I recently lifted, locked, and regeared my Jeep Cherokee for 33" tires
and now my buddy is all jealous that his 2000 S10 Blazer (4-door, not a
ZR2) can't get him to the same fishing holes. So he says 'how can I lift
He would be happy with 31" or 32" tires. I'd like to avoid a body lift.
I'm looking for any info or suggestions on a suspension lift for this
vehicle. I also have some specific questions:
1. I searched for suspension kits and was surprised at how limited the
selection was for the 2K+ Blazer. I see lots of stuff for 19??-1999 S10.
Is this compatible with the 2K Blazer? What changed between 1999 and 2000?
2. I found a 2" Superlift kit (K451) that has front control arms and
rear add-a-leaf with extended shackles. Is this a good (complete) kit?
3. How much tire will 2" susp lift fit without trimming?
4. Could you fit 31s or 32s on a 2" susp lift with trimming and after
market flares? Any recommended flares?
5. I found a 5" Trail Master kit (CT15) that does a spring-over with the
stock leafs. Anyone know if this kit will work with the 2K Blazer? Will
I have trouble with steering geometry or drive line angles?
6. Are there any other suspension lifts out there that will work with
the 2000 Blazer?
7. What differentials does the 2000 Blazer have? Are there any common
junkyard diffs with compatible R&P in 4.10 or 4.56 ratio?
8. I'm very intimate with my Jeep's live front, but I really don't know
much about IFS. Any good '101' sites out there on IFS (S10 Blazer
specifically) that describe issues with lifting?
9. Is there a viable solid axle swap for the front? Would it be easier
to do leafs or 4-link with coils?
1-8: IFS lifts- screw 'em. THEY SUCK!
9: www.s10-4x4.org . There's a couple guys there in the Suspension swap
forums who've done solid axle swaps. I just bought every part I need for my
SFA out of an 87 Wagoneer <fullsize> for $600. That won't pay for 1/3 of the
cost of a IFS swap. Strongly suggest the Wagoneer axles as they are Dana
44s. Dana 30s and 35s are not going to live long under the weight of an
Solid axle is the way to go. I will be doing mine in the next month or two.
Do the SFA- you will not be sorry.
BTW-- I see you regeared for 33s. What motor are you running in your XJ? My
XJ with 3.55's and 33s has plenty of pep. What ratio and motor did you come
<yes, I have a 90 XJ and a 89 S-10 Blazer, both of which I've extensively
Superlift sells a kit for 1983-2003 S-series vehicles. I haven't
dealt with the kit so I don't know the quality. It was the first one
I saw when I searched. All it replaces are the control arms, gives 2"
in front, and adds a leaf for 1" in the rear. All the rest I see, in
about 5 mins. of searching, are for 2WD trucks.
See above, I guess I found the same kit you did.
MAYBE a 31x10.5, depends a little on the wheel. I have a 2000 S-10
ZR2 with 31x11.50's on the stock 15" wheels (RPO PA3) and the flares
needed a little trimming.
Maybe, a ZR2 is 3" higher than a regular S-10 and anything bigger than
a 31 needs trimming.
Driveline angles, yes for the rear. Not sure what the kit does for
the front, but it should also come with corrective parts for ANY
geometry that will get thrown out of whack.
Yours likely has a 7 5/8" ring gear in the back, though an 8.5 is a
very slight possibility. Look here to ID the rear
The front may be a 7 1/4" ring gear. That's what the ZR2 has and all
I can find is that the ZR2 has an "enhanced 7.25" ring gear" front
Main issue is the CV shafts. Whatever you do, you want the shafts to
end up as close to parallel to the ground as possible. The main
killer for them is severe angles, so the most you can minimize the
angles, the longer they'll last. The "best" IFS lift is one that
drops the front diff down as well, to help counteract the CV angle
BTW: Solid axle swaps are MUCH easier to do with leafs. No trig involved,
and they're pretty much a no-brainer.
Bad thing about IFS lifts is-- you don't gain any clearance. The front diff
gets dropped via a drop bracket-- so you don't gain clearance under it. Teh
torsion bars get dropped, too-- so no clearance there. After all is said and
done, you end up having the same lackluster performance the truck had stock,
with very little wheel travel. I think my Blazer gets about 5" of wheel
I'm copying a friend's build, and he gets in the neighborhood of 30" of
Yeah, looks fairly simple. Any gotchas to watch for? Steering, brakes,
hangers, etc? If my buddy goes this route, he's probably looking to
limit lift to 5 or 6 inches - enough to clear 32x11.50 without making
angles too steep on stock drive shafts. Whats a good donor vehicle for
front leafs and shackles/mounts?
If he goes with the 5" Trail Master kit he's going to get these to fix
the torsion bar issue:
> my Blazer gets about 5" of wheel travel, stock.
Compelling argument for solid axle. Specifically what are you doing on
yours? Spring over? How much lift?
All info is available at www.s10-4x4.org
My build is going to be 6" lift at maximum, as measured under the doors of a
stock vehicle. This, coupled with the front axle being moved 2" forward from
stock and the back axle backward 2" from stock, will give me room for 33's
with very little cutting if any needed. <I'll run Bushwhackers, so don't
mind cutting>. Plus, since my wheelbase will be about 4" longer <the same as
a Grand Cherokee> and she'll have a 350 under the hood soon after the swap,
should make the Blazer a pretty decent tow rig for my needs. Folks with V8
Grands regularly use them to tow their trailered Jeeps to the trailhead
My build will use the following:
from 87 Wagoneer <FSJ, not XJ>:
-front axle <D44, driver's drop> in springunder
-front springs <installed backwards- they have a short and a long side as
measured from the center pin. Stock, they are installed long forward on the
-front tierod and all stock Wagoneer attachments to axle
-rear axle <Dana44, but an AMC 20 would be fine, too>
-rear springs <may not be needed-- I'll run the axle in springover out back
with stock Blazer springs and see what I think>. If they're not used on the
Blazer, they might end up under the front of the XJ>
-rear driveshaft <might be possible to use as stock, but I doubt it. At a
minimum, I'll cut the Tcase end and weld on the Chevy side of the Blazer
shaft. Ideally I'll install a SYE kit at the time I do the swap and will
modify the Wagoneer shaft to fit <weld in the slipsplineand so on>
-brake lines. Will measure length before I buy, but from my research and
talkign to folks on the site above, I am pretty sure stock Wagoneer parts
will work fine.
from 91 XJ:
-stock pitman arm <bolts up to the Chevy box and is a 4" drop from stock
from 86 CJ-7:
rear shackle hanger
-front shackle. length to be determined. Will probably fab my own, actually
-front spring hanger. Details here:
-front draglink. Will cut end off of stock Wagoneer part and adapt as
necessary, if at all.
-trackbar and frame-side trackbar mount. Will drive without these first and
see what I think. If necessary, I'll build one that has a quick-disconnect
feature. Will use Johnie Joints at each end.
-spring perches. made from 2X3X1/4 rectangular steel tubing. Long ones in
the rear to fight axle wrap on the springover axle
-after built, measure minimum and maximum lengths for shock mounting points,
and consult Rancho shock charts. Then purchase 9000's all around
-F150 shock mounts, or mounts made of 1" steel rod bent and welded to frame
-5, 6X5.5 pattern black steel wheels that will fit over the hubs on the axle
<measure center hole>. Chevy rally wheels will work, too. You can't get much
cheaper or more practical for wheeling than AR767 steelies- $40 per
-if brakes are soft, use fullsize 86 Blazer 4X4 350 MC. Larger bore for the
larger pistons in the brakes
That should be most of the info you need. Go to www.s10-4x4.org and search
in the Suspension Swap forum for a fellow named DirtyS10- he's the guy I got
all my info from. He's already built this exact truck <he used an AMC20 with
one-piece Moser axles> and it works very well. I've been planning and
researching this build since November of 99. Was going to have it done two
years ago, but I took a little break to learn to weld.
Thanks! That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Sounds like
much better alternative to the IFS lift. Hopefully I can use my buddy's
Blazer as a test run for the D44 front swap I've been thinking about for
my XJ. :) If I have any more questions (I'm sure I will), I'll take
them over to the s10-4x4 forum.
Yeah, I've been looking for one. May have to settle for an earlier year
and do a disc brake conversion. Only downside is the weaker ujoints, but
that can be fixed. Don't think I'd go with the Bronco radius arms.
Probably limit travel too much and I don't want to get into wristed axle
housing mods. Shouldn't be too hard to jig up the required link brackets
so I can retain my RE arms and JKS sway links.
Thanks Mike for the great replies.
Mike Levy wrote:
Avoiding this one for sure. No drop so it increases CV angles. I'm also
not a big fan of the add-a-leaf. Superlift has a 6" kit but its
apparently for ZR2 only. Looks like Trail Master is the only option for
suspension-only IFS lift to clear 32x11.50 tires.
Every part? Cool. Are you going spring-over front and rear? How much
lift? Do you need to fab a crossbar for the front of the frame to hang
the springs? Are you using stock shackles and steering linkage from the
Waggy? Do you keep the Blazer steering box? Using the stock Waggy
brakes? Are the jeep axles close in width to the Blazer's GM 10-bolt?
My buddy uses his Blazer for a daily driver and he is worried about
loosing his posh IFS ride. He's zoned in on this lift:
Looks like a very involved install. I'm trying to convince him to go
live up front - probably similar cost in terms of money and work (for
I have a 90 XJ Laredo, 5-speed AX-15, 4.0L straight six. It had 3.07
diffs stock. I installed 4.10 when I lifted 4.5" and slapped on 33x10.50
bfg muds. Daily driver. Runs nice on the highway. I was considering
4.56, but I found that there were plenty of 4.10s in the junkyards -
came stock on 4-banger jeeps. I since broke my d35 and swapped in an XJ
D44 that I rebuilt with a salvaged Jeep Rubicon Tru-Lok air locker/lsd.
I've got #2. I have the RE adjustable trackbar, and the TRE at the frame end
is the culprit.
I've got Kevin's trackbar kit ready to go in-- to get rid of the TRE
altogether- but just bought a house so can't find the time to do any
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