Maybe if it is front wheel drive only. You want the chains on the
rear otherwise regardless of what some claim because you what to
beable to keep the rear of the vechile behind your where it belongs
and chains in the front on a 4x4 or rear wheel drive will let the
vehciles rear end want to pass the front end at time. Chains in rear
or on all four wheel with ice and snow. Even a 2wd vehical with rear
wheel drive that has chains on it will badly out class a 4x4 without
them in snow and ice. They are a bit of a pain to install and noisy
but they have no peer on snow and ice and will transform even a mild
2wd into a "tank" in winter weather.
I do not share this view based on using them for 30 years. THe general
stament they make are not true and too broad. They also fail to
mention that in 4x4 on ice you loss directional control because tuires
need to turn a different RPM in tirn and they cannot do this in 4x4
(unless it is a full time system with a differentail in the Tcase) so
they tires break traction in a turn and you loose directional control.
Again chains on front of a 4x4 is bad combo because you can trade ends
pretty easy. Run in 2wd with chains of rear for best control or
chains on all 4 wheels. Next on a front wheel drive, I have driven
with them so I know first hand what they do. Unlike a rear wheel drive
car, the rear tires are just going along for the ride and have no
drive torque on them and do not tend to break loss of trade ends
unless it is a very extreme manuver. You can tell by the
generalization of the article in the link the writer has truely not
"been there, done that". I have. More people spin out in 4x4 on ice
and take a trip to the ditch because of the false sense of security
articles and claims like that make about stabilty on ice. The only
conbo you want front chains on is on a FWD not a 4x4. My wife drives a
2000 Cherokee with a 4cyl a 5 speed and 2wd that we bought new to work
and it wears studded tires on rear in winter and it easily out
performs 4x4's on ice that are studless. A few of her coworkers have
scratched their heads as to how she gets by so well in even the worst
of ice conditions when they bought 4x4 Cherokees and GC's and made a
couple of trips to the ditch on ice first winter they had them and
sold them next summer for a FWD car. You want to keep best traction in
rear with a 4x4 or rear wheel drive vehicle period.
Rather than get advice from people like the one above who doesn't know
what he is talking about you should call The State Police in the state that
requires chains and I'm sure they will help you right out. It's probably on
their State Website as well....
Snowjob on the FWD. Engine breaking CAN cause the rear to keep going in
certain conditions (downhill for instance as was the case with my s-i-l,
such as where the op drives) and chains on only the front can multiply the
breaking effect on the front wheels only. It is like using only the front
brakes on a bike or motorcycle, POTENTIALLY DEADLY!!!!!!!!!! Best to have
chains on all 4 wheels in a FWD vehicle.
No you are the snojob here. I have lived with them in a place were you
did not see the pavement for 6 months on some roads and i NEVER had a
problem with the rear trying to pass the front with chains/cables on
the front of a FWD. As a matter of fact the FWD toyota i had was the
preffered rig when traveling at 30 and 40 below because it warmed up
and rolled nicly in extreme cold with all drive components under hood
and a bra blocking airflow into engine compartment. Both my 4x4 felt
like they were dragging anchors at those temps with thick lube in
axles and tcase (even with syn lube) Again if you had been there and
done that you would know but you have not but you still think you know
what is best. Knock yoursself out. I have seen it so darn cold that
wheel bearing grease can freeze and you have to break them loose to
roll the car. BTW, at 30 and 40 below ice is actually pretty grippy
(for ice anyway) because tires never gets warm enough to melt it at
contact area and grease the surface.
It is a snowjob when you think YOUR experience is the totality of the truth.
My s-i-l came within inches of death by the rear end spinning past the front
of a FWD car (her car came to a stop only inches from going over a cliff).
All she did was use engine braking by taking her foot off the gas going
downhill. Just because YOU didn't have that problem doesn't mean the
problem doesn't exist. Snowjob from the Snoman.
As a matter of fact the FWD toyota i had was the
Which explains why you are toatally ignorant of the lower 48 problems.
I think with will call you malarkey Mike. It is not my fault if person
was incompetent driving. I see lots of them out there every winter
thinlk they are in control with no respect for road conditions. THey
were simply going to fast for conditions, no mystery here. And if it
had been a RWD car they would have lost it worse. There is no magic
cure for poor driving in poor conditons other than to remove driver
from it if they are unable to properly adapt to it. I have logged tens
of thousands of miles driving in ice in snow and I have NEVER had a
accident doing it or a trip to the ditch but I have seen more
incompetant drivers than I can count that over drive the conditions,
get in trouble and then attack the car as fault rather than the nut
behind the wheel because the car only does what it told or allowed to
do and any fwd is far safey on ice and snow than any rwd car when no
traction aids are in use. BTW I have seen far more 4x4's and rear
wheel drive cars in ditch than FWD ones. Same every winter
We just picked our way to town the night before last through 3" of
rain and "sugar" snow. The route is punctuated with hills and curves.
Can't think of a hill without a curve (at least one) on it. Most of
the curves are banked the wrong way.
Took the truck as it is RWD and as soon as the foot comes up off the
gas it tugs the rear end behind the front end.. We have had scary
rides with the FWD car and would phone in first before taking it out
of the driveway under such circumstances.
As it was, the normally 50 minute drive took all of 1-1/2 hours.
FWD is great as long as you don't have to use it in snow. Some of
these hills are big and you have to give it gas (IF you have any
traction) to keep the front end in front but you are going to fast you
have to keep off the gas to slow down but then the front end becomes
slower than the front end and you wind up down a 12' embankment with a
stunned look on your face.
When FWD was rare I cannot remember as many cases of cars crossing the
center line as there are now (every winter). I wonder what tales the
dead drivers would tell IF they had the chance.
Anyway - Slow down. You'll live longer.
Snowman - Don't try so hard (you know what I mean).
I find it a little odd that YOU would attempt to hang a name on anybody.
Especially given the fact that you have been given a bunch of names at every
group you've been involved in. All of them truthful and fitting.
In the spirit of the holidays I'll give you a reminder, don't push the
Here ya go!
Pretty easy ain't it, and it fits.
Oh, with all your experience with snow I think it a little strange that you
didn't mention snow tires that have the snowflake stamped on the side wall.
In many states if the tire has the snowflake on it you don't have to chain
up. Blizzak was one tire. Or did they change the regs in the past couple of
years since I last looked?
You will notice that I do not cuss or swear here like others and if I
slip up and "name" someone it is because they are so full of malarkey
or the like that they might as well go by the name. So many here are
experts on subjects they know nothing about. (these are the ones that
are so insecure and threatened by someone that might actual know
something that they attack me to make themselves feel more secure
because if they do not know or understand it, it must be wrong) My
comments are based on first hand expericance, physics and science not
on a feeling on something I read somewhere and now I am a expert like
most here. If you want to knock it or learn from it the choice is
yours. Your loss not mine.
You are correct. Once a FWD vehicle starts to "go" there is no way to
Where I live we have a long and pretty steep grade that we call "mile
hill". If you don't slow down before starting to descend and gear
down at that point you run the risk of loosing it big time. You have
a curve (still part of the hill) at the bottom and also a the top and
can very easily be going too fast to make the bottom curve. Dropping
a gear at that point makes the rear end pass the front end.
When you are sliding backwards the drive wheels start to try to spin
backwards, causing the engine to die - and then you loose the power
brakes and steering.
When a person has learned to drive with RWD they automatically correct
for rear slide by taking their foot off the gas. This is done without
thinking and is hard to unlearn but this very practice can be deadly
The best situation is all 4 wheels anyway since you have to stop and
steer as well as get going.
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