proper maintanance

Hi all, My '94 S-10 blazer 4X4 is my first 4X4, I don't have previous records on it, but it appears to have been well maintained. It currently has 145K on the clock and came from a major company where it was a company
vehicle.
My tranny fluid + filter was just changed because of burned smell. When should I take it in for another one, they only swaped out about 20-30% to reduce the possibility of major damage. Also what fluid goes in the front and transfer cases and at what interval. I plan on using all synthetic BTW. Would it be ok to have my tranny fluid changes filled with syn or should I stick with dino until all the old fluid is out of there? When should I change the rear axle and weight.Will the front and rear axles be identicle in procedure and weight?
Not having old service records, I'm planning on slowly and surely changing all through the summer.It's kinda embarrasing having to ask this, but I've never had the $$$ to afford one before, so I never learned anything about them.
David
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proper maintenance Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sat, Feb 28, 2004, 3:08am (PST+8) From: NOSPAM@MYINBOX (David) Hi all, My '94 S-10 blazer 4X4 is my first 4X4, I don't have previous records on it, but it appears to have been well maintained. It currently has 145K on the clock and came from a major company where it was a company vehicle. My tranny fluid + filter was just changed because of burned smell. When should I take it in for another one, they only swaped out about 20-30% to reduce the possibility of major damage. Also what fluid goes in the front and transfer cases and at what interval. I plan on using all synthetic BTW. Would it be ok to have my tranny fluid changes filled with syn or should I stick with dino until all the old fluid is out of there? When should I change the rear axle and weight.Will the front and rear axles be identicle in procedure and weight? Not having old service records, I'm planning on slowly and surely changing all through the summer.It's kinda embarrasing having to ask this, but I've never had the $$$ to afford one before, so I never learned anything about them. David _____________________________________
David,Don't get your hopes up too high on a transmission with "burned smell".A burned smell to the fluid signifies serious damage to the friction material in the trans.Replacing all the fluid will often cause total failure because the new fluid will be more viscous,and may allow the burned clutches/bands to slip.Once they start slipping it's a goner.I worked for that large national chain and we would NEVER change the fluid on a car with "burned smell" to the fluid.We would recommend an inspection.Actually we knew all along that the tranny was bad once it reached that point.If the fluid has a real bad burned smell and is no longer reddish but brown in color,start looking for a rebuilt tranny.Incidentally,did they find lots of metal and/or friction material in the pan ?
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(David)

Dave ignore the above advice, it's bullshit. A burned smell just means the fluid is old and expired, and doesn't equate torched AT internals. Replacing the fluid is the BEST thing you can do when the old stuff is cooked to prevent damage. Drop the pan and check for metal chunks/shards, replace the filter, clean the pan till it's SURGICALLY clean, then refill and be on your way.
Repeat the above two more times at 500 mile intervals to get all the old stuff out. When I bought my current truck it had 107k miles and the ATF was brown and smelt like a skunk; still shifted fine. Flushed it out using the above described procedures to get rid of all the old stuff, and now change every 15k. It has 160k on the clock now (2 years later, I drive alot) and still shifts perfectly.
Doc

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(David)

the
was
the
'that large national chain '.......'would recommend an inspection'............................
would that be 'AAMCO' a.k.a. 'All Automatics Must Come Out' ????
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Re: proper maintenance Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sun, Feb 29, 2004, 3:31am (PST+8) From: snipped-for-privacy@mchsi.com (TransSurgeon)
(David) Hi all, My '94 S-10 blazer 4X4 is my first 4X4, I don't have previous records on it, but it appears to have been well maintained. It currently has 145K on the clock and came from a major company where it was a company vehicle. My tranny fluid + filter was just changed because of burned smell. When should I take it in for another one, they only swaped out about 20-30% to reduce the possibility of major damage. Also what fluid goes in the front and transfer cases and at what interval. I plan on using all synthetic BTW. Would it be ok to have my tranny fluid changes filled with syn or should I stick with dino until all the old fluid is out of there? When should I change the rear axle and weight.Will the front and rear axles be identicle in procedure and weight? Not having old service records, I'm planning on slowly and surely changing all through the summer.It's kinda embarrasing having to ask this, but I've never had the $$$ to afford one before, so I never learned anything about them. David _____________________________________   David,Don't get your hopes up too high on a transmission with "burned smell".A burned smell to the fluid signifies serious damage to the friction material in the trans.Replacing all the fluid will often cause total failure because the new fluid will be more viscous,and may allow the burned clutches/bands to slip.Once they start slipping it's a goner.I worked for that large national chain and we would NEVER change the fluid on a car with "burned smell" to the fluid.We would recommend an inspection.Actually we knew all along that the tranny was bad once it reached that point.If the fluid has a real bad burned smell and is no longer reddish but brown in color,start looking for a rebuilt tranny.Incidentally,did they find lots of metal and/or friction material in the pan ? Dave ignore the above advice, it's bullshit. A burned smell just means the fluid is old and expired, and doesn't equate torched AT internals. Replacing the fluid is the BEST thing you can do when the old stuff is cooked to prevent damage. Drop the pan and check for metal chunks/shards, replace the filter, clean the pan till it's SURGICALLY clean, then refill and be on your way. Repeat the above two more times at 500 mile intervals to get all the old stuff out. When I bought my current truck it had 107k miles and the ATF was brown and smelt like a skunk; still shifted fine. Flushed it out using the above described procedures to get rid of all the old stuff, and now change every 15k. It has 160k on the clock now (2 years later, I drive alot) and still shifts perfectly. 'that large national chain '.......'would recommend an inspection'............................ would that be 'AAMCO' a.k.a. 'All Automatics Must Come Out' ???? _____________________________________ Hey,all I said was not to get his hopes up too high. You were lucky,I,ve seen 5,000 others not so fortunate. By the way,ATF dosn't burn in a transmission.That smell is fried friction material. Fried clutches and bands just don't seem to last too long,plus there is often a separate malfuntion,ie.slow shift,etc. that will finish the job so I warned him that's all. ,
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Brian Orion) wrote in
plus there is often a separate malfuntion,ie.slow shift,etc. that

Well, my tranny has no problems shifting or anything like that. I'm not at all concerned about it, never had a tranny fail, and I was raised on old,beat cars. My parents haven't bought a new car since before I was born. I don't even remember my father ever doing maintanence to them! LOL
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Sounds good David
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(David)

currently
When
and
cause
it
material
chunks/shards,
refill
change
and
Hey that's funny? Can I use that?
I hate AAMCO, I was getting very hard shifts in my 1994 Chevy Z34 and a whining noise out of the transmission. I stopped by an AAMCO on the way home from work to get an idea of the problem. Well their professional opinion (from the outside inspection) was I needed one of their off the shelf transmissions. Only $1799.99 plus tax. I said see ya later NOT. Took the car to the Chevy dealer that I bought it from and they found a vacuum leak at the accumulator piston. Cost me $69.00 as that's the minimum they charge to look at a car.
Brian (Momma didn't raise no fool)
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Brian Orion) wrote in
Incidentally,did they find lots of metal and/or friction material

I forgot to ask and this idiotic national chain (which I won't go back to) didn't tell me. I could kick myself for not asking, I was so furious at the long wait time. I was told about 45 minutes with a 3:00 appt time. My truck didn't go in the shop until 4:20, then it was in the shop for 2.5 hours. their heater was an air conditioner turned to heat (Buffalo, NY early February, 20 outside), no coffee machine, no pop machine, 12"tv on PBS, no bathrooms, Women's magazines only.
BTW, fluid was still reddish color, not real burnt smell. Also they only changed about 20-30% of the fluid, to help combat tranny failure.
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