New to Chevys

Page 1 of 2  
Hi,
In 26 years of driving I've always been a Ford man with an occasional Chrysler product tossed in here and there. I recently rolled my Ford Ranger
in the middle of MO. ( http://home.comcast.net/~jgibson1 ) While looking at a Dodge dakota the other day I was about to leave when I saw a 2001 Medium Charcoal Gray Chevy K1500 Silverado LS, 4WD, automatic trans, 4.8L Vortec engine, 8000 LB towing capacity, extended cab, 4 door (the extended cab doors open), and composite box, with bed liner and nice color matched cap. For cheap.
My brother in law has a '98 K1500 with the Z1 package and only 73,000 miles. I asked him his likes and dislikes. His complaints were: DexCool causing leaks and damaging head gaskets, rough, noisy shifting in and out of 4WD, and the 5500 LB towing capacity.
Will the truck I'm looking at, being 3 years newer and with a different engine, also have these problems? Anything I should watch for besides the normal/obvious? I'm especially concerned about the Dex Cool as I'm used to the green stuff, not the orange.
Thanks Jay
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
You can use green stuff AFAIK. If you keep it fresh too, it will be allot happier. The 4.3 has intake gasket problems - period. There are updated gaskets, so if it's already had it done that's good. It may still be under warranty(just)? The 4.3L is a good engine otherwise, except in full-sized trucks. GM makes spectacular vehicles, especially trucks, but this isn't a good combination. Buy one with either a 305 or a 350 (there was like 10HP difference at that point). Or if it's got the "new engines" (I don't think so) the 4.8L or the 5.3L are good choices. Not much difference between any of those four sizes, they all haul just fine. Also, just DON'T get a push-button 4x4 system. They work exactly as they are designed, which is to look pretty and put a "4x4" sticker on the side of the truck. Get one with a floor shifter.
GMC Gremlin
"Jay" <jgibson1 AT COM CAST . NOT> wrote in message

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Inline....................

NO! Not unless he gets ALL of the old Dex out. And I mean ALL. This means draining the radiator via the petcock AND pulling the block drains, then filling with water, and repeating this cycle till it comes out clear. Then the water can be drained and the green stuff put back in.

It's the 4.8L.

Not available in 2001. Just 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0

Nothing wrong with them. Just a matter of personal taste.
Doc
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

So yes, you CAN USE IT. That's all I was saying.

Duh. Now I feel like a re-re....

Hmm, what year did that start? Because if I come to think about it my friend has a 98 with the 4.8L.

Ya, the encoder motor dies, etc. No motor if you use yer arm. IIRC the electronic T-case also uses clutch packs like an auto tranny, while the stick shift is either an all-gear or gear/chain transfer case.
GMC Gremlin
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
the water can be drained and the green stuff put back in.

You COULD use urine and diarrhea in the rad as well. Would it work? No.

And so you should..........................he he he.

Well your memory is failing dude. IIRC it was 2000 that they started the new motors. Your buddy might have a 98' with the 4.3, but the 4.8 hadn't been born yet.

Haven't heard of the encoder motor dying on these newer trucks..................the switch can puke, but $60 later and you're good to go.
Doc
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Actually, we got the new engines with the new body styles...1999 H
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Depends on which body style you got in 1999. Mine is an early (looks like a 1998) and considered a K1500 so it has the 5.7 liter motor. The late 1999 trucks (new body style) were all Silverado's and came with the new 4.8 liter and 5.3 liter motors.
Brian
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It doesn't "depend" on anything. The new engines came out in 1999 with the new body style. H
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Blah Blah Blah
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

And the 5.0 and 5.7 were no longer available the year after, which was 2000. The question was when the 5.0 and 5.7 were no longer available.
Doc

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I had a 2000 S-10 ZR2 that needed the encoder motor replaced twice durring my 3 year lease. Not a big deal since it was under warranty. I've got a 1997 S-Blazer that also has the pushbutton system. It shifts into 4-hi just fine, but it doesn't like to come back to 2-hi. I just keep pushing the button and eventually it goes. Some day, when I have some extra cash, I'll get it looked at.
So far, I'm not impressed with the pushbutton system. My K1500 has the floor shifter and that works every time.
-NW
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I'd have to disagree with you. Although some people have had a lot of problems with their 4 x 4 switch or encoders etc. my 1999 K1500 goes in and out of 4 wheel drive faster and smoother than a manual shift does. I've never had any problems with mine at all.
Brian
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Jay" <jgibson1 AT COM CAST . NOT> wrote in message

Jay,
Dex will mess the works up IF, and ONLY IF:
1) It's more than 50K miles old 2) Rad cap isn't working correct allowing air into the system 3) Rad isn't full due to #2 or empty reservoir. 4) Tap water is used to fill the rad (you must use distilled water).
That being said, if you use distilled water and change rad cap + coolant every 50K you won't have any problems. The Dex doesn't "eat the head gaskets." These trucks do not have any head gasket problems. The 98's and older Vortec's (5.0 and 5.7) did have intake manifold gasket problems, but this was a faulty gasket design and not the fault of Dex. The newer motors (4.8, 5.3 and 6.0) do not have this problem.
Yours might be a piston slapper, but Ford and Toyota have just the same issues with their newer motors as well. Do a google search and read up.
Doc

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Thanks for all the advice. I bought the truck. Picked it up with fuel guage on E and service display window saying "Low Fuel". Filled it up with 25 gallons. Still stayed on E with "Low Fuel" showing. Drove it home 92 miles away. After burning off some gas, message went off and guage went to full. Intermittant. Now with half tank, when the needle drops if I hit a bump or bounce in the seat it goes normal and "Low Fuel" indicator goes out. I suspect the sending unit. Not looking forward to dropping the tank.
More serious issue: 92 miles to my house, all expressway except the last 2 miles. Got off the expressway and the oil pressure guage dropped to zero and display said "Low Oil Pressure". Not wanting to wait to see if it was another guage malfunction I instantly pulled off the road and shut it off. Started it back up, "Low Oil Pressure" message still on, guage still at zero and top end just starting to chatter. That verified the no oil pressure. Quickly shut it off. No bearing squeal, lifter noise just starting, and zero reading made me think oil pump went. Left it there about 2 hours and called towing company. Went there to meet them and tried starting again. Started right up, guage went up to normal, warning message went out and top end noise went away. 100 more miles and no problem. Oil pump is mechanical and can't fail then work fine again, right? I doubt these are related but worth mentioning: Was about one quart overfilled with oil, and discovered I drove all that way with front diff in neutral instead of 2 wheel high. All other guages read normal. I'm baffled and don't feel I can trust it.
Summary: Oil pressure was at zero, 2 hours later was fine again. WTF?
Thanks,
Jay
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Jay" <jgibson1 AT COM CAST . NOT> wrote in message

Sorry to read about the troubles. Hope my 2004 Silverado isn't as troublesome as the MANY horror stories I've read the past few months.
Don't think I'll ever buy a GMC product again.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Ya know, the only thing you're going to READ about is the negative stuff. 90% of the posts on this ng are troubleshooting-related, and most people who take the time to actually write something down and post it on the internet have something to bitch about. So, if you're using the internet and usenet to gauge the reliability of GM products, you're only getting one side of the story.
Doc

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"Jay" <jgibson1 AT COM CAST . NOT> wrote in message

Jay,
Hopefully you got at least a 30-day warranty? Take it back and DEMAND they fix whatever the hell is wrong or demand a full refund.
WRT the fuel gauge, Chevy gauges have always been a little scitzo, but have them fix it if you have a warranty. If no warranty, give it another tankful before you go dropping the tank. Running it down that low can bugger up the sender/float and at times another refill solves the problem.
The oil pressure issue is quite odd. What is the OP when you first start it up cold (in park, at idle), and what is the OP when it's hot, at idle in park?
Doc

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

pickup screen. After the car was driven a short distance the screen would plug completely and no oil flow to the pump. After it sat awhile apparently the gunk on the pick up screen would drop off and when started would have oil pressure for a short while until it plugged again.
Brian
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

That's exactly what I was thinking, hence the questions as to OP levels prior to the problem.
Doc

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hi Doc!
That's a Ford problem, most noteable on a 2.9. But most notorious on a Ford.
Refinish King
Posting from the shop at break time. Break from breaking my ass that is.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.