Power window switches?! Argh.

One of the power window switches to my Tahoe caught on fire (the gods alone know how), so I whipped out my Bowie knife, prised off the switch while it was still hot, and cut the wires. That was
over a year ago.
Yesterday I thought I would replace the switch with the one on the other side of the vehicle, so I cut it off and put it where the fried one was.
Now neither window works.
Must the passenger side window switch be in place before I can raise and lower the passenger side window using the driver side's switch for the passenger side window?
And why the bloody hell are automobiles made without back-up mechanisms for the windows? I much prever the manual crank to the electric motors, damn them.
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Desertphile wrote:

You need both switches in place for the windows to operate.
You will need to replace the drives side switch with the correct one.
No way to have both manual and power on the same actuator. Manual uses a different layout for the actuator than a power unit.
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On Sun, 16 Jan 2011 14:54:46 -0500, "Steve W."

Drats. Thank you; I was afraid, and also hoping, that was the problem. I have been trying to get a replacement switch for over a year but I cannot find one. The repair shops all list different switches than what my Tahoe has (which I noted in this newsgroup over a year ago, November 8 2009).
https://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks/browse_thread/thread/89bbf622b4be8011/e8973f47b8035599?hl=en&#e8973f47b8035599
http://holysmoke.org/temp/s1.jpg
http://holysmoke.org/temp/s2.jpg
Cannot find the damn things anywhere.

Cars were so much better 45 years ago.
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Desertphile wrote:

This is the 97 with aftermarket switches correct? Just visit a salvage yard and buy the correct panels with factory switches and harness plug.
Probably run you about 50 bucks for both sides with switches.
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On Wed, 19 Jan 2011 16:41:01 -0500, "Steve W."

Alas, I have no idea.

Unfortunately I am well over 100 miles from anything like that. Perhaps I should have done that when I was in California. Otch.

I put the passenger switch back on, and now the windows goes up when I push the down button.... on the driver's side and the passenger side. LOL! Oh, to have my 1967 Plymoth Barracuda back....
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Desertphile wrote:

Well at least you know the motors work.
You could probably get Dorman 901-084 switches and make them work.
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On Thu, 20 Jan 2011 20:48:34 -0500, "Steve W."

Thank you for the suggestion. I have a new Dorman 901-084. I was considering getting a momentary double pull double throw switch and just let it hang out of the door's hole.
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Desertphile wrote:

You could do that as well.
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I don't see why a little creativity, and knowledge of how the window circuits work, would prevent you from getting some products from:
http://www.gasgoo.com/auto-images/electronics-parts-822/1075137.html
or, someplace else. Knowing how the circuit works is the first step. Do you have wiring diagrams for this vehicle?
Double throw switches aren't necessarily a plug-in item. Some switches, electrically, open one circuit while closing another, for one purpose, and only close another circuit for another purpose. Not wiring things correctly, or the improper switch, will blow fuses or result in the "fire" that you mentioned at the beginning.
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(SNIP)

DON'T even try it. A double pole double throw won't work. The key to power window switches is this. When it's just sitting in it's neutral position, it's neither normally open nor normally closes as a convention switch would be classified. It actually has both leads from motor grounded. One direction from center moves one contact from the ground to the hot. Other direction moves the other one instead. Passenger window switch on drive door does the same thing, with passenger door switch being in series
Are we allowed to attach pics in this group?? A schematic makes is so much easier to understand. The passenger side door switch normally has both motor leads connected over to the same grounded poles on the driver door switch. Then there is a single hot wire at the passenger side door. So when you work that button, again one way removes the contact to ground over to the hot pole. So when you pull the passenger side switch off, your interupting both motor lead over to the driverside. LOL. I'm sure that made no sense without a diagram! But if you picture working the window motor with wires in hand and a battery right there... you have to touch one lead to + and one to -. Then, to go the other direction you need to reverse the leads. Now picture holding both leads on -. Obviously nothing's happening. But now all you have to do is move either one lead or the other to +. That's what the switch does. The body of the motor is NOT grounded. It is isolated from ground.
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On Sat, 22 Jan 2011 20:39:59 -0500, "In2hoppn"

Thank you very much for tyaking the time and effort to write all that. I also found an automated diagram that shows how the switches work. I'm going to use the mass-produced window switch I have that does not fit in the housing, and just let it dangle.
Oh, for the better days when car windows had a crank!
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Desertphile,
I'm not sure if this will help, but you might want to try the following links:
http://www.1aauto.com /
http://www.diypowerwindowrepair.com /
I may have missed part of this discussion, so please excuse me if this doesn't apply. Of course, the usual disclaimers apply, as I have never had the need to use either company and have no affiliation with either one.
Just trying to help. Good luck.
Peter.
wrote:

https://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks/browse_thread/thread/89bbf622b4be8011/e8973f47b8035599?hl=en&#e8973f47b8035599
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