Honey Coloured Oil in Diesel

Don't sweat the oil color so much - I've seen big rigs with Dietroit Diesels, Cummins and Cats that blacken oil in a heartbeat but as long as they get regular maintenance they always seem to go forever. While Restore did seem to improve the situation for me somewhat, it did take several oil changes (every 3,000 miles) with a can of this stuff at every change before I started to notice any difference. The first thing I noticed was my oil consumption started to drop. I went from using 1.5 qts every 3,000 miles to .5 qts. You have to use this stuff religiously, and I was convinced it was worth the extra money.

Cheers - Jonathan

Reply to
Jonathan Race
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On my '04 Duramax I changed the original oil with non-synthetic at 500,

1000, and 3000 miles. Then I switched to full synthetic at 5,000 miles and change it every 5,000 with the same. I didn't take any long trips until after 500 miles, and then didn't tow anything until after 1000 miles.

At 30,000 miles my oil consumption is less than 1/2 quart every 5,000 miles (take out 9 1/2, put in 10). I use Amsoil 15w-40 full synthetic, but before anyone goes off on me about using Amsoil let me just say that I can't find

15w-40 in Mobil-1 locally. Amsoil ships it directly to my house and is pretty competative in price. I make no claims that it is any better or worse than any other full synthetic, I just use it because I can't get anything else more conviently. If I could go to any of the half dozen or so local auto parts stores and get Mobil-1 15w-40 at the same price or cheaper than what I'm paying for Amsoil then I would do it just to save myself the shipping cost. When I'm feeling really cheap, the distributor is just an hour away in north west Orlando.

Cheers - Jonathan

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Reply to
Jonathan Race

Out of curioustiy what oil are you using?

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

Hi

My renault is a 5 speed manual, that's why I'm talking about 3600. For the 5L7 I'm surprised of the speed that you said , but I don't often have luck to drive one of them so I must be mistaken with another european usual speed ( 110 kmh ?? )

If you can check and let let me know this may be interest to me.

snoman : Ok , said a engine must turn slowly to extend life isn't enough.. what I mean is that a engine build to turn and be used at a slow speed should have a longer life that a fastly one .. Look the big diesel in trucks, boat, electric generating unit ....... There are big, turn slowly and have very big torque.

I think that a big engine who turn at 1000 rpm is better than a small one who turn at 3000 rpm for the same power ..

have a good day .

david

Reply to
david

In my old '95 Chevy with the 6.5L turbo diesel (the truck in which I was using the Restore) I used Shell Rotella-T 15w-40 and changed it every 3,000 miles. That motor only took 7 quarts.

In my current '04 Chevy 2500HD with the Duramax I use Amsoil full synthetic

15w-40 (10 qts every 5,000 miles), but before anyone goes off on me about using Amsoil let me just say that I can't find 15w-40 in Mobil-1 or Rotella full synthetic locally. Amsoil ships it directly to my house and is pretty competitive in price, but I make no claims that it is any better or worse than any other full synthetic. I just use it because I can't get anything else more conviently. If I could go to any of the half dozen or so local auto parts stores and get Mobil-1 15w-40 at the same price or cheaper than what I'm paying for Amsoil then I would do it just to save myself the shipping cost. The reason why I don't buy Mobil-1 over the internet and have it shipped is because the Amsoil distributor is an hour away in NW Orlando, and sometimes when I'm in that part of town I can go pick it up and save myself the shipping.

Cheers - Jonathan

Reply to
Jonathan Race

I agree, but the other part of the equation in extending engine life is consistency of speed and load. The larger, slower engines also last longer because they aren't subjected to stop-and-go use with wide fluctuations in RPM and load. A motor like that will perform better and last longer if it is kept as a constant speed and constant load for most of it's life. I'm a fan of higher torque (as compared to higher horsepower) because a motor with more torque needs a narrower range of RPM's to move the load than one with lower torque, and avoiding wide fluctuations in RPM is prefereble in motors that move heavy loads.

Cheers - Jonathan

Reply to
Jonathan Race

I've been a fan of Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 siense shortly after it came out (took me awhile to break away from straight 30) I've used it in Macks, Whites, Detroits, and Cummins (been lucky and avoided cat power most of my trucking life :) ) But oil is one of those things you can argue all day long and not change anyone's mind. Kinda like trying to show a ford owner the error of his ways.

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

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It depends on how you define broken in. A regular breakin takes 3000 to 5000 miles give or take but as the engine continues to run it wears a bit more with time and loosens up a bit more tolerance wise and they may not make there best MPG until they get 50,000 miles or more on them so this is were you here the long break in. I refer to breakin period with a new engine as the time it takes for everything to seat properly and for engine to beable to make max power without any lose of engine life becuase it is pushed too hard too soon and for me it is the first period I quoted with the first 1000 miles or so been the most critical.

Reply to
SnoMan

dozen

What is wrong with Shell Rotella SYN 5w40 and is about $13/gallon at a Walmart? Amsoil has alway been way overpriced for what it offers.

Reply to
SnoMan

Maybe a diesel but I have seen some gas engines that cruise at 3000 RPM and more at speed big and small go 200K miles with no problems. It is the load vs RPM that drive a engine to e early grave not it RPM if its in a design RPM range. If is easier on a engine for it to work at

3000 RPM than to be forced to lug at 2000 RPM or less under that same HP requirements.
Reply to
SnoMan

"" wrote: > "Jonathan Race" wrote in message > news:u%Qye.13630$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net... > > In my old '95 Chevy with the 6.5L turbo diesel (the truck in > which I was > > using the Restore) I used Shell Rotella-T 15w-40 and changed > it every > 3,000 > > miles. That motor only took 7 quarts. > >

The best thing that can be said about any good oil is change it regularly and more often under severe service and you will get best possible engine life, gas or diesel.

Reply to
SnoMan

Its all apples and oranges for the most part. You run an engine the way it was designed to be run and it lasts. Big diesels like Cats, Cummins, Detroit, etc are slow engines because the weight of the recipricating parts demand that they be slow engines. More than one idiot driver while I was in the service thought he/she (yeah had two females do it) would be slick and turn the governers up on their trucks, only to have bearings fail and more than one even toss a rod through the block, the gold star goes to the idiot who turned it up 1000 rpm on a 10 ton powered by a v-8 mack, put a piston through the cylinder head at 2,600 rpm according to the tachograph. governed rpm was supposed to 1,900 rpm. These are big bore long stroke engines. The rods are heavy, and the pistons weigh a ton. The bore and stroke in a Detroit Series 60 11ltr is

5.12 X 5.47 inches, The series 55 12 ltr has a 5.04 X 6.10 . You start getting into the stationary, marine, or train engines and you get 2 or 4ltrs per cylinder in 8V, 12V, or 16V configs. The Cat C15 is 5.4 X 6.75 inches, 928 cubic inches inline 6 cylinder (15.2ltrs) 550 hp at 2100 rpm, 1850 lb-ft of torque at 1200 rpm. Drop down the the C11 (11.1 ltr) and the numbers drop to 5.12 X 5.51, hp down to 370, and torque 1450. My old Kenworth T-600 with a cummins NT-14 435e could keep up with anything bob tail, and embarrased more than a few guys in cars off the line, and never turned more than 2,100 rpm.

compare this to the duramax 7800 7.8 ltr inline 6 engine with a bore and stroke of 4.53 X 4.92 200 hp, 520 lb ft of torque at 2,200 rpm, or the duramax 6.6 V-8 with 4.05 X 3.89 inches 310 hp at 3,500 rpm and 605 at

1,600 rpm. The rpms have gone up, the bore and stroke have gotten smaller, the parts weigh a lot less. Get to the 8100 V-8 4.25 X 4.37inches and our rpms are over 4,000 for hp, and over 3,000 rpm for peak torque..

course the Duramax weighs about 1/3 what a cummins NT-14 435E, or Cat C11, or Detroit Series 60 11 ltr weigh. The fact is heavy parts dont handle high rpm and stay together, coupled with heavy parts store a lot of energy when they are moving. There is a reason those old exposed flywheel engines had such large flywheels compared to their displacement. You take a light duty truck engine, gear it to keep the rpm down and try pulling a load, it wont get out of its own weigh, and wont last very long ether. Same token gear it too high and you'll burn the engine up. Ever notice how the old inline 6 engines always had a larger diameter and heavier fly wheel than the small block V-8s did?

Whitelightning

Reply to
Whitelightning

Nothing is wrong with it except that the two Wal-Marts close to me don't carry it in the 15w-40 I use.

Cheers - Jonathan

Reply to
Jonathan Race

Last winter I drove a highway plough (SW Ontario). It was an unusually heavy winter and we had lots of deep, wet, heavy snow all winter long. The truck was a Sterling with a Mercedes power plant. I've never driven anything like it. I've driven Internationals, Louisvilles, Macks, (not "ever kinda rig what's ever bin made" but close) and I was amazed by the smooth power this rig delivered. I'm a Mercedes fan now.

The only probs we had were sensors and electronics, and there were only a couple of those. The tranny was a little unforgiving, but I don't need much forgiveness.

-JD

Reply to
John D

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