noise in the front--91 s10 blazer 4wd

91 chev s10 blazer 4wd-----have really annoying fred flintstone wheel or old logging truck sort of noise in front. It is like one would have from real
big knobby tires, xept i do not have them on vehicle at this time. It sounded like a gear noise like a bad pinion bearing or something, so I replaced the front differential already--BUT that had no effect on the oise --and its not engaged as I have vacuum actuator line disconnected for now. As another test i took transfer case out of gear to test --coasted downhill with transfer case in neutral--noise still there. It relates to road speed, and is present at all roadspeed fast or slow. I rotated tires, no effect. (as mentioned before, these are NOT knobby or oversize tires) --- Could this be wheel bearing? Neither front wheel feels loose, and no knocking sound when cornering as one would expect with a bad wheel bearing. Noise disappears if vehicle goes off downslope from one of those sharp rises in the road--which would be like taking load off wheel bearing. Last time up on jack, I spun each front wheel --found that the one on right side sounds a little rough, of course this is with wheel off load. When on road load would be on it--which supposely would make it sound worse. Would like to hear if anyone else has had this noise or have had any experience with bad front wheel bearings or whatever related to strange noises in the front. --------------------------------------- Other experiences to relate: I had to replace the remote oil filter lines, they leaked like sieve. Cost 100 bucks from chevy dealer. -------- Had to do the gas tank and fuel pump routine. Pump from pep boys 40$--Carter brand, removing tank is a pain in the ass-as all the mounts were rusted--took 3 hours to do a derust and repaint of tank exterior and the mounts. had to get new mount ring from chevy dealer -it comes with new o ring. --if any o yous do this, yeah if you like punishment--be sure to clean the o ring mount well then grease it well to prevent rust and to get good seal to satisfy the picky emissions inspectors (if you have to get emissions test in your area) Fuel pump symptoms were intermittent cut-out of the fuel pump motor, you know like a flat spot in the commutator or some such thing. Usually ocurred at start up time. Tried relay first but that did not last long and was misleading. ------------- Had to replace both torsion bar mounts--both were broken--also had to level the front suspension as previous jerk owner had the torsion bars adjusted way too high causing adverse angle of front cv axles, which can wear them out prematurely and cause vibration. One boot was shot, took axle off to replace it. -------------------------- Rebuilt throttle body with kit, found some clogged passages. The spring in regulator was broken, replaced it with a substitute as i had to get car running to get to work next day--its close enough and works great---book and instructions are BS as to how to install the spring --had to drill through the spring retainer to put a pin in it to hold spring, then after mounting the diaphragm and screwing down the screws ya pulls the pin and voila! all set. No fussing with trying to mount the diaphragm with the spring pushing against it and as such working against you. --as example this is just like using pin to retain starter brushes at assembly of a starter. Use bailing wire as pin because it'll bend slightly to clear interference fit of adjuster head. Hole hurts nothing as the spring retainer is open to atmosphere anyway, put hole through both walls 180 degrees apart at location to hold spring in place. Injectors are tough to get out as the old o ring has stiffened up. I put the thing upside down between two wood blocks and tapped each injector out with hammer and a socket of correct size--just be sure to stay off of the nozzle! To install clean it thoroughly first of course and put o ring in before you put injector in, use a little grease on the injector so it'll slide over the o ring --everything has to seal or it'll leak! Be careful-- if not you'll have to buy a rebuilt or new throttle body. Mine works great--no leaks. Kit was 35 bucks at autozone--you'll need number of your throttle body, so clean the faces of it to find/see the numbers. ------ Much more but not tonight.
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(Other experiences to relate: I had to replace the remote oil filter lines, they leaked like sieve. Cost 100 bucks from chevy dealer)
AND weren't they a real bitch to get out and in?
A crimped fitting started leaking about 500 miles from home this Spring.. After first having a panic attack, I realized it wasn't a bad leak. 1500 miles later I dropped by the local Pick-n-Pull and took home a used set ($15) replaced the O-rings....no problem since
Did the fuel pump at 170K (just in case), rebuilt the front end with new 1/2 shafts at 130K
Oh yeah added rebuilt engine at 160K (piston slap)
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Yes, thanks for the feedback in regard to the oil lines. Mine were easy to put in as I did it the same weekend I had the front differential out to replace it. That thing was really difficult to get out and in. Hope your junk yard oil lines last a while. I heard from s10 forum that used ones are a bad bet, because the rubber on the inside of the hoses deteriorates. I cut mine open to look and the rubber was all flaky. By the way they are difficult to cut as they have a really tough woven wire reinforcement in the laminations. The counter guy at the chevy dealer told me that the mechanics in the chevy garage replace alot of these sets of oil lines on lazers. -byron --------------

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or old

real
disconnected for

test --coasted

to
tires,
loose,
wheel
sharp
Last
side
road
strange
Bad wheel hub assembly. They have two bearings inside them and the inner bearing is probably bad from the overloading with the bars cranked up. Not that the front hubs need much help to go bad.....
-
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Thanks Steve W. -It is getting worse this week. I plan to look in pick and pull junk yard for a usable hub if some one else has not already got it. They are over 340. $ new. -byron

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Depends on where you buy them. I picked up new ones for 175.00 ea. last year. Take a look at Rock Auto for some better pricing. http://www.rockauto.com ./
--
Steve Williams

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