is it possible to have multiple wires arc and have nothing wrong with wires??


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The engine in question is a 4.3 W series - 95 Jimmy 4x4 Vortec with OEM coil and module. I am very curious as to whether or not a bad ignition coil or control module could cause multiple arcs on many different ignition wires. Originally I thought it was only bad at the #6 boot but when I really examine it, it seems that the wires arc all over the place and on different wires. Is it possible to have this occur due to a shot coil, etc? I am getting a multiple cylinder random misfire code.
Ive never seen this before and these are very good ignition wires (Taylor 8.2mm Thundervolt) - they should rename them lightning bolt because thats what they look like at night. Anyway, I did the wires with new plugs (the distributor, cap and rotor were all done last year also). I read somewhere that once in awhile theres a bad run of dielecetic grease. I did use the grease on the boots so Im exploring a conductive grease as another possibility.
Thanks for any and all comments. Andrew.
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<HTML> <HEAD> <TITLE>is it possible to have multiple wires arc and have nothing wrong with wires??</TITLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <FONT FACE="Verdana"><BR> The engine in question is a 4.3 W series - &#8216;95 Jimmy 4x4 Vortec with OEM coil and module.<BR> I am very curious as to whether or not a bad ignition coil or control module could cause multiple arcs on many different ignition wires. &nbsp;Originally I thought it was only bad at the #6 boot but when I really examine it, it seems that the wires arc all over the place and on different wires. &nbsp;Is it possible to have this occur due to a shot coil, etc? &nbsp;I am getting a multiple cylinder random misfire code.<BR> <BR> I&#8217;ve never seen this before and these are very good ignition wires (Taylor 8.2mm Thundervolt) - they should rename them &#8216;lightning bolt&#8217; because that&#8217;s what they look like at night. &nbsp;Anyway, I did the wires with new plugs (the distributor, cap and rotor were all done last year also). &nbsp;I read somewhere that once in awhile there&#8217;s a bad run of dielecetic grease. &nbsp;I did use the grease on the boots so I&#8217;m exploring a &#8216;conductive&#8217; grease as another possibility.<BR> <BR> Thanks for any and all comments.<BR> Andrew.<BR> </FONT> </BODY> </HTML>
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No.
I am getting a

As you should be.

Good wires don't arc like that.

What plugs did you use and did you gap them properly ??
(the

I doubt it's the grease.

My advice would be to get the proper AC Delco plugs and wires for your vehicle and stop wasting money on junk parts.
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in article oYS_h.7918$ snipped-for-privacy@news01.roc.ny, Mike at snipped-for-privacy@localnet.com wrote on 5/4/07 11:35 PM:

I used AC Delco plugs and gapped them according to the label on the vehicle (I think it was .045).

I have never been an fan of 'junk parts' nor do I use them. If you're referring to the Taylor wires, the incidences of them behaving like this are almost non-existent. I forgot to mention that every once in awhile the tach 'freezes' at about 2000rpm and will not 'unfreeze' till the vehicle has been restarted. Does that sound like anything familiar that might fit with this ignition problem?
Thanks again for your insight. Andrew.
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AWN wrote:

Arcing wires are BAD wires. Doesn't matter who made them. If they are arcing they are shot. Just because it is "almost non-existent" means NOTHING.
The tach freeze is probably related to the arcing wires. They are mixing up the signals under the hood by creating a lot of RF energy. That may be swamping the tach signal from the coil.
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Steve W.
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Thanks Steve. I suspected the RFI beast to be at play here but I've never seen anything like this before. It's absolutely silly. Andrew.
in article f1hok7$egl$ snipped-for-privacy@aioe.org, Steve W. at snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote on 5/5/07 7:09 AM:

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That could be the result of all the RF noise being generated by the arcing, but you won't know until you fix the arcing.
If the cables are clean and properly placed, even cheap cables should not be arcing. Either the voltage is too high, the cables are damaged, or the cables are placed improperly. Since you gapped the plugs properly, and you used the correct resistive plugs, the voltage should not be getting too high. (This CAN happen from using metal wires in place of resistive ones, though). So all I can think of is a placement issue.
Better-insulated cables, though, wouldn't hurt anything. --scott
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"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

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Scott, I agree with you on the RFI and seeking better insulation. Thanks. Andrew.
in article f1hrha$rgm$ snipped-for-privacy@panix2.panix.com, Scott Dorsey at snipped-for-privacy@panix.com wrote on 5/5/07 7:58 AM:

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I looked at the Taylor website and they make all sorts of bullshit claims, such as more torque, more horsepower, improved fuel economy, etc....... Don't believe everything you read, none of that will happen just by switching to their wires. Go get a set of factory plug wires and see if your problems go away. If you have a new set of wires and they are arcing they are JUNK. I have tried some of these amazing wire sets years ago and all they do is lighten your wallet. They didn't hold up as well as factory wires and they made no difference in peformance or mileage. Since then I will use nothing but factory wires and I have never had any problems.

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Install AC Delco wires and use wire looms to keep them away from other metal as far as possible....


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Thanks for the advice Mike. I will look into that. I've had good experiences with Taylor in the past but such is not the case here. I found the double 'click' engagement, flexibility, and RFI shieldig to be great. Again, I have not found that to be the case here. I agree with you about the hp gain claims without a modified ignition system, CR, etc. Thanks. Andrew.
in article AU0%h.7929$ snipped-for-privacy@news01.roc.ny, Mike at snipped-for-privacy@localnet.com wrote on 5/5/07 10:54 AM:

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is it possible to have multiple wires arc and have nothing wrong with wires??you might want to check the engine ground cable... its a flat lace cabe that grounds the motor to the frame. It might be broke or lose. it's located rigt next to the fire wall on the passenger side, directly behind the head.
HDS
The engine in question is a 4.3 W series - '95 Jimmy 4x4 Vortec with OEM coil and module.
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Thanks HDS. Do I need to look directly behind the distributor or is this easy to see? I took a quick look but as with all things on this motor, it looks like it might be a yoga exercise to access. Thanks again! Andrew.
in article PE6%h.159123$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe20.lga, HDS at snipped-for-privacy@None.com wrote on 5/5/07 5:27 PM:

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<HTML> <HEAD> <TITLE>Re: is it possible to have multiple wires arc and have nothing wrongwith wires??</TITLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <FONT FACE="Verdana">Thanks HDS. &nbsp;Do I need to look directly behind the distributor or is this easy to see? &nbsp;I took a quick look but as with all things on this motor, it looks like it might be a yoga exercise to access.<BR> Thanks again!<BR> Andrew.<BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> in article PE6%h.159123$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe20.lga, HDS at snipped-for-privacy@None.com wrote on 5/5/07 5:27 PM:<BR> <BR> </FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT SIZE="2"><FONT FACE="Arial">you might want to check the engine ground cable... its a flat lace cabe that grounds the motor<BR> to the frame. It might be broke or lose. it's located rigt next to the fire wall on the passenger side,<BR> directly behind the head</FONT></FONT><FONT FACE="Verdana">.<BR> &nbsp;<BR> </FONT><FONT SIZE="2"><FONT FACE="Arial">HDS<BR> </FONT></FONT><FONT FACE="Verdana"> <BR> </FONT><BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE="Verdana"><BR>The engine in question is a 4.3 W series - 95 Jimmy 4x4 Vortec with OEM coil and module.<BR> &nbsp;<BR> </FONT><FONT FACE="Arial"> <BR> </FONT><FONT FACE="Verdana"><BR> </FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><FONT FACE="Verdana"><BR></FONT> </BODY> </HTML>
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