Painting questions

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If there's anyone here that's done any amount of bodywork, your advice would be much appreciated....
What I've got:
1979 GMC K-1500 shortbed, *very* rust eaten from too many Pennsylvania
winters
Replacement cab from 1978 Chevy C-10. (and new Energy suspension bushings)
What I need to do:
Take the center of the floorpan from the K cab and put it in the C cab to allow for room / shifter for my transfer case. I'm also planning on replacing at least the hood (the best one I've got had a cheerleader sittin on it way back in HS and left a dent in the middle of it), inner fenders and maybe the outer fenders if I can find a good deal on them. I'd also like to find a stepside bed to put on it, just because I like the way they look.
What kind of prep work am I going to need to do, what kind of 'etching' products can I use to prevent rust from coming back, and if not using a metallic color, can I paint the panels one at a time and then assemble them?
Thanks!
Jeremy
-- It has become appallingly obvious that our technology has exceeded our humanity. -Albert Einstein
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Painting questions Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sun, Oct 12, 2003, 2:49am (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@l-c-s-1.n-e-t (JeremyChavers) If there's anyone here that's done any amount of bodywork, your advice would be much appreciated.... What I've got: 1979 GMC K-1500 shortbed, *very* rust eaten from too many Pennsylvania winters Replacement cab from 1978 Chevy C-10. (and new Energy suspension bushings) What I need to do: Take the center of the floorpan from the K cab and put it in the C cab to allow for room / shifter for my transfer case. I'm also planning on replacing at least the hood (the best one I've got had a cheerleader sittin on it way back in HS and left a dent in the middle of it), inner fenders and maybe the outer fenders if I can find a good deal on them. I'd also like to find a stepside bed to put on it, just because I like the way they look. What kind of prep work am I going to need to do, what kind of 'etching' products can I use to prevent rust from coming back, and if not using a metallic color, can I paint the panels one at a time and then assemble them? Thanks! Jeremy
--
It has become appallingly obvious that our technology has exceeded our
humanity.
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From what I've heard, Rust, is embedded in the pores of the metal. Even if you clean up the area there is still sub surface rust that you cant see. Long term it may be a problem. Best advice is to cut, and/or replace. Might be a good time to learn Tin knocking and welding.
Paint mixing is prone to shade variances. It would be better to paint all body parts at once.
Keep all body parts to be painted dry. Store them in a dry place. Moisture trapped under the paint will bite you later on.
Cheers

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===== ===== Painting questions Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sun, Oct 12, 2003, 2:49am (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@l-c-s-1.n-e-t (JeremyChavers)
If there's anyone here that's done any amount of bodywork, your advice would be much appreciated....
What I've got: 1979 GMC K-1500 shortbed, *very* rust eaten from too many Pennsylvania winters Replacement cab from 1978 Chevy C-10. (and new Energy suspension bushings)
What I need to do:
Take the center of the floorpan from the K cab and put it in the C cab to allow for room / shifter for my transfer case.
I'm also planning on replacing at least the hood....... ,
inner fenders
and maybe the outer fenders if I can find a good deal on them.
I'd also like to find a stepside bed to put on it, just because I like the way they look.
What kind of prep work am I going to need to do? What kind of 'etching' products can I use to prevent rust from coming back,......
and if not using a metallic color, can I paint the panels one at a time and then assemble them?
Thanks! Jeremy
--
It has become appallingly obvious that our technology has exceeded our
humanity.
  Click to see the full signature.
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(Jeremy Chavers)
If there's anyone here that's done any amount of bodywork, your advice would be much appreciated....
What I've got: 1979 GMC K-1500 shortbed, *very* rust eaten from too many Pennsylvania winters Replacement cab from 1978 Chevy C-10. (and new Energy suspension bushings)
What I need to do:
Take the center of the floorpan from the K cab and put it in the C cab to allow for room / shifter for my transfer case.
I'm also planning on replacing at least the hood....... ,
inner fenders
and maybe the outer fenders if I can find a good deal on them.
I'd also like to find a stepside bed to put on it, just because I like the way they look.
What kind of prep work am I going to need to do?
What kind of 'etching' products can I use to prevent rust from coming back,......
and if not using a metallic color, can I paint the panels one at a time and then assemble them?
Thanks! Jeremy -- It has become appallingly obvious that our technology has exceeded our humanity. -Albert Einstein ================Jeremy, How much money you got to spend on this thing?
---- Well since I'm not going to be paying a bodyman (again, not paying someone to do something that I can), it's going to be the cost of panels and materials. However much that needs to be. I have a good source (30% off cost) for the panels, and can probably work a deal with the paint supply folks. I just want to know how to do this right, so that I don't have to do it again.
Jeremy
I don't want to waste my time on some long winded reply, unless you're serious about doing the work...or......if I'm allowed to poke fun at you.
marsh monster (3rd generation bodyman) (master fool)
~:~experience is a hard school to learn in...... but fools will learn in no other-Albert Einsein~:~
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========= ========= Jeremy, How much money you got to spend on this thing?
I don't want to waste my time on some long winded reply, unless you're serious about doing the work...or......if I'm allowed to poke fun at you.
marsh monster (3rd generation bodyman) ======== ========
---- Well since I'm not going to be paying a bodyman (again, not paying someone to do something that I can), it's going to be the cost of panels and materials. However much that needs to be. I have a good source (30% off cost) for the panels, and can probably work a deal with the paint supply folks. I just want to know how to do this right, so that I don't have to do it again.
Jeremy ========= ========= marsh monster....ever the helpfull friend.... hands Jeremy a "Pre-Production Questionaire" ............
Jeremy, so you're giving me permission to poke fun at you along the way?????
okee dokee....
FIRST THINGS FIRST......
Do you have a place to let this thing sit while you have it torn apart?
Do you have an area you can store the disassembled parts in? Not a plastic tarp chunked over them in the yard, or a lean-to slapped togeather. We're talking weather protected area here.
Can you afford to do without the truck untill the job is done? Time is your friend.
Are you after a "show class" truck? (be very,very, explicit about the finish you are after here)
What is the top dollar amount you are willing to spend on the body? Don't lie jest to impress us. We don't really care if yer broke or not. (This is not a trick question, or one to leave a hole for later fun poke'n.)
Do you want to do it all yerself...except for the final finish coat?
Honest answers to the above questions will provide for a more expediant repair, and more enjoyable experience during the refinish process.
marsh monster (scrib abell) ~:~will poke jeremy if he runs out of funds before this thing is done...leaving marsh to finish another one for free~:~
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================Jeremy, How much money you got to spend on this thing?
I don't want to waste my time on some long winded reply, unless you're serious about doing the work...or......if I'm allowed to poke fun at you.
marsh monster (3rd generation bodyman) ============== ---- Well since I'm not going to be paying a bodyman (again, not paying someone to do something that I can), it's going to be the cost of panels and materials. However much that needs to be. I have a good source (30% off cost) for the panels, and can probably work a deal with the paint supply folks. I just want to know how to do this right, so that I don't have to do it again.
Jeremy ================marsh monster....ever the helpfull friend.... hands Jeremy a "Pre-Production Questionaire" ............
Jeremy, so you're giving me permission to poke fun at you along the way?????
okee dokee....
FIRST THINGS FIRST......
Do you have a place to let this thing sit while you have it torn apart?
---- Yes. Fenced in back yard with large paved slab (1/2 basketball court) and a gate large enough to get the whole truck in through.
Do you have an area you can store the disassembled parts in? Not a plastic tarp chunked over them in the yard, or a lean-to slapped togeather. We're talking weather protected area here.
---- Yes. Attached 1 car garage with workshop, ducted for heat and cold air.
Can you afford to do without the truck untill the job is done? Time is your friend.
---- Yes. The truck isn't my primary transportation.
Are you after a "show class" truck? (be very,very, explicit about the finish you are after here)
---- No. I'm after something that looks good, near and far, and will last for quite some time (with the proper care). It doesn't have to be 'perfect', after all, it's a '79 4x4 that I'm gonna wanna take off road still.
What is the top dollar amount you are willing to spend on the body? Don't lie jest to impress us. We don't really care if yer broke or not. (This is not a trick question, or one to leave a hole for later fun poke'n.)
---- Define "on the body". I've got several new replacement panels lined up (hood, inner fenders and fenders), and I already know and am fine with the cost of these. Are you suggesting that I'm going to be running into unexpected panels that will need to be replaced? If so, what? The new cab has already been inspected, and will need weatherstripping and paint - the rest of it is in very good shape, even the rocker panels.
Do you want to do it all yerself...except for the final finish coat?
---- I'm planning on doing it *all* myself - even the finish coat. Again, why pay someone else for something that I have the ability and desire to do?
Honest answers to the above questions will provide for a more expediant repair, and more enjoyable experience during the refinish process.
marsh monster (scrib abell) ~:~will poke jeremy if he runs out of funds before this thing is done...leaving marsh to finish another one for free~:~
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== ==
== == Re: Painting questions..and Owners comittment...... ========= ========= Jeremy, How much money you got to spend on this thing?
I don't want to waste my time on some long winded reply, unless you're serious about doing the work...or......if I'm allowed to poke fun at you.
marsh monster (3rd generation bodyman) ======== ======== ---- Well since I'm not going to be paying a bodyman (again, not paying someone to do something that I can), it's going to be the cost of panels and materials. However much that needs to be. I have a good source (30% off cost) for the panels, and can probably work a deal with the paint supply folks. I just want to know how to do this right, so that I don't have to do it again.
Jeremy ========= ========= marsh monster....ever the helpfull friend.... hands Jeremy a "Pre-Production Questionaire" ........... Jeremy, so you're giving me permission to poke fun at you along the way?????
okee dokee....
FIRST THINGS FIRST......
quest. 1.... Do you have a place to let this thing sit while you have it torn apart? ---- Yes. Fenced in back yard with large paved slab (1/2 basketball court) and a gate large enough to get the whole truck in through.
quest. 2.... Do you have an area you can store the disassembled parts in? Not a plastic tarp chunked over them in the yard, or a lean-to slapped togeather. We're talking weather protected area here.
---- Yes. Attached 1 car garage with workshop, ducted for heat and cold air.
quest. 3..... Can you afford to do without the truck untill the job is done? Time is your friend.
---- Yes. The truck isn't my primary transportation.
quest. 4...... Are you after a "show class" truck? (be very,very, explicit about the finish you are after here)
---- No. I'm after something that looks good, near and far, and will last for quite some time (with the proper care). It doesn't have to be 'perfect', after all, it's a '79 4x4 that I'm gonna wanna take off road still.
quest. 5...... What is the top dollar amount you are willing to spend on the body? Don't lie jest to impress us. We don't really care if yer broke or not. (This is not a trick question, or one to leave a hole for later fun poke'n.)
---- Define "on the body". I've got several new replacement panels lined up (hood, inner fenders and fenders), and I already know and am fine with the cost of these. Are you suggesting that I'm going to be running into unexpected panels that will need to be replaced? If so, what? The new cab has already been inspected, and will need weatherstripping and paint - the rest of it is in very good shape, even the rocker panels.
quest. 6..... Do you want to do it all yerself...except for the final finish coat?
---- I'm planning on doing it *all* myself - even the finish coat. Again, why pay someone else for something that I have the ability and desire to do?
Honest answers to the above questions will provide for a more expediant repair, and more enjoyable experience during the refinish process.
marsh monster ~:~will poke jeremy if he runs out of funds before this thing is done...leaving marsh to finish another one for free~:~ === ===
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==
== Re: Painting questions..and Owners comittment...... ================Jeremy, How much money you got to spend on this thing?
I don't want to waste my time on some long winded reply, unless you're serious about doing the work...or......if I'm allowed to poke fun at you.
marsh monster (3rd generation bodyman) ==============---- Well since I'm not going to be paying a bodyman (again, not paying someone to do something that I can), it's going to be the cost of panels and materials. However much that needs to be. I have a good source (30% off cost) for the panels, and can probably work a deal with the paint supply folks. I just want to know how to do this right, so that I don't have to do it again.
Jeremy ================marsh monster....ever the helpfull friend.... hands Jeremy a "Pre-Production Questionaire" ........... Jeremy, so you're giving me permission to poke fun at you along the way?????
okee dokee....
FIRST THINGS FIRST......
quest. 1.... Do you have a place to let this thing sit while you have it torn apart?
---- Yes. Fenced in back yard with large paved slab (1/2 basketball court) and a gate large enough to get the whole truck in through.
quest. 2.... Do you have an area you can store the disassembled parts in? Not a plastic tarp chunked over them in the yard, or a lean-to slapped togeather. We're talking weather protected area here.
---- Yes. Attached 1 car garage with workshop, ducted for heat and cold air.
quest. 3..... Can you afford to do without the truck untill the job is done? Time is your friend.
---- Yes. The truck isn't my primary transportation.
quest. 4...... Are you after a "show class" truck? (be very,very, explicit about the finish you are after here)
---- No. I'm after something that looks good, near and far, and will last for quite some time (with the proper care). It doesn't have to be 'perfect', after all, it's a '79 4x4 that I'm gonna wanna take off road still.
quest. 5...... What is the top dollar amount you are willing to spend on the body? Don't lie jest to impress us. We don't really care if yer broke or not. (This is not a trick question, or one to leave a hole for later fun poke'n.)
---- Define "on the body". I've got several new replacement panels lined up (hood, inner fenders and fenders), and I already know and am fine with the cost of these. Are you suggesting that I'm going to be running into unexpected panels that will need to be replaced? If so, what? The new cab has already been inspected, and will need weatherstripping and paint - the rest of it is in very good shape, even the rocker panels.
quest. 6..... Do you want to do it all yerself...except for the final finish coat?
---- I'm planning on doing it *all* myself - even the finish coat. Again, why pay someone else for something that I have the ability and desire to do?
Honest answers to the above questions will provide for a more expediant repair, and more enjoyable experience during the refinish process.
marsh monster ~:~will poke jeremy if he runs out of funds before this thing is done...leaving marsh to finish another one for free~:~ ====
Keyboard broken Marsh? :-)
As for dedication to this truck, I bought it in '98, had to tow it from Baltimore to Pittsburgh after the 305 seized on me, have since put in 2 more engines (400 that spun rod, then 350 that's in it now), 2 transmissions (2nd was due to defective Accurate rebuilt unit), and one front axle. Any questions?
Jeremy
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oops wrong button.....
marsh monster ~takes another hit off the pipe....takes a sip of Crown...and tries to locate the keyboard~
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========= ========= Jeremy, How much money you got to spend on this thing?
I don't want to waste my time on some long winded reply, unless you're serious about doing the work...or......if I'm allowed to poke fun at you.
marsh monster ======== ======== ---- Well since I'm not going to be paying a bodyman (again, not paying someone to do something that I can), it's going to be the cost of panels and materials. However much that needs to be. I have a good source (30% off cost) for the panels, and can probably work a deal with the paint supply folks. I just want to know how to do this right, so that I don't have to do it again.
Jeremy ========= ========= marsh monster....ever the helpfull friend.... hands Jeremy a "Pre-Production Questionaire" ........... Jeremy,
Do you have a place to let this thing sit while you have it torn apart? ---- Yes. Fenced in back yard with large paved slab (1/2 basketball court) and a gate large enough to get the whole truck in through.
Do you have an area you can store the disassembled parts in? Not a plastic tarp chunked over them in the yard, or a lean-to slapped togeather. We're talking weather protected area here. ---- Yes. Attached 1 car garage with workshop, ducted for heat and cold air.
Can you afford to do without the truck untill the job is done? Time is your friend. ---- Yes. The truck isn't my primary transportation.
Are you after a "show class" truck? (be very,very, explicit about the finish you are after here) ---- No. I'm after something that looks good, near and far, and will last for quite some time (with the proper care). It doesn't have to be 'perfect', after all, it's a '79 4x4 that I'm gonna wanna take off road still.
What is the top dollar amount you are willing to spend on the body? Don't lie jest to impress us. We don't really care if yer broke or not. (This is not a trick question, or one to leave a hole for later fun poke'n.) ---- Define "on the body". I've got several new replacement panels lined up (hood, inner fenders and fenders), and I already know and am fine with the cost of these. Are you suggesting that I'm going to be running into unexpected panels that will need to be replaced? If so, what? The new cab has already been inspected, and will need weatherstripping and paint - the rest of it is in very good shape, even the rocker panels.
---- I'm planning on doing it *all* myself - even the finish coat. Again, why pay someone else for something that I have the ability and desire to do? ==== ==== Jeremy, yer balls are big........yer talent is yet to be proven.
Tools you will need.... (pneumatic....unless otherwise specified)
80 gallon, 2 phase air compressor water seperator (for air compressor) air dryer (for air supply line) grinder orbital disc sander (aka....da sander) in line sander (aka....long board sander) 8 inch disc sander (aka....bondo hog) sand blaster (portable works good) 8 inch electric disc grinder 4 inch disc grinder die grinder paint gun (for primer coats) paint gun (for sealer coats) paint gun (for color coats) paint gun (for clear coats) buffer
misc tools.... (other than wrenches,sockets,screwdrivers)
acetelene torches (no.1 and no.2 brazing tips) cutting head for torch mig welder (optional...but preferable) plasma cutter (again...optional) scraper...razor blade type box of razor blades bondo rasp (aka...tater grater) pocket knife ( I'm fond of "old timers") 2 inch putty knife tape measure cheap 4 inch paint brush cheap 2 inch paint brush 2.5 gallon bug sprayer..pump up type 2 guitar strings ( high E..aka..no.1) 1 book of matches a cheap pack of sewing needles (man....I hope we don't need those..) radio ...with good speakers beer cooler (for bondo dust)
Materials list.... (there WILL BE more later)
25 sheets...36 or 40 grit "long board" sandpaper 25 sheets...80 grit "long board" sandpaper 20 sheets...180 grit "long board" sandpaper 25 sheets....80 grit 4 inch disc sandpaper 35 sheets....180 grit 4 inch disc sandpaper 50 sheets....240 grit 4 inch disc sandpaper 5 sheets.....40 grit 8 inch disc sandpaper 5 sheets.....80 grit 8 inch disc sandpaper 10 sheets....24 grit 4 inch grinder paper 5 sheets.....24 grit 8 inch grinder paper 20 sheets...220 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 20 sheets...320 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 10 sheets...400 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 10 sheets...1200 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 10 sheets....2000 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 1 inch wire brush for die grinder 4 inch wire brush for grinder buffing compound polishing compound 1 gallon of Ospho 1 gallon Red Oxide lacquer primer 5 gallons lacquer thinner 2 gallons epoxy primer (tinted would be nice) 1 tube of glazing putty (aka...claw glaze) 40 paint strainers 40 paint wooden paint stirers 1 gallon of Bondo (that should get us started) 2 quarts of Dynaglass (unless you lied about the rust..then make it a gallon) fiberglass matting fiberglass "hair" 2 quarts fiberglass resin...with hardener 2...6 inch bondo spreaders 4...4 inch bondo spreaders (I expect you will mess one or two of em up) 6 rolls of 3/4 inch masking tape (3M...3M...3M....3M...3M...you use what you want....me...i'd suggest THREE M..but it's totally up to you) 4 bags of ice 2 CASES IF BEER.....this is not up fer discussion.
all the above should be 3M on the sandpaper and the tape ...trust me on that, and Budwieser is fine with me.
And jest so's there ain't no suprises at the end.....
Budweiser will wash down primer dust, bondo dust, and fiberglass dust really well........but Crown Royal is the only thing I have ever come across to get the taste of paint out yer mouth... so keep that in mind when I give you the paint list
The above will get you to the paint stage.... sort of....
with that in mind.....
Get the truck to the back yard....and strip it down to the frame......everything comes off.
Build two support stands out of 4x4.... to set the 1979 and 1978 cabs on top of. You'll want them at least waist high at the rocker panel when the cabs are sitting on them. You could build a "roll-over" stand out of 1 inch box steel or aluminum. But that would add about $400 to the ticket.....and you'de need a welder and a torch.....so we will just use 4x4 lumber and save that money fer a high price paint gun.
Take yer time.....don't rush....I'll be here..when yer done.
Let me know when yer ready fer the next step, and we'll work on that tranny tunnel problem.
One more thing......consider painting this thing black.......we'll add some charcoal and pewter scallops to it .....and man....will you have an eye catcher.
Black......yeah that's the color we gonna use.
Marsh Monster ~:~hopes jeremy has a 2-phase air compressor...cause we gonna burn up that little ole Sears job he's got when we plug in the long-board sander~:~
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Jeremy, yer balls are big........yer talent is yet to be proven.
Tools you will need.... (pneumatic....unless otherwise specified)
80 gallon, 2 phase air compressor ---- 26 gallon single pumper, but for the hardcore body work, can borrow a 2 stage, if really needed - mine is still under warranty. I burn it up, I get a new one. :-) water seperator (for air compressor) ---- got it air dryer (for air supply line) ---- got it grinder ---- 4" pnuematic Ingersol Rand orbital disc sander (aka....da sander) ---- got it in line sander (aka....long board sander) ---- It's with the 2 stage compressor 8 inch disc sander (aka....bondo hog) ---- Nope. sand blaster (portable works good) ---- Can buy cheaply or borrow 8 inch electric disc grinder ---- ditto as sand blaster 4 inch disc grinder ---- wasn't this already listed? die grinder ---- angle (have) or straight (don't)? paint gun (for primer coats) paint gun (for sealer coats) paint gun (for color coats) paint gun (for clear coats) ---- Have one HVLP gravity feed, can borrow Devilbiss siphon if needed. Will purchase additional lacquer thinner for cleaning. buffer ---- will worry about that when needed (can borrow)
misc tools.... (other than wrenches,sockets,screwdrivers)
acetelene torches (no.1 and no.2 brazing tips) ---- can borrow cutting head for torch ---- can borrow mig welder (optional...but preferable) ---- Have (and yes, it's gas shield) plasma cutter (again...optional) ---- don't have. scraper...razor blade type ---- have box of razor blades ---- have bondo rasp (aka...tater grater) ---- Can get when needed pocket knife ( I'm fond of "old timers") ---- have 2 inch putty knife ---- cheap tape measure ---- have cheap 4 inch paint brush cheap 2 inch paint brush 2.5 gallon bug sprayer..pump up type ---- What's this for? 2 guitar strings ( high E..aka..no.1) ---- My glass is held in with 2 piece rubber seals - won't be needing this. 1 book of matches a cheap pack of sewing needles (man....I hope we don't need those..) ---- huh? radio ...with good speakers ---- I'll just listen to the voices in my head. beer cooler (for bondo dust) ---- Don't plan on generating that much dust - I'm going to be replacing anything that's questionable.
Materials list.... (there WILL BE more later)
25 sheets...36 or 40 grit "long board" sandpaper 25 sheets...80 grit "long board" sandpaper 20 sheets...180 grit "long board" sandpaper 25 sheets....80 grit 4 inch disc sandpaper 35 sheets....180 grit 4 inch disc sandpaper 50 sheets....240 grit 4 inch disc sandpaper 5 sheets.....40 grit 8 inch disc sandpaper 5 sheets.....80 grit 8 inch disc sandpaper 10 sheets....24 grit 4 inch grinder paper 5 sheets.....24 grit 8 inch grinder paper 20 sheets...220 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 20 sheets...320 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 10 sheets...400 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 10 sheets...1200 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 10 sheets....2000 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 1 inch wire brush for die grinder 4 inch wire brush for grinder ---- Will get as needed. (I run a commercial sales dept - I'll just call one of my body shop accounts for it.) buffing compound polishing compound 1 gallon of Ospho ---- Any brand recommendation? 1 gallon Red Oxide lacquer primer ---- Any brand recommendation? 5 gallons lacquer thinner ---- Had planned on getting much more than that. 2 gallons epoxy primer (tinted would be nice) ---- Any brand recommendation? 1 tube of glazing putty (aka...claw glaze) ---- have 40 paint strainers 40 paint wooden paint stirers ---- The guys at the paint store like to give those away 1 gallon of Bondo (that should get us started) ---- Not planning on bondo'ing this one. It's gonna be done right. 2 quarts of Dynaglass (unless you lied about the rust..then make it a gallon) ---- Again, replacing / repairing (with metal) panels that are rusted fiberglass matting fiberglass "hair" 2 quarts fiberglass resin...with hardener 2...6 inch bondo spreaders 4...4 inch bondo spreaders (I expect you will mess one or two of em up) 6 rolls of 3/4 inch masking tape (3M...3M...3M....3M...3M...you use what you want....me...i'd suggest THREE M..but it's totally up to you) ---- again, body shop hookup 4 bags of ice ---- Have a fridge in the shop outside to keep the beer in. 2 CASES IF BEER.....this is not up fer discussion.
all the above should be 3M on the sandpaper and the tape ...trust me on that, and Budwieser is fine with me. ---- I drink MGD. Sorry.
And jest so's there ain't no suprises at the end.....
Budweiser will wash down primer dust, bondo dust, and fiberglass dust really well........but Crown Royal is the only thing I have ever come across to get the taste of paint out yer mouth... so keep that in mind when I give you the paint list
The above will get you to the paint stage.... sort of....
with that in mind.....
Get the truck to the back yard....and strip it down to the frame......everything comes off.
Build two support stands out of 4x4.... to set the 1979 and 1978 cabs on top of. You'll want them at least waist high at the rocker panel when the cabs are sitting on them. You could build a "roll-over" stand out of 1 inch box steel or aluminum. But that would add about $400 to the ticket.....and you'de need a welder and a torch.....so we will just use 4x4 lumber and save that money fer a high price paint gun.
Take yer time.....don't rush....I'll be here..when yer done.
Let me know when yer ready fer the next step, and we'll work on that tranny tunnel problem.
---- already working on it. If needbe, I'll reuse the one from the '79 cab, but this being Texas, I'm sure I can find a rolled 4x4 or stick truck somewhere.
One more thing......consider painting this thing black.......we'll add some charcoal and pewter scallops to it .....and man....will you have an eye catcher.
---- Haven't decided on color yet. Black is an option, but again, this being Texas, I don't want something I can fry eggs on the seat of in the middle of summer.
Black......yeah that's the color we gonna use.
Marsh Monster ~:~hopes jeremy has a 2-phase air compressor...cause we gonna burn up that little ole Sears job he's got when we plug in the long-board sander~:~
Jeremy
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. Jeremy, what's yer plan of attack on this thing?
How are YOU .....wanting to go about it?
What kinda of stages?
I'm taking it......that you've already started the process in some form. Sounds like your going to tackle the 78 Cab first.
How can I help?
marshmonster ~:~slugs down the MGD and looks toward the fridge........I've worked cheaper..i recon~:~
=========== =========== . snipped-for-privacy@l-c-s-1.n-e-t (JeremyChavers) packed the fridge with MGD beer....and and answered Marsh when he told him......
Let me know when yer ready fer the next step, and we'll work on that tranny tunnel problem.
jeremy replied.... ---- already working on it. If needbe, I'll reuse the one from the '79 cab, but this being Texas, I'm sure I can find a rolled 4x4 or stick truck somewhere. ================ ================ (marshmonster gave Jeremy a shopping list)
-------answers and comments behind dashes were provided by -------Jeremy
[[comments in brackets provided by Marsh]] ~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~
Jeremy, yer balls are big........yer talent is yet to be proven.
Tools you will need.... (pneumatic....unless otherwise specified)
80 gallon, 2 phase air compressor ---- 26 gallon single pumper, but for the hardcore body work, can borrow a 2 stage, if really needed - mine is still under warranty. I burn it up, I get a new one. :-)
water seperator (for air compressor) ---- got it
air dryer (for air supply line) ---- got it
grinder ---- 4" pnuematic Ingersol Rand
orbital disc sander (aka....da sander) ---- got it
in line sander (aka....long board sander) ---- It's with the 2 stage compressor
8 inch disc sander (aka....bondo hog) ---- Nope. [[bummer....we'll make do without it]]
sand blaster (portable works good) ---- Can buy cheaply or borrow
8 inch electric disc grinder ---- ditto as sand blaster
4 inch disc grinder ---- wasn't this already listed?
die grinder ---- angle (have) or straight (don't)?
paint gun (for primer coats)
paint gun (for sealer coats)
paint gun (for color coats)
paint gun (for clear coats) ---- Have one HVLP gravity feed, can borrow Devilbiss siphon if needed. Will purchase additional lacquer thinner for cleaning.
[[ just make sure you clean it really well.... i don't like using the same gun. A little snot in some primer can be fixed easy. A little snot in a base coat can't ]]
buffer ---- will worry about that when needed (can borrow)
misc tools.... (other than wrenches,sockets,screwdrivers)
acetelene torches (no.1 and no.2 brazing tips) ---- can borrow
cutting head for torch ---- can borrow
mig welder (optional...but preferable) ---- Have (and yes, it's gas shield)
plasma cutter (again...optional) ---- don't have.
scraper...razor blade type ---- have
box of razor blades ---- have
bondo rasp (aka...tater grater) ---- Can get when needed
pocket knife ( I'm fond of "old timers") ---- have
2 inch putty knife ---- cheap
tape measure ---- have
cheap 4 inch paint brush
cheap 2 inch paint brush
2.5 gallon bug sprayer..pump up type ---- What's this for? [[ spraying the Ospho....works like a charm]]
2 guitar strings ( high E..aka..no.1) ---- My glass is held in with 2 piece rubber seals - won't be needing this.
1 book of matches
a cheap pack of sewing needles (man....I hope we don't need those..) ---- huh? [ for when you smash yer booger fanger.... heat it up red hot....and stick it through the fanger nail to get the blood out....works great and....."~~it only hurts fer a little while~" ]
radio ...with good speakers ---- I'll just listen to the voices in my head.
beer cooler (for bondo dust) ---- Don't plan on generating that much dust - I'm going to be replacing anything that's questionable.
[ you never done nutt'n like this before.... have you?? ]
Materials list.... (there WILL BE more later)
25 sheets...36 or 40 grit "long board" sandpaper 25 sheets...80 grit "long board" sandpaper 20 sheets...180 grit "long board" sandpaper 25 sheets....80 grit 4 inch disc sandpaper 35 sheets....180 grit 4 inch disc sandpaper 50 sheets....240 grit 4 inch disc sandpaper 5 sheets.....40 grit 8 inch disc sandpaper 5 sheets.....80 grit 8 inch disc sandpaper 10 sheets....24 grit 4 inch grinder paper 5 sheets.....24 grit 8 inch grinder paper 20 sheets...220 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 20 sheets...320 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 10 sheets...400 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 10 sheets...1200 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 10 sheets....2000 grit 'wet or dry' sandpaper 1 inch wire brush for die grinder 4 inch wire brush for grinder ---- Will get as needed. (I run a commercial sales dept - I'll just call one of my body shop accounts for it.)
buffing compound
polishing compound
1 gallon of Ospho ---- Any brand recommendation? [ Ospho works well......<g>..... ]
1 gallon Red Oxide lacquer primer ---- Any brand recommendation? [ I'm kinda fond of Dupont ]
5 gallons lacquer thinner ---- Had planned on getting much more than that.
2 gallons epoxy primer (tinted would be nice) ---- Any brand recommendation? [ I'm kinda of fond of PPG ]
1 tube of glazing putty (aka...claw glaze) ---- have
40 paint strainers 40 paint wooden paint stirers ---- The guys at the paint store like to give those away
1 gallon of Bondo (that should get us started) ---- Not planning on bondo'ing this one. It's gonna be done right. [ then you better get the Bondo ]
2 quarts of Dynaglass (unless you lied about the rust..then make it a gallon) ---- Again, replacing / repairing (with metal) panels that are rusted
[let me ask you something.....what you planning on using fer filler....LEAD!!! ???.....or a brazing rod...or that claw glaze...rotflmao...<g> ] fiberglass matting
fiberglass "hair"
2 quarts fiberglass resin...with hardener
2...6 inch bondo spreaders 4...4 inch bondo spreaders (I expect you will mess one or two of em up)
6 rolls of 3/4 inch masking tape (3M...3M...3M....3M...3M...you use what you want....me...i'd suggest THREE M..but it's totally up to you) ---- again, body shop hookup
4 bags of ice ---- Have a fridge in the shop outside to keep the beer in.
2 CASES IF BEER.....this is not up fer discussion.
all the above should be 3M on the sandpaper and the tape ...trust me on that, and Budwieser is fine with me. ---- I drink MGD. Sorry. [ beggers cain't be choosers ...i recon .... but i'm gonna draw the line at the Crown Royal ]
And jest so's there ain't no suprises at the end..... Budweiser will wash down primer dust, bondo dust, and fiberglass dust really well........but Crown Royal is the only thing I have ever come across to get the taste of paint out yer mouth... so keep that in mind when I give you the paint list
The above will get you to the paint stage.... sort of....
with that in mind..... Get the truck to the back yard....and strip it down to the frame......everything comes off.
Build two support stands out of 4x4.... to set the 1979 and 1978 cabs on top of. You'll want them at least waist high at the rocker panel when the cabs are sitting on them. You could build a "roll-over" stand out of 1 inch box steel or aluminum. But that would add about $400 to the ticket.....and you'de need a welder and a torch.....so we will just use 4x4 lumber and save that money fer a high price paint gun.
Take yer time.....don't rush....I'll be here..when yer done.
One more thing......consider painting this thing black.......we'll add some charcoal and pewter scallops to it .....and man....will you have an eye catcher. ---- Haven't decided on color yet. Black is an option, but again, this being Texas, I don't want something I can fry eggs on the seat of in the middle of summer.
[use TINT ]
Black......yeah that's the color we gonna use.
Marsh Monster ~:~hopes jeremy has a 2-phase air compressor...cause we gonna burn up that little ole Sears job he's got when we plug in the long-board sander~:~ ===== =====
this post will self destruct sometime in the next 24 hours
to make room fer a new thread on bodywork
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. Jeremy, what's yer plan of attack on this thing? How are YOU .....wanting to go about it?
What kinda of stages?
I'm taking it......that you've already started the process in some form. Sounds like your going to tackle the 78 Cab first.
How can I help?
marshmonster ~:~slugs down the MGD and looks toward the fridge........I've worked cheaper..i recon~:~
---- Get the '78 cab done first. I just need some guidance on what to do with surface rust, and once it's taken care of, what steps to laying the paint.
I'm planning on setting up the 78 cab, stripping it out (interior, trim, glass), doing whatever it needs as far as prep, then painting it seperate from the rest of the project (getting all the paint at once so that it's all the same color). Painting the new hood, fenders and inner fenders (my total cost on those 5 parts is less than $450 for new panels). After all that's ready to go, I'm gonna tackle the swapover. Rad support will be getting a new coat of black and clear, all the other parts will be the color of the truck. Once the cab's done, I'll be pullin off the bed, and it looks like I'll be reusing the fleetside, so I'm gonna hafta get some repair panels for the floor and straighten out some dings in the outside walls. Then paint it, drop it in place and post pictures of this thing all over the place. As for color, I like the yellow on the new H2's. I liked the red on my '99 cavalier. I liked the white with black stripe on my dad's '85 K5. They're all options. I'll get it figured out probably when I go to buy them. :-)
Jeremy
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===== ====== Marsh asked... "what's yer plan of attack?" === === Jeremy Chavers writes....
---- Get the '78 cab done first.
I just need some guidance on what to do with surface rust, and once it's taken care of, what steps to laying the paint.
I'm planning on setting up the 78 cab, stripping it out (interior, trim, glass), doing whatever it needs as far as prep, then painting it seperate from the rest of the project (getting all the paint at once so that it's all the same color).
Painting the new hood, fenders and inner fenders (my total cost on those 5 parts is less than $450 for new panels). After all that's ready to go, I'm gonna tackle the swapover.
Rad support will be getting a new coat of black and clear, all the other parts will be the color of the truck. Once the cab's done, I'll be pullin off the bed, and it looks like I'll be reusing the fleetside, so I'm gonna hafta get some repair panels for the floor and straighten out some dings in the outside walls. Then paint it, drop it in place and post pictures of this thing all over the place. As for color, I like the yellow on the new H2's. I liked the red on my '99 cavalier. I liked the white with black stripe on my dad's '85 K5. They're all options. I'll get it figured out probably when I go to buy them. :-) ===== =====
Jeremy, where is the rust?
And what are you calling surface rust? And....forget about the rust for now.
IMO......surface rust can be sanded down with 36 grit or 40 grit sandpaper and you will have "new" metal when you're done sanding. There will be no need for any rust treatment other than primer.
anything more IS NOT....surface rust and will need a grinder.
If the metal is pitted at all.....it is not surface rust and you need to check the other side of the panel if at all possible.
And you better buy that bondo that you said you were'nt going to use.....because I have NEVER, EVER, once ever, done a rust job without having to use BONDO...as a matter of fact, I have never done a complete off frame job without it even when there wasn't rust involved.
some impotent info......
remember that "claw glaze" you said you would use....???
it cracks like glass after awhile.....especially on a hood.
now you wouldn't want that good look'n paint job to start looking like a shattered window pane in about 3 or 4 years would you.
Glazing putty is nothing more than thick ass lacquer primer. sorta...kinda...simply put.
Bondo WILL NOT crack when applied correctly and when used in very thin coats, it is much more desired for filling in inperfections, and it cures 10 times faster than primer or glazing putty......which cuts down on time.
any whoo.......
I would suggest.. stripping the 78 cab completely and putting all the parts in the shed, then start on the tranny tunnel first. If you have the cab set up on the stand like I suggested, and have it COMPLETELY stripped of ALL parts, then the "Restoration" and "Customizing" process is going to be a cake walk. You'll be able take a water hose to the inside and the outside, without worrying about it. Quick clean up. And trust me....no matter what you think now....YOU ARE GOING TO HAVE AN ASS OF BONDO DUST!!! So if you have a completely bare metal shell to work with, the dust will have no where to hide..... and crawl out later while yer painting...which will happen if you don't strip the excess parts off.
so........strip it completely and then start on the tranny tunnel. Get the interior FINISHED to the point of painting....then start on the exterior of the cabs shell.
I have done one or two of these jobs.... and though I am long winded....I may not be explaining all the why's ....but the hows will save you a LOT of down-the-road frustration and fk-ups. I'm long winded enough on the how's...so unless neccessary...I will not be explaining the why's unless you ask.
Do yerself a favor....get one of those MGD's out the fridge and spend some time walking around the truck. Get in it...look around...go under the hood and look.... you'll be doing yerself a favor by apreciating what yer fix'n to acomplish and focusing on the STAGES of the job...instead of takleing it head-on with no clear path. Run yer hands over the panels...."see" what you are going to do to it...before you start. I have never started a major job by walking up to it with a sander. It usually sits around for at least a week before the first part is taken off. It's a carma thing.
Marsh Monster (tranny tech) ~sips from the crown royal bottle.....walks over to the fridge and puts in some budweiser...... that mgd tastes like monkey ass~
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Hey Marsh, Ever used lead? Just finished a quarter panel job on a 32 coupe and did all the seams with lead. Looks great but I'm glad it's over. I'll take bondo any day. Did lots of metal finishing and bump pick work on the hood anf front fenders. Some kids used it as a target for BB/Pellet guns. But it still has all it's steel again.
--
Steve

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. . . . Re: Explain surface rust...LONG Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sat, Oct 18, 2003, 12:25am (CDT+1) From: snipped-for-privacy@home.org (SteveW.)
Hey Marsh, Ever used lead? Just finished a quarter panel job on a 32 coupe and did all the seams with lead. Looks great but I'm glad it's over. I'll take bondo any day. Did lots of metal finishing and bump pick work on the hood anf front fenders. Some kids used it as a target for BB/Pellet guns. But it still has all it's steel again.
--
Steve
.
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Steve,
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I hate using the stuff myself. Between the cleaning, tinning, leadwork, filing, sanding and killer to keep the paint on it is just a pain. I have done lead a few times and only had paint problems on one. That was due to the owner wanting to take it for a "test" drive while still in primer, in the rain. Tried to tell him about primer being hydroscopic BUT he decided He was paying the bill and could do what he wanted. Had him sign a waiver and go on his way. Took about a year for the lead to release it's grip. He came in complaining so I showed him the waiver and the door.
--
Steve

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Marsh Monster wrote:

looks like?
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Re: Jeremy is gonna let me work on his truck with a die-grinder...... Marsh Monster wrote: <snip> One more thing......consider painting this thing black.......we'll add some charcoal and pewter scallops to it .....and man....will you have an eye catcher. Black......yeah that's the color we gonna use.
Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Thu, Oct 16, 2003, 4:14am (CDT+5) From: snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net (Tzihuac) Got any links or pictures to what this color scheme with charcoal/pewter looks like? ============== No....how bout you?
MM ~:~
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