Kill rust on Chevy

Does anyone know of a good spray type of thing that will take away and freeze rust in it's tracks? Maybe some 3M product or something? Have a couple of places to tend to that aren't real bad, but need to be dealt with.
Thanks.
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with.
POR-15 works great and can be sprayed on thru a paint gun with the proper solvent. Other than than, sanding it down and hitting it with some rust-arresting chemical then priming it would do the trick as well.
Doc

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Wasn't there some crap they put on the primer in the early 90's to stop rust. course my paint won't stick either.

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Isn't there something I can get from a hardware store or at Napa or something? Don't really want to deal with spray gun and all. Thanks and hope to find something.

proper
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The paint comes off of early 90's chevy's cause the EPA forced the removal of lead from the primer mixture because it was considered hazardous; Shitty primer = bad paint adhesion (or so i think; I could be wrong, i am a man after all)
TB

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On Sat, 13 Dec 2003 23:07:06 -0600, "Trailblazer"

it wasn't just GM's that had this problem.... the big 3 all had paint adhesion problems in the late 80's early 90's. IIRC, it wasn't lead removal, as I think that was banned back in like '78 or so in all but industrial apps (bridge paint for example) I think it was a forced reduction in VOC's that did it.. the EPA did it to asphalt shingle manufacturors about 5 years previous to the auto makers. man didn't those shingles suck..
-Bret

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Mark, Yep..... POR15's the way to go. www.por15.com It's a little more work but well worth it. There are also electronic devices that can be installed on your vehicle to prevent further rusting. www.ridestuff.com/jcprodspecs.php?skuZX6191T
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Rebel48

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If you're talking about the places like bottoms of doors I got a trick a body man told me about and I'll be damned if it doesn't work great. I've done this with great success with a couple different materials but it works either way. Use a long tube (thin) on an oiler. Go into the weep holes in the doors and fill the seams with oil (plain motor oil or I"ve found slightly better pnentration by a mix of oil and marvel mystery oil). Leave the areas open and allow excess to drain out. I"ve also had very good results with a product put out from Mystic Oil Co. It's a liquid penetrating grease in a spray can. I've been amazed with this stuff. It sprays out like a thin oil and than "dries" to a clear grease. I like this better since 1. it forces the material around, and 2. once it dries it stays put and doesn't run. It does smell for a while but goes compltely away. Both methods work flawlessly. Just remember to let things drain well and wipe clean afterward. Downside is the trated area tends to get a little dirty so when you're detailing your car/truck you'll want to wipe that area(s) off. UPshot is it defies logic. Because I've used this method where rust had started and it stops it dead and doesn't allow it to spread. I know there are people that will doubt this (some quite strongly) I did until I "did it". Larry

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Boes shield is another oil film product that may work as well.
Cheers

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"extend" dries to a black film and works pretty decent
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Oil coats the steel surfaces and displaces the water (like the use of wd-40 in the old point type distributors for you water waders and mud boggers who remember this)...problem with this solution is that the oil should be reapplied every so often, it shouldn't be used in exposed visible surfaces because it'll look like hell as explained earlier (oil/grease attracts the dirt) or places where you think you're going to do some repairs/upgrades in the near future (people attract oil/grease/dirt and you'll look like hell as well as it being a pain in the butt to work with greasy/oily anything), and more importantly it isn't really good for the enviornment due to the fact that even if oil and water don't mix, water does carry the oil away. Marine boaters have been doing this forever on their boat trailers and trucks - grease over everything that might go into the water: trailer, rims, axles, leaf springs bumpers, tow hitch...
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There's some stuff called "Navel Jelly" that you can get at just about any hardware store. It's supposed to disolve the rust so that you can prime/repaint. I think it's only good for those little spots of surface rust though. I've you've got extensive rusting, it may not work real well.
-NW

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Navel Jelly contains hydrochloric acid, so its only good for exposed surfaces, NOT inside doors and such that cant be washed out.
Cheers

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On Mon, 15 Dec 2003 15:42:57 GMT, "Martin Riddle"

Naval jelly has phosphoric acid, not hydrochloric acid in it. (I'm looking at my bottle of Permatex Naval Jelly)
-Bret
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