Help mw ID this cam

Just picked up a engine. Has a new cam and lifters. It is a roller cam. Part numbers are 097 01R and 586FM61. Looks fairly agressive with a good lift.
Like I said, it's new obvious 0 miles on cam and lifters. Hate to throw it out but I have to know what it is so I can match the chip to it if it will work for my intentions.
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Just a little more info. I stole a engine last nigt. Not really but almost. A friend of my wife's was over and we got to talking about her sister's divorce. Left in her garage from her former husband was a engine he was building for his 66 Impalla. Now for sale. I loaded up to take a look. I ran the numbers and it was a 90 roller cam block. Bought it for 300.00. Got it home last night and started tearing down. 191 heads with stainless 2.02/1.60 valves, new springs,retainers and all. Not pinned or no screw ins. Valves look huge in those little chambers! A little unshrouding done. Flat top with valve reliefs, unknown mfg but they are forged. Stock rods with ARP's. Obvious freshly balanced but ground so far they probably wont ever be balanced again. Eagle forged crank. ARP main studs set up for windage tray. Pulled off 2 piece edelbrock timing cover, probably end up on eBay. I hate those leaky 2 piece. Had a link chain timing kit for a non roller cam. Trashed and installed a cloyes dbl roller. The guy aparently didn't know the diffrence between roller and non roller set up. Also was off on cam timing by a tooth. Had a balancer part way installed. have no idea what kind of balancer it is but I tossed it. Would hit timing cover if installed all the way. Gonna pull the crank and rod bearings, plastiguage and measure endplay before I retourqe the engine.Also he didn't clean the engine before reassembly. Grit everywhere. But I am still lost on this cam. He bought new roller lifters but they are not GM parts. The cam has either a yellow or light green stripe in front of the dist gear and blue behind it. I don't have the tools to properly measure the lift, seperation and duration accuratly. But with 0 miles I would hate to just toss a couple hundred dollars worth of steel in the trash. I'm guessing with the high compression set up and obvious intentions for the motor that this won't be a good truck cam but I got my fingers crossed. The machine receipt I found for the heads was over 800.00 for parts and machine work to open these small runner iron beasts up for large valves. I am hoping that if he spent that kind of money instead of buying a good set of heads that his cam selection was off also.

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David Johnson wrote:

    Call Jegs or Summit Racing and see if there Tech Support people can ID the Cam. They should have the proper books to atleast get the makers name.
    The Pistons should have the part number and markers ID either on the outter skirt, or the inner skirt. If the engine is over bored, it should list how much on the piston face if not it should be marked 'STD' for standard bore on the piston face.
    Pull the pistons out, make sure the bores mic out properly, with a good cross hatch. Pull the cam out and make sure the barrings are not nicked! Make sure the cam was installed with assembly lube/brake in lube.
    Use a good Fell-Pro gasket kit, and spring for the Perma-Dry gaskets where applicable. Charles
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