installed an Edelbrock 10" air cleaner.. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!

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My memory aint what it once was, but it seems to me we used to place 2-4 inch high "velocity" stacks between the air filter housing and the carbs to increase horsepower and torque. The idea being to give the air a chance to start flowing in a smooth downward direction. and also speed the air flow up through the carb. So removing the base adaptor in favor of a flat floor air cleaner housing seems to go counter to that line of thinking. Given how hot under hood temperatures are, not using a snorkel system of some sort seems counter productive as well. will agree the stock ones in most cases are too small, and modifying them to use two hoses such as Buick, Olds and Chrysler did back in the day (as well as others) would be the way to go coupled with a 4" velocity stack. As to Harry's question about WOT, I put Brett between 17 and 24 closer to 17, so I would say the poor rig spends considerable time at WOT.
Whitelightning
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On Sun, 15 May 2005 21:42:30 GMT, "Whitelightning"

-Bret
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On Sun, 15 May 2005 21:42:30 GMT, "Whitelightning"

removing the PCV adapter is to get the injectors and fuel pressure regulator out of the way.
which if you look at
http://home.gwi.net/~amychase/images/shrouded_injector.jpg
you'll see that they take up more than half of the area allowed by the PCV spacer. carburators don't have to worry about injectors or FPR's. the only thing in the bores are the annular boosters and they take up less than 10% of the area. this is why *in this application* a flat bottomed aircleaner with a tall element is better than a velocity stack.
the bigger problem is illustrated by:
http://home.gwi.net/~amychase/images/snorkel1.jpg
and
http://home.gwi.net/~amychase/images/snorkel2.jpg
the snorkel, which is over 2 feet long is a meager 1"X4" on the outside and makes 3-90 degree turns. so giving the pipe an internal area of 2.8sq in (assuming a wall thickness of .125". of course the throttle bores have a combined area of 4.4 sq. in. aka a loss of more than 36% of flow potential.

no one said it wasn't. all I ever said was the open air cleaner *in this application* is better than the *stock* configuration
will agree the stock ones in

well with a 4" stack, the stock air box would be sticking through the hood.

I love how these always devolve into "you're some dumb punk kid who doesn't know shit". I'm a 31 year old happily married father of 3 and my truck sees WOT about 2% of the time, if it's even that high.
-Bret
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I'll admit to making a bad assumption on the age based on the wording of the first post. It sounds like a 17 year old whose parents gave him a decent chunk of change for his birthday.
Whitelightning
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The air cleaner is $24.95 at Autozone..........you define that as a decent chunk of change?
Doc

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wrote:

got a similar truck 92 version k1500 350 TBI
what did you do with the pvc plumbing?
is the 10" the largest in diameter that will fit on that style engine?
also saw you guages on your web site moutned on the A-pillar... what did you use to adhere the pod mount to the a-pillar?
Thanks, Elbert
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Elbert Clarke
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On Fri, 13 May 2005 17:10:28 -0500, Elbert

on the bottom of the Edelbrock air cleaner there is a port for a PCV breather hose. I removed the spacer ring and ran a 1/2" hose from that port to a shortened section of the factory hard pipe to the grommet in the valve cover. I'm planning on getting the Edelbrock #4410 breather with nipple to replace the black plastic hard pipe. on my LJ, in the picture of the base, the port is directly under my thumb.

yes and no...
if you can find a 14" air cleaner with a flat bottom, it'll fit.

it's an autometer gauge cage that comes with 4 plastic fasteners that you drill holes for and push them in.
-Bret
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wrote:

Ok I figured as much on the pvc plumbing...
I believe what we use to call plastic rivits would work on what you are talking about on the guage pod.
I don't care for the OEM PVC air cleaner extension either
I'm a fan of the old style "hot-rod" type air clearners but they do pull in all the hot underhood air. I think the factory setup that pulls air from the RH fender well is a pretty good idea. I removed the hot air intake section from the OEM air cleaner and that heat operated valve becuae I no longer could tell it was opening up all the way. I cut some sheet metal and rivited it across the gap where the valve use to be. I don't see the need for the hot air intake from the exhaust manifold on a fuel injected engine anyway.
Elbert
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On Fri, 13 May 2005 20:40:11 -0500, Elbert

if you look, air isn't actually drawn from the fender well, the air is drawnfrom directly behind the passenger side headlights and routed through the fender opening before making a 90deg turn to get through the inner fender. I had had the TAC disabled for a long time, as mine no longer functioned at all... it was like my truck was trying to get air through a straw. the theory behind the TAC is to help warm the air to prevent fuel from sticking to the cold sides of the intake manifolds. in this respect a TBI motor and a carbed motor are no different.
I've also got the rubber fender liners removed so I could get better cooling (old radiator was marginal) so it doesn't get all that hot in the engine compartment. I'd like to make or buy a functional cowl induction hood.. but time will tell.
-Bret
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wrote:

you're right on the air intake path.... I had never bothered to verify exactly where the point of entry was located. guess thats the pickup version of a "cold-air-intake".
I do like the sound of the open element air filter though.
I can't say if my truck runs better with the open style air filter in comparison with the OEM setup, but I do like the looks, and simplicity / sound of the "old-school" edelbrock air filter assembly. I did find about a 3" tall air filter to fit the 10" air cleaner, I believe a 4" tall filter would be about perfect. Anyone know a part number for a reliable filter let me know.
Elbert
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friday night Test n Tune at the Local dragstrip would prove just how wrong you are.
stock 3 passes that are consistant then swap on that 10" air cleaner then run again, 3 passes that are consistant
whats the difference?
0.02 of a second? , that would be the weight of the fuel burnt.

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It's been done and on high performance engines it yields about 15hp. On any other engine it yields about 5hp, less then anyone can tell by driving it.
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flow-rate air cleaner will increase the flow to the TBI unit or carb., This spacer will lift the inectors out of the bore effectively increasing the airflow capacity of the TBI unit (it's like enlarging the throat of the TBI unit. High pro air cleaners work but you can't flow more air than will pass through the unit and that (flow capacity) is dependent upon the size of the TBI or carb bore.
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I am just gonna put my 2cents in...
It has been proven for years that a cold air intake will clearly outperform an open element once under hood temps rise above exterior temps. The problem with 90% of the factory air intakes, is that they are designed for looks and sound deadening FIRST, and flow second.
I fabricated a dual snorkel setup on my 'Burban and gained a handful of tenths in average MPG. Slightly noticeable gain in performance especially going down the freeway. I also had ALLOT better drivability for stop and go driving!
I always ran a 10inch open element filter with 2 4inch(or so)Fram elements stacked on top of each other. Sick of always having a filthy element after ANY off-road excursion and sick of replacing them every oil change(as was mentioned), I installed a closed element filter from a late '80's Chevy(tall element type) and routed the tubing to a fairly open area of the radiator support. I immediately felt a difference in performance. and lost track of how many miles were on the element with hardly any dirt. I also got 2-3 MPG better!
Just my 2cents...

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