PING "Doc"

Hey Doc,
How ya doing these days? Still working on that Elky? I've got another good one for ya... from a buddy of mine... He did a valve job on his 258
straight 6 and he must have gotten a wire crossed somewhere when he put it back together, but we can't figure it out... It won't fire while cranking... it's like it has no spark, BUT, if you let the key pop back to the on position while cranking, it'll fire up and run. If you hold the key in the start position, it'll crank till the battery goes dead, but won't fire... Any ideas?
Thanks in Advance, Websurfer
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there must be two positive wires to ignition coil! one comes to resistor (i think it is now in place) and other straight to ign.coil pos. this because in starting plugs needs more power to fire than running
i think its worth to check...
Tero
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Bwahahahahaha!
Doc
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250 straight six (not 258) right? Anyhow, pull a plug wire, plug in an extra plug or long screwdriver into the disconnected wire, ground it against the block and crank the engine. Does it have spark?
You need to physically verify spark while cranking. If no spark while cranking...............
Test the voltage of the fat red wire (+12V) leading to the coil with the key set to "ON" and then have someone move the key to the "START" position. You're looking for +12V in either instance. If the voltage drops or cuts out completely when moving key from ON to START we know where to start looking.
Doc

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Actually... it is a 258...(AMC) it's in a Jeep... guess I should've mentioned that, but the principal is the same for starting I would think.

really appreciate the info.
Thanks, Websurfer
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there is a wire from the ignition switch to bypass the ballast resistor during starting.this gives a higher voltage spark. if the wire is bad , or the ignition switch is bad, it will not start. when you let off on the key, the normal line to the ballast resistor lets it start and run. it has been years, but if you check the wiring , you will see what i mean and fix it, old john

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