wow.. please do keep the info flowing, and good luck!
What transmission are you planning to use?
If you need any tech info, there are a few guys in
alt.autos.dodge.trucks that are very knowledgeable..
How much traffic do you drive in? City traffic and freeway traffic. I really
don't mind driving a stick, but pumping a heavy clutch is not my idea of
fun. If its not too heavy of a clutch, or if your able to just ride the rpms
a little then I would actually prefer the manual, for just the reason you
said.Also, your able to shift EXACTLY when you want to a manual, instead of
having that lag with the auto.
I did some checking, and if you put a stock 6-71 GMC blower on a 454, with
out overdriving it with the pulleys, it should work fine.
A friend of mine that's just about an authority on putting 6-71 blowers on
everything said: get it gone over by a blower specialist, like Blower Drive
Service, and don't use 11.0 to 1 pistons, otherwise you'll see a nice head
explosion at about 6,000 RPM.
Maybe I talked more than I should have?
Thanks for the double check. That is what I'd thought too.
I have a detroit specialist at my shop (he apprenticed at Waterous Detroit/
Allison dealership in the early '70s, 35 years with detroits now) He's done
a couple blowers for local monster trucks too. He's shown me how to overhaul
a blower. Plus I've got the detroit service manuals at the shop. I'm doing
mine myself, as that's what I get paid to do. Overhaul and work on this type
of shtuff. I've actually got five 6-71 blowers to harvest best parts
from.........cause a set of new blades from Detroit.......$900.00
CAD.....ouch. Not going to do that.
I'd also planned a 8.5-9:1 CR.
I was still unsure on the belt drive ratio ie underdriven, 1:1, overdriven.
Now I think it's 1:1 as my best bet.
This guy said 1 to 1:
He also said: "If it's not super tightly clearanced, to where it's going to
make a 17 psi boost at 1to1 at 6,000 rpm, he'd go 10to1 compression"
If it was a Ford, he said 9to1 compression, because Ford heads do a
disappearing act sometimes, BBC's are almost as good as a Hemi. He also said
spend a few extra bucks and use head studs, get the block honed with the
studs in and block plates.
He has a 70Mach1 429 with a blower going to a show, in New York some time
next month. That I painted 15 years ago.
On Tue, 27 Jul 2004 00:50:51 -0400, "Refinish King"
I hope to hell you're talking about running alchohol, AVgas, or
propane... at 17psi and 10:1 on 93 octane you'll pound the ring lands
off the pistons in 2 or 3 WOT runs. I'd run 9:1 at the absolute most.
this guy builds Supercharged engines for people;
All over the country and export too. He has to know what he's talking about?
He runs a local Top Fuel dragster, and a gasoline Supercharged Camaro, 454
with 10to1 Childs and Alberts pistons.
All I can say is what I was told. That's why I stopped talking, because
Demon asked a question where I knew I wasn't experienced enough to answer.
Daily driven '98 mustang Cobra, 12-14 psi boot, 10:1 on 91 octane. 48lb
injectors will solve the fuel lean out condition past 5,000rpm. Once that is
fixed, it will be time for 16-17 psi boost, and CO2 fogger on the
intercooler. The owner of this beast (my friend) said its under warranty up
to 20psi boot PLUS nitrous. Its currently putting out 600HP, and is driven
to work every day.
As long as you have proper cooling of the intake air, as well at the
combustion chamber, I think 17psi on 93 at 10:1 can be done. Just make sure
that fuel supply is up to the task! You don't want to lean out with that
much boost! I am also hoping this is NOT a stock bottom end.
I haven't driven a diesel pickup yet, but on the bobtails & semi's,
you shift a lot less than you would with gas, because you have a much
narrower rpm range and a lot more torque..
We're considering the stick if we go Dodge, so we can get the jake
But it has all it's power throughout that range. I have a friend that
says he doesn't get below 3rd in his Ford after leaving his driveway
for work. The diesel will pull out of the bottom of the rpm range
I only notice that my transmission (Allison) goes through all the gears as I
speed up, but the engine rpm stays right about 1800. But whatever gear I
am in has lots of torque. Even at idle, at about 1200 rpm, it will back up
a pretty steep incline.
I would like to have a Diesel with a Jake brake... but also like the remote
start option, so the engine can be warmed up or at least warmer, by the time
I get to it. I hate just jumping into my truck staring it up and going.
Auto start with a manual can be rather exciting if you leave it in gear. I
would think they would have a sensor to see if tis in gear or not though.
Just how effective are the Jake brakes? how long can you ride the Jake? are
they hard on the engine?
Well I don't think Jacobs brakes are any harder on the engine. I mean rigs
million mile the engines before first inframe overhaul with jakes. And Banks
has a slick exhaust brake, aids in engine heat up by shooting the back
pressure way up. Same exhaust principle on the braking side.
ok, now time for the big question! having a jake on the Dodge Ram, does it
make that rumbling sound like the big rigs????? ;-) thats all that matters
really. Actually, I like the idea of saving the service brakes, especially
when it comes to long decents when you just need to scrub off a little speed
now and then.
I have to really hit the "as I understand it" thing here, but I think
that the jake for the pickup is an exhaust brake and the one for
semi's is a true "engine brake" that involves valves and stuff...
Anyway, from what I've read, they don't raise the noise level near as
much as a semi..
We're thinking that it would be a great thing to have when going down
grades with our TT, but I guess that a lot of folks feel that you
don't need one with the larger brakes on the newer trucks..
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.