--------------------------------------- Other experiences to relate: I had to replace the remote oil filter lines, they leaked like sieve. Cost
100 bucks from chevy dealer.-------- Had to do the gas tank and fuel pump routine. Pump from pep boys
40$--Carter brand, removing tank is a pain in the ass-as all the mounts were rusted--took 3 hours to do a derust and repaint of tank exterior and the mounts. had to get new mount ring from chevy dealer -it comes with new o ring. --if any o yous do this, yeah if you like punishment--be sure to clean the o ring mount well then grease it well to prevent rust and to get good seal to satisfy the picky emissions inspectors (if you have to get emissions test in your area) Fuel pump symptoms were intermittent cut-out of the fuel pump motor, you know like a flat spot in the commutator or some such thing. Usually ocurred at start up time. Tried relay first but that did not last long and was misleading.------------- Had to replace both torsion bar mounts--both were broken--also had to level the front suspension as previous jerk owner had the torsion bars adjusted way too high causing adverse angle of front cv axles, which can wear them out prematurely and cause vibration. One boot was shot, took axle off to replace it.
-------------------------- Rebuilt throttle body with kit, found some clogged passages. The spring in regulator was broken, replaced it with a substitute as i had to get car running to get to work next day--its close enough and works great---book and instructions are BS as to how to install the spring --had to drill through the spring retainer to put a pin in it to hold spring, then after mounting the diaphragm and screwing down the screws ya pulls the pin and voila! all set. No fussing with trying to mount the diaphragm with the spring pushing against it and as such working against you. --as example this is just like using pin to retain starter brushes at assembly of a starter. Use bailing wire as pin because it'll bend slightly to clear interference fit of adjuster head. Hole hurts nothing as the spring retainer is open to atmosphere anyway, put hole through both walls 180 degrees apart at location to hold spring in place. Injectors are tough to get out as the old o ring has stiffened up. I put the thing upside down between two wood blocks and tapped each injector out with hammer and a socket of correct size--just be sure to stay off of the nozzle! To install clean it thoroughly first of course and put o ring in before you put injector in, use a little grease on the injector so it'll slide over the o ring --everything has to seal or it'll leak! Be careful-- if not you'll have to buy a rebuilt or new throttle body. Mine works great--no leaks. Kit was 35 bucks at autozone--you'll need number of your throttle body, so clean the faces of it to find/see the numbers.
------ Much more but not tonight.