I need to replace the original rear U-Joints on my 1989 Full Size
Chevy Blazer. I was looking at them and noticed that they do not have
the usual circlips but instead there is some sort of plug or pin going
into the side of the bearing cups. How do I take these apart myself if
possible. I do not have a torch if heat is needed. How are the cups
held in place on original. If I replace with after market ones will
there be clips or do they have to be secured like the originals?
It's strange I have the complete comprehensive factory service
manuals. There is a complete section on the propeller shaft and how to
balance it, check it for run-out, and how to completely replace the
propeller shaft, but there is absolutely no mention on how to just
replace the universal joints alone? WTF!
should see a tiny stub sticking out opposite sides where they squirted it
in. You supposed to be able to heat up with one of those little propane
torches, but I've never been able to get it to melt out without forcing the
u-joint and knocking the shaft out of balance.
It's about time for you to get that torch, Rocky.....go get a MAPP gas one
instead of propane - it's *much* hotter and will get that job (and many
more) done without even thinking about it.
Wear eye protection (if not a full face shield) while you're heating that
stuff up, it likes to pop and shoot hot plastic out.....once you get *all*
the plastic out, you should be able to get the old joint out with a big
C-clamp and a couple of appropriate sockets....
Remember, putting the new ones in - they've gotta be perfectly clean, and
stuff 'em with enough new grease once you get it installed. Keep 'em
greased and they'll last another 15 years....
I used an oxy-acetylene torch with a welding tip. By using the very
smallest tip in my set I just heated the centre of the bearing caps
red hot and watched as the plastic came boiling out of the u-joint.
First i heated one and the then the opposite one and then I was able
to take them apart the old fashioned way with a vise and sockets. The
first one cooled off while I concentrated on the next one but the
plastic was sufficiently weakened to get the job done.
by using the small tip and NOT heating the yoke itself there was only
damage done to the parts that were being thrown out anyway.
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