McQuay- Norris vs Napa Control Arm bushings

I have a 1977 Chevy Suburban C-10 2WD that shakes side to side and clunks/clangs when going over bumps. I took it to a local alignment shop and was quoted $487 to replace all the control arm bushings and do a two wheel
alignment. I have verified some of the rubber bushing are shot visually. I am considering doing the control arm bushings myself.
How hard is it to get the old bushings out/new ones in on an old vehicles like this? Would I most likely need to get then pressed out and new ones pressed in at an auto/machine shop? None of the auto stores seem to carry tool kits to do this. Without the tool kits is it just about impossible to do it myself? I'd guess I'd rate myself a 3 or 4 out of 10 on a auto mechanic scale. Any advice or experiences would be most appreciated.
I would like to know opinions on the quality of NAPA/Moog/Dana Parts vs McQuay-Norris bushings. Are they worth the extra money if I'm only going to drive this couple of years or so? I am pricing parts and this is what I have from NAPA and Checker Auto.
NAPA Chassis Parts One guy says these are Dana Parts and one says they are Moog?? Lower Bushing Item#: NCP2673325 K6422 Price: $ 16.59 X 4 = $66.36 Upper Bushing Item#: NCP2671330 K6413 Price: $ 12.39 X 4 = $49.56 Total = $115.92
Checker Auto
McQuay-Norris Any comments on the quality of these parts? FB355/12312 Upper CONTRL ARM BUSHING $5.49 X 4 = $21.96 FB356/12318 LowerCONTRL ARM BUSHING $5.49 X 4 = $21.96 Total = $43.92
Thanks, Bob
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I've replaced the bushings on two vehicles (a '68 and a '69) and it wasn't too difficult. I did, however, remove the control arms from the vehicle to do it. I can't speak for the McQuay-Norris parts (except that they seem too cheap) but I've been using Moog for years and have never had any problems.
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If you've got an autozone nearby, they sell Perfect Circle (made by Dana), and the set of 8 will run ya $44.88 plus tax. If you don't have one nearby, they'll ship 'em to ya.
Jeremy

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. McQuay- Norris vs Napa Control Arm bushings Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sat, Sep 13, 2003, 2:55pm (CDT-2) From: snipped-for-privacy@nospamcox.net (RobertL.Wells) I have a 1977 Chevy Suburban C-10 2WD that shakes side to side and clunks/clangs when going over bumps. I took it to a local alignment shop and was quoted $487 to replace all the control arm bushings and do a two wheel alignment. I have verified some of the rubber bushing are shot visually. I am considering doing the control arm bushings myself. How hard is it to get the old bushings out/new ones in on an old vehicles like this? Would I most likely need to get then pressed out and new ones pressed in at an auto/machine shop? None of the auto stores seem to carry tool kits to do this. Without the tool kits is it just about impossible to do it myself? I'd guess I'd rate myself a 3 or 4 out of 10 on a auto mechanic scale. Any advice or experiences would be most appreciated. I would like to know opinions on the quality of NAPA/Moog/Dana Parts vs McQuay-Norris bushings. Are they worth the extra money if I'm only going to drive this couple of years or so? I am pricing parts and this is what I have from NAPA and Checker Auto. NAPA Chassis Parts One guy says these are Dana Parts and one says they are Moog?? Lower Bushing Item#: NCP2673325 K6422 Price: $ 16.59 X 4 = $66.36 Upper Bushing Item#: NCP2671330 K6413 Price: $ 12.39 X 4 = $49.56 Total = $115.92 Checker Auto McQuay-Norris Any comments on the quality of these parts? FB355/12312 Upper CONTRL ARM BUSHING $5.49 X 4 = $21.96 FB356/12318 LowerCONTRL ARM BUSHING $5.49 X 4 = $21.96 Total = $43.92
Thanks, Bob ''' Bob, If you rank yourself a 3-4, on a scale of 10 in technical abilility, do yourself a favor and pay a shop to do the job. If the bushings are removed or pressed back in wrong (not square), the holes in the control arm will be strectched and you take the chance of the bushings not being seated tight. You can remove the bushings with a hammer and chisel (wedged against the bushing) and drive the bushing out. Primative, crude, and a royal pain in the arse.......but do-able if you insist on trying. A bushing driver that fits the outer diameter of the bushing, while allowing for clearance of the protruding threads on the bar is a must. You can always fashion something out of black pipe of the right diameter. But again, a royal pain in the arse. Take note of this.............. 1) it is crucial that the bushings are driven out and end squarly. 2) the bar **MUST** be located at the correct angle when the nuts are tightened against the bushings. (the bushings will fail prematurely if forced into a bind, due to a twisting action, if the bar is not at the correct angle for remounting the controll arm) 3) the coil springs will take your freaking head off if they come flying out because you didn't use a spring compressor of some sort. 4) you would look real funny without a head.
The price you were quoted seems fair and reasonable. So weigh your options and tool costs before making a decision. Factor in the cut hands and bruised knuckles that you WILL get. Ask yourself if it's worth the money saved for the warranty on the labor. Consider what your personal finances can handle, and what your free time is worth to you. Then make your decision.
Use Moog parts....don't even consider TRW or Precision brand names......Moog and Dana are top of the line. TRW and Precision will very likely need to be replaced well before the second year of service.
An experienced front-end technician can aptly overhaul upper and lower controll arm bushings on a GM, have it aligned, and test driven in less than 2 hours if he wants to show off. It's an impressive thing to watch. A more conservative figure would be about 3-4 hours for a steady working tech, where as , it is likely to take you at least a full 8 hour day.....if you're not frustrated easily and your head doesn't get taken off by the coil springs.
A bit of wisdom from an old fart............... If the controll arms are not banging around, the bushings are not torn and chunks of rubber coming out, you're not doing a restoration job on the truck, and the tires are getting fairly good mileage....................leave the bushings alone and find a shop that will align the front end, and save your money for the next set of tires in 3 to 5 years.
hopefully helpfull Scrib Abel
The smartest man I ever met............. Never said a word.
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(Robert L. Wells) I have a 1977 Chevy Suburban C-10 2WD that shakes side to side and clunks/clangs when going over bumps. I took it to a local alignment shop and was quoted $487 to replace all the control arm bushings and do a two wheel alignment. I have verified some of the rubber bushing are shot visually. I am considering doing the control arm bushings myself. How hard is it to get the old bushings out/new ones in on an old vehicles like this? Would I most likely need to get then pressed out and new ones pressed in at an auto/machine shop? None of the auto stores seem to carry tool kits to do this. Without the tool kits is it just about impossible to do it myself? I'd guess I'd rate myself a 3 or 4 out of 10 on a auto mechanic scale. Any advice or experiences would be most appreciated. I would like to know opinions on the quality of NAPA/Moog/Dana Parts vs McQuay-Norris bushings. Are they worth the extra money if I'm only going to drive this couple of years or so? I am pricing parts and this is what I have from NAPA and Checker Auto. NAPA Chassis Parts One guy says these are Dana Parts and one says they are Moog?? Lower Bushing Item#: NCP2673325 K6422 Price: $ 16.59 X 4 $66.36 Upper Bushing Item#: NCP2671330 K6413 Price: $ 12.39 X 4 $49.56 Total = $115.92 Checker Auto McQuay-Norris Any comments on the quality of these parts? FB355/12312 Upper CONTRL ARM BUSHING $5.49 X 4 = $21.96 FB356/12318 LowerCONTRL ARM BUSHING $5.49 X 4 = $21.96 Total $43.92
Thanks, Bob ''' Bob, If you rank yourself a 3-4, on a scale of 10 in technical abilility, do yourself a favor and pay a shop to do the job. If the bushings are removed or pressed back in wrong (not square), the holes in the control arm will be strectched and you take the chance of the bushings not being seated tight. You can remove the bushings with a hammer and chisel (wedged against the bushing) and drive the bushing out. Primative, crude, and a royal pain in the arse.......but do-able if you insist on trying. A bushing driver that fits the outer diameter of the bushing, while allowing for clearance of the protruding threads on the bar is a must. You can always fashion something out of black pipe of the right diameter. But again, a royal pain in the arse. Take note of this.............. 1) it is crucial that the bushings are driven out and end squarly. 2) the bar **MUST** be located at the correct angle when the nuts are tightened against the bushings. (the bushings will fail prematurely if forced into a bind, due to a twisting action, if the bar is not at the correct angle for remounting the controll arm) 3) the coil springs will take your freaking head off if they come flying out because you didn't use a spring compressor of some sort. 4) you would look real funny without a head.
The price you were quoted seems fair and reasonable. So weigh your options and tool costs before making a decision. Factor in the cut hands and bruised knuckles that you WILL get. Ask yourself if it's worth the money saved for the warranty on the labor. Consider what your personal finances can handle, and what your free time is worth to you. Then make your decision.
Use Moog parts....don't even consider TRW or Precision brand names......Moog and Dana are top of the line. TRW and Precision will very likely need to be replaced well before the second year of service.
An experienced front-end technician can aptly overhaul upper and lower controll arm bushings on a GM, have it aligned, and test driven in less than 2 hours if he wants to show off. It's an impressive thing to watch. A more conservative figure would be about 3-4 hours for a steady working tech, where as , it is likely to take you at least a full 8 hour day.....if you're not frustrated easily and your head doesn't get taken off by the coil springs.
A bit of wisdom from an old fart............... If the controll arms are not banging around, the bushings are not torn and chunks of rubber coming out, you're not doing a restoration job on the truck, and the tires are getting fairly good mileage....................leave the bushings alone and find a shop that will align the front end, and save your money for the next set of tires in 3 to 5 years.
hopefully helpfull Scrib Abel
The smartest man I ever met............. Never said a word.
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