around 55k mi on it right now.

I'm going to start doing my own oil changes using Mobil1 synthetic and a K&N air filter - I have been told that will improve my mileage - gas I use is typically Regular 87 Octane - when I use better, I do notice a little more distance on the trip meter when I fill up. Here in NJ, gas prices just dipped to $2.79 at some places, but a fill-up is still way too pricey - I guess I shouldn't complain too much because I could be living in a area where the price is over $3/gal.

Take care, Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Klein

SYN may gain you a bit but a air filter is a waste of money MPG wise. Also it will do better on 89 octane and better still on 93 because that engine was only designed to tolerate 87, not do its best on it. (that is the ONLY reason there is a knock senser on it) WHen you use low octane fuel, the ECM retards the spark to control knock and when it does it reduces thermodynamic efficency and MPG with it. It will be most noticable in hot weather when octane requirements of a engine increase as it is not constant as many would like to believe.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

Thanks SnoMan - all things I wasn't aware of. Perhaps I'll start using the 89-grade consistently and see how I make out. Sill planning on switching to SYN and if the K&N Air Filter is negligible from a MPG perspective, maybe just the fact that it is less than the price of two disposable air filters will make it a justifiable expenditure.

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Klein

Bear in mind that it is well documented in some independant ISO tests on the web that K&N do filter less. Below is a like to one such test. Granted it is on a Dmax but given that it has a very high intake air flow it makes a good subject for this test. A few more thing, keep your fluids fresh in drive axles and Tcase with regular changed (every

20 to 30K) and keep tires close to or at their max rated pressure to keep rolling resistance as low as possible. Yes we are spliting hairs but when you are trying to squeak out that last little bit of MPG, you need to do it.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

Forgot the link

formatting link
TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

The link at the posted site was broken. In any event, if not the K&N air filter, what do you recommend? An ordinary Fram dry filter or something else perhaps?

Reply to
Kevin Klein

Unless you drive gravel roads a lot, you won't have to worry about that filter for a long time. My '99 still has it's original filter at 51k. I check it at oil changes and though it's slightly discolored, plenty of light can still be seen through it.

Dave

Reply to
Hairy

I have a copy of it but I will not post it directly without authors permission. It that test, the AC filter came out the best overall.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

I change mine every 20 to 25K.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

BS again....check your ratio between miles driven and engine hours. Mine is

24.6, meaning an average of 24.6 miles for every engine hour. Thats pretty low...= lots of ideling.

Reply to
MikeG

Something is not right here because given a theoritical efficency of

30% that mean you would burn a average of 1.5 gallons a hour to develope a average HP of about 22 HP to flywheel (50 x 1.5 x .30%) and 22 HP average HP is not going to power that truck thru traffic (actually less if you consider fuel loss at idle) You are being straight about something here.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

I log every fill up in a spreadsheet. I get a pretty good mixture of city/highway. Truck is a 2004, extended cab, auto, 4x4.

Total Miles 25,873 Total Gallons 1480.19 Total Hours 696 Avg. MPG 17.480 Total Cost $3,493.23 Gallons / Hour 2.13 Avg. MPH 37.158 Cost / Mile $0.14

Reply to
Eugene Nine

Jon,

What is the project you're doing? If you are mostly doing CRUD stuff to a database connection especially MySQL, Ruby on Rails is a slick way to go, very quick to get a website up and running, and kinda cutting edge stuff to learn. Just a thought... if you want recommendations on books for that let me know....

Ed

J> I haven't had my new wheels for an entire week yet, so I haven't been

Reply to
89GMC

Thanks Ed...

I manage the inventory for my department at work. I work for a major ISP and my small department does the Q&A on new products (software or hardware). For years inventory has been out of control with pieces being misplaced and stolen since the department began. I have an online MySQL database running on a Fedora Core 5 server and I admin it with phpMyAdmin. That app is good at adding fields or records, and overall management, but it's in no way a good interface for the average employee.

I just need a quick way to add, delete, and change my inventory from a web interface. I need a read-only interface for 9 employees, and read/write access for me and my boss. Oh, and security is high priority. I can't have anyone but me or the boss man being able to change the inventory.

~jp

89GMC wrote:
Reply to
Jon R. Pickens

Reply to
MikeG

Probably so, just thought I'd throw mine out there to compare. I make several 500 mile trips each year to WV and some on the highway driving to work.

Reply to
Eugene Nine

Jon,

Sounds like a good match for RoR, check out rubyonrails.org or pragmaticprogrammers.com for some good info(i have both ruby books from the 2nd site) RoR gives you crud plus a web interface for it for free, all you do is enter a couple commands and every mysql table/index gets mapped to classes in ruby complete with the interface. The security is doable too, explained in the pragmatic books.....

J> Thanks Ed...

Reply to
89GMC

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