OT: Repairing Sears Snow Blower (Tecumseh)

I have a Snowblower a friend gave me.

It's carb was gummed up and needed some cleaning. I took the carb off and cleaned out the bowl and checked the float and it works. The fuel lines are new and filter replaced. It has a new plug and the plug IS sparking.

When I push the primer it drips fuel on the ground. Is this the overflow of the bowl? when I try to start it, it will backfire and do nothing.

It has a lever that adjusts the choke. It looks like something should bolt where the flap of the choke is, like a air cleaner or something. If you go to the Sear website and look at the diagram of the motor, it does not show one.

What do I need to do to get this thing to start? Got 6 inches of snow coming this weekend. :)

Lannie

Reply to
LS
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I noticed the fuel cap says 40:1 gas & oil.

I used the gas I mixed for my weed whacker. I cannot remember the mixture. Could I have too much oil in it??

Lannie

Reply to
LS

Had almost Identical probs with a Sthil brushcutter. the shop said it was fuel overload and leaned it right down, the vibration had caused the mix screw to wind out too far. The manual said get it checked after every 10 hours use, this happened after about 80 hours during the gorse season.

works great now.

rhys

Reply to
rnf2

I don't think it has a screw in it. If I'm staring at the back of the carb, looking at the choke flap, there is a opening on the left side. It's a hole with nothign in it. Does that mean the screw is GONE?

Lannie

Reply to
Lannie

I've forwarded your query to a chap whos rebuilt a Tecumsh powered snowblower.

Hopefully he'll reply, I just found him a few minutes ago via Google. lol

rhys

"Lannie" wrote

Reply to
rnf2

True single performance tuned exhaust, high-capacity heads and high-compression pistons? Sixty over with custom porting, stiff reeds and a K&N filter?

~KJ~

Reply to
KJ

Nah,

not rebuilt as in normal operation => Massively Tim Taylorised rather rebuilt as in Not operating => normal operation

rhys

Reply to
rnf2

:-)~

~KJ~

Reply to
KJ

You're a member of the taylor cult are ya?

MORE POWER!! UGH UGH UGH !!!!!

Reply to
rnf2

I want to remove the snow, not the slab under the snow!! :)

Lannie

Reply to
LS

Why they never made oggers with clutches rather than sheer pins I'll never know... I have a dirt driveway and chew up at least 4 (usually 2 per snow storm, first 2 storms) a year AT LEAST!

~KJ~

Reply to
KJ

if they're like tucumseh mower engines, it's cuz the dealer gets $50 a pop to change sheer pins and clutches would last too long... (took me 2 sheer pins before i found out that i could buy them at OSH in a 4 pack)

Reply to
mac davis

Mine has to actually run first before I can break sheer pins. :)

Reply to
LS

See!! there is an up side to every occasion....

Dale P..........

Reply to
Dale Peterson

drill out the hole and use a Grade 5 bolt

the bigger the better

Reply to
Gary Glaenzer

i just put a k&n on my mower... now, it takes out trees and curbs without hurting the sheer pin.. *g*

Reply to
mac davis

did you use high-strength bolts to hold the exhaust on it ?

Reply to
Gary Glaenzer

Keep the shear pins in. They are there to protect the auger gearbox. Brass gears inside the auger gearbox. A fist full of shears is way cheaper and easier to do than the gearbox. Drop the shoes down on dirt, ya ain't scraping down a dirt drive with a blower.

Reply to
Repairman

what exhaust? this is a Real Man mower...

Reply to
mac davis

You have a good relationship with your Audiologist?

rhys

"mac davis" wrote

"Gary Glaenzer" wrote:

Reply to
rnf2

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