My memory aint what it once was, but it seems to me we used to place 2-4
inch high "velocity" stacks between the air filter housing and the carbs to
increase horsepower and torque. The idea being to give the air a chance to
start flowing in a smooth downward direction. and also speed the air flow
up through the carb. So removing the base adaptor in favor of a flat floor
air cleaner housing seems to go counter to that line of thinking.
Given how hot under hood temperatures are, not using a snorkel system of
some sort seems counter productive as well. will agree the stock ones in
most cases are too small, and modifying them to use two hoses such as Buick,
Olds and Chrysler did back in the day (as well as others) would be the way
to go coupled with a 4" velocity stack.
As to Harry's question about WOT, I put Brett between 17 and 24 closer to
17, so I would say the poor rig spends considerable time at WOT.
On Sun, 15 May 2005 21:42:30 GMT, "Whitelightning"
removing the PCV adapter is to get the injectors and fuel pressure
regulator out of the way.
which if you look at
you'll see that they take up more than half of the area allowed by
the PCV spacer. carburators don't have to worry about injectors or
FPR's. the only thing in the bores are the annular boosters and they
take up less than 10% of the area. this is why *in this application* a
flat bottomed aircleaner with a tall element is better than a velocity
the bigger problem is illustrated by:
the snorkel, which is over 2 feet long is a meager 1"X4" on the
outside and makes 3-90 degree turns. so giving the pipe an internal
area of 2.8sq in (assuming a wall thickness of .125". of course the
throttle bores have a combined area of 4.4 sq. in. aka a loss of more
than 36% of flow potential.
no one said it wasn't. all I ever said was the open air cleaner *in
this application* is better than the *stock* configuration
will agree the stock ones in
well with a 4" stack, the stock air box would be sticking through the
I love how these always devolve into "you're some dumb punk kid who
doesn't know shit". I'm a 31 year old happily married father of 3 and
my truck sees WOT about 2% of the time, if it's even that high.
got a similar truck 92 version k1500 350 TBI
what did you do with the pvc plumbing?
is the 10" the largest in diameter that will fit on that
also saw you guages on your web site moutned on the A-pillar...
what did you use to adhere the pod mount to the a-pillar?
on the bottom of the Edelbrock air cleaner there is a port for a PCV
breather hose. I removed the spacer ring and ran a 1/2" hose from
that port to a shortened section of the factory hard pipe to the
grommet in the valve cover. I'm planning on getting the Edelbrock
#4410 breather with nipple to replace the black plastic hard pipe.
on my LJ, in the picture of the base, the port is directly under my
yes and no...
if you can find a 14" air cleaner with a flat bottom, it'll fit.
it's an autometer gauge cage that comes with 4 plastic fasteners that
you drill holes for and push them in.
Ok I figured as much on the pvc plumbing...
I believe what we use to call plastic rivits would work
on what you are talking about on the guage pod.
I don't care for the OEM PVC air cleaner extension either
I'm a fan of the old style "hot-rod" type air clearners but they do
pull in all the hot underhood air. I think the factory setup that
pulls air from the RH fender well is a pretty good idea. I removed the
hot air intake section from the OEM air cleaner and that heat
operated valve becuae I no longer could tell it was opening up all the
way. I cut some sheet metal and rivited it across the gap where the
valve use to be. I don't see the need for the hot air intake from the
exhaust manifold on a fuel injected engine anyway.
if you look, air isn't actually drawn from the fender well, the air
is drawnfrom directly behind the passenger side headlights and routed
through the fender opening before making a 90deg turn to get through
the inner fender. I had had the TAC disabled for a long time, as mine
no longer functioned at all... it was like my truck was trying to get
air through a straw. the theory behind the TAC is to help warm the
air to prevent fuel from sticking to the cold sides of the intake
manifolds. in this respect a TBI motor and a carbed motor are no
I've also got the rubber fender liners removed so I could get better
cooling (old radiator was marginal) so it doesn't get all that hot in
the engine compartment. I'd like to make or buy a functional cowl
induction hood.. but time will tell.
you're right on the air intake path.... I had never bothered to verify
exactly where the point of entry was located. guess thats the pickup
version of a "cold-air-intake".
I do like the sound of the open element air filter though.
I can't say if my truck runs better with the open style air filter
in comparison with the OEM setup, but I do like the looks, and
simplicity / sound of the "old-school" edelbrock air filter assembly.
I did find about a 3" tall air filter to fit the 10" air cleaner, I
believe a 4" tall filter would be about perfect. Anyone know a part
number for a reliable filter let me know.
friday night Test n Tune at the Local dragstrip would prove just how wrong
stock 3 passes that are consistant
then swap on that 10" air cleaner
then run again, 3 passes that are consistant
whats the difference?
0.02 of a second? , that would be the weight of the fuel burnt.
flow-rate air cleaner will increase the flow to the TBI unit or carb.,
This spacer will lift the inectors out of the bore effectively
increasing the airflow capacity of the TBI unit (it's like enlarging the
throat of the TBI unit. High pro air cleaners work but you can't flow
more air than will pass through the unit and that (flow capacity) is
dependent upon the size of the TBI or carb bore.
There are two classes of pedestrians in these days of reckless motor
traffic - the quick and the dead.
~ Lord Dewar 1933 ~
Climbing into a hot car is like buckling on a pistol. It is the great
equalizer. ~ Henry G. Felsen 1964 ~
I am just gonna put my 2cents in...
It has been proven for years that a cold air intake will clearly
outperform an open element once under hood temps rise above exterior temps.
The problem with 90% of the factory air intakes, is that they are designed
for looks and sound deadening FIRST, and flow second.
I fabricated a dual snorkel setup on my 'Burban and gained a handful of
tenths in average MPG. Slightly noticeable gain in performance especially
going down the freeway. I also had ALLOT better drivability for stop and go
I always ran a 10inch open element filter with 2 4inch(or so)Fram
elements stacked on top of each other. Sick of always having a filthy
element after ANY off-road excursion and sick of replacing them every oil
change(as was mentioned), I installed a closed element filter from a late
'80's Chevy(tall element type) and routed the tubing to a fairly open area
of the radiator support. I immediately felt a difference in performance. and
lost track of how many miles were on the element with hardly any dirt. I
also got 2-3 MPG better!
Just my 2cents...
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