Power inverter installation ASAP before Frances arrives

I'm planning on installing a Vector 750 watt/1500 watt peak power inverter into a 2002 Z71 Silverado 5.3L V8 Sorry but the generators have long been sold out since Charley. I was wondering what the
Guru's thing of he best way to install this would be? Any gotch ya's that I haven't thought about. My thoughts are that this will req 70 amps on the DC side 140 peak. Do you need to install a relay ( power distribution center) or go off of the batter directly. Any problems with disconnecting the battery?? Where is the best place to go thru the firewall. Planning on using #8 AWG wire or do I need #4. This will probably be our A/C souce for the next 2 weeks after the hurricane. Any advice would be appreciated.
Wish us luck and thanks in advance
Lee
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I dont think a 750 watt power inverter will draw more than 25 amps or so, check the specs. #4 would be way overkill on a short run (battery to cab). 8 gauge is a safe bet. Look near the battery for a place to connect it. (large cabled place maybe in the fuse/relay box under the hood). I would also consider buying a deep cycle battery for a backup also. GL
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

What kind of AC are you running with this inverter?? A 230 volt home unit will draw quite a few amps on start-up. 1500watts(your max) is only about 7.5 amps at 230 volts. I would suspect you will be at the far reaches of the inverter capacity.
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Phil wrote:

I believe he's speaking of A/C as in Alternating Current & not Air Conditioning as it appears you're talking about.
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On 1 Sep 2004 23:52:14 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

I doubt that you're going to get a lot of AC out of a 750w inverter, but I guess any that you can get helps..
We have a 600w inverter under the dash of our truck for notebook, tv/dvd player, drills, etc., but we never use it for anything like the draw that you'd put on a small generator, and mostly use it when the trucks on the road..
I ran one #8 wire from the Pos. post to the dash, using the same hole that the wiring harness came through, (won't get specific, as it's a ram), then used a 30 amp inline fuse on it... Main reason that I used an inline fuse was that the 40 amp fuse in the unit seemed pretty high and if I had THAT much draw, i'd rather blow an inline (easy to replace) fuse..
Good luck, and stay safe down there!!
Mac
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Thanks for all the help. Yes it was Alternating Current not air conditioning. Mostly for small equipment tool batteries etc... in the field. If we lose power I'm assuming 5-10 days this time easy. Even a lap top maybe. We got a house generator, (yea!!!! at Lowes today after a 4 hour wait in line. Talk about lucky or what???) with 5500 W to keep the fridge going :-)I'll try using the # 8 with the inline fuse direct from the battery. The fridge shoulb be o.k. with the 5500W assuming Starting watts = (1.7(sqr root of 3) * 20 * 120)/.9 (Power factor) =~ 4600 watts , Continous 2700 watts
Any other ideas keep putting them up.
Again thanks to all
Lee
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With generators, make sure one thing you run is a second hand clock. If you count the time it takes for the second hand to make one revolution, then you will be sure to know that you have 60 cycles. This is imperative when operating sensitive equipment like the computer stuff and battery chargers. My $0.02.
bruce Christian

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you
you
chargers.
The computer don't care if the power is 50 or 70 cycle. Try to have it 60 or more for anything with a transformer. The problem with your refrigerator is when it starts the gas engine will slow down and you will not have the rated power until it catches up. I would watch it close for a few starts and make sure the compressor starts quickly. I have a 5,000 watt Coleman and it starts my 35 year old GE refrigerator with no problem. The friggin noise is a different matter:) I bought a 50 foot super heavy extension to get the generator away from the house.
Al
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750 watt will draw over 60 amps (750/12) a short run of 4 wire (min) will handle it. I have a 2000 watt hooked up and use welding cable (00) for the 200 amp draw. I have a duel battery with an isolator and run the + cable right from the battery though a fusable link to the inverter. Run the ground from the battery also don't rely on the chassis ground. This is not an efficient way to run full time stuff since you will need to be running the vehicle to maintain the charge. Check your alternator output specs make sure it will keep up. I have a 135amp alternator to be sure.
Hope all goes well.

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